. t : . i », i ' . 1 _ » - _ . >- -- -» 6? S ‘ 1 .J l ‘_ ’ .>&5 I W é ' ' 'x “ w , ' 1" AVA-' ` _ i . "xi'l 1 r ' » . -1,, _~_ _ _ . ,,,.‘ -' __ " ` `.».~... ‘ . " - ' ',_, - '_ “»y-_j_.,_r';s ~ . - [_ _ _~_-t '>' 15-_ _ __;' al _,_ 1 -_ - ‘ "-‘ ' --Z ‘ - _ ...lg ‘ _‘ ,_ 4 ‘ ‘ _ 'Til i __ _ | ' 1__ ’,~ ._ . < ... -1, _-_t 9...' . ,_ _ f ff* ""i"§. ._-(sl-¢,,i‘.f. _~ _ ; .fs s . lv, _ /_ _. ` - '__ " -' ‘ W;-~ '_ _. ~ .§._._g_:_‘ ' _ - _ _ - - "_ i - - __ " .» ,_,, “_ __,___,¢___; ._._`~,_ _ ._.»=~.._.»_-~_--»_--_ ~.- _ ._ ~. - ~‘ _ - ' ' -_ ' - _~.».,~ __ _""_'o»'°’-`"_»"f_- .~,.‘ _ _ --J ` - _ _ _ ~ . _ _ .- _~-»»-.-1.-~f 5- . _ i -~ _ _ _ _ _ .- . ,_-_ _ _ __ ».,_ ., i ». ` - ' v sd-J. . . _ - -" =_»_=¢s=s¢.=#=== uf !\‘ ' ie 2* ‘-5.¥¢5li9i5-i“*1¢‘i\““l‘v‘5¢S%%§¥‘$¥¥¢&¢=‘¢t‘»‘*I¢&¢#r.1 :'. ' ~""“‘"» ' ‘ _ .~ . ' ..' ._ . - . - _ -. ' _ ._ _ '.- _ -' ..’.ii.-"@P.‘‘rvitrfrevrssrtaaaersiaaoovsseasos=tv¢=v_no'eee'ais"c'=vassesseii!-6.é'o`es¢'é1¢'s¢`=€s¢'e°?¢lse'vi"eee=vbrév'v¢`§vv¢'v¢`sE§-'c#nerve ns.~.La¢‘s».»,.r¢`t-'§'.”-?` ' ' steeper...-......_;f_,.,.,-,__,§,,,__ F 2\Shi0n Features For The Home Dressmaker I 1 `” " ” "ff ‘av'==':$¢¥¢=¥s¥=l¢$r=‘¢¥¢~r%f>lHI¢¢l¢1l¢sl¢i'¢5t‘I¢$¢£¢9¢~fi¢fir!¢5¢%4¢¥¢¢l¢#i%%#=‘¢s¥a’¢:‘¢a‘¢¢l¢5rv¢s‘r='¢S¢:’¢s?¥¢=’¢i¢5¢sl¢s2=?¢iE>ka’¢v¢s’¢::=>fa:=¥='¢=2%i¢='¢='¢frS¢¢l&d¢#%d¢a;:rv-._--"""* _ BLACK VEILS ARE PREFERRED Color Takes Lead for Universal ~Be. gun lll__mlMl=it _,rocks are Quite Unlike the Mode of Yesterday. ynmllnen Ars. csprlcleus; llsevss ‘er ` velour seyieu: Surely of Gllk Il wongrwg; woelsns Llmltsd. ug,-,.ry\\'ilere one sees new clothes. M gr,-l glance they seem quite like the mod.. or yesterday-and one resolves ,lm firmness to wear the things left over. One looks again, relates n writer U, 5,"-pcr's Bazar, and discovers a dun-»rl~|n-1- which lies not in the out- mag pai in a host of clever. artfully plum.-il details--and _one’s resolution mga on wings. yn style all frockn are slim and sim- ple-or at least they give that impres- sion. The skirts are of the well-known ah,,|,|,|,-" type. but they have all the ¢¢|||¢h|a and one nf the regrets of the bobble we used to struggle with so vnlluntly. instead of the uncomforta- bly close confines of other days, the new skirts are so skillfully folded and dnpotl that though the slender lines U, scrupulously maintained, the wear- er has -plenty of room in which to 'brave the eurbstones! , _ _ Waiotllnes are indeed capricious, for while some reach aspiring heights, others startle with their length. A few staid and sober ones insist on being normal. (lf glrdles there are a-plenty. If one would have the swnihlng kind _.und one surely will-remember that it begins at ilu- nornml walstline and ig draped to give the effect of a long. slender waist. Sleeves. always a law unto them- _ selves, are lnul! anti light ni. times. spzin only tl\ree~q|mrlc|':-. Some are draped onri some nro “l>ells;” some are brnded with fur and some with heavy ilialerlai. 'l‘hou|.'l| thc straight neck- l line is still much liked, distinctive coi- lgrs of fur will stamp a gown as un- mlstakably new. Silk is the mode. of course. And never were there such wondrous silk- en stuffs! Wools there are--rough homespuna, fuvetyns_ volanrs and jerseys-for mils and wraps that one may wear without n quaint. for tho materials 'were inanufactured and purchased long before there was any question of ronscrvationo The supply, of course, is limited, and the tariff proportionate- ly high. HENOVATING THE “HARD” HAT Home Milliner can Remedy Defects sad Make Top Piece Stylish ' l and Becoming. No-woman can well afford to make herself look "hard," and there is noth- ing that will do it quicker. than a "hard," hat. You know the kind, mas- culine and unbending in every line. Perhaps you have made an unfortun- ste purchase* of the kind. So these general hints on renovating may help. Usually the unbecomlngucsa of this type of lint centers lu the crown. which may he too tall or unbecoming- ly stiff, or both. The home miliiner can remedy both those things by re- placing the stiffened side of the crown with a softer material like satin su- _llque, which is ever so modlah tor hill .lust now, or with velvet. Usual- ly it is advisable to use the old “lid” of the crown for a ntay. Now cl! your new material of the desired height and halt as long again as the circumference of the "iid.” Gather it on a cord and secure to the latter. After that you can shir it both for :ie sake of shape and for decorative- oss. Another remedy for the harsh crown lumcllllyfnntl one almost universally h°°""ll|lll. is to 'replace halt the side of the crown and the lid with the mlm! .Vieldy material. According to _this method. you will slice off the tnp of thc crown und as much of the aids ls.wili give you u becoming crown lielght. Then gather the new mate- rial ns install. it simplifies the work t" '10 U10 gathering on a little disk of the former stiffer stuff. ` -_._.___ ll0VEL SKATING SET OF SILK ~ `- Tvm' 1 .c \ ff§fsi"` .'.’l"i -‘- ‘ i I ° . .;. ` sf' _ . ir -5_r__,.=.;"f,,: _ _.1 ___m____ ->', __ _._.;.; ;§._;§;_5__;;_ ____ .lv-si F "¥ mul' ll s decidedly nevsl and smsrb- ”° °""|'lI set of smoke-gray silk mm” with a erase ber design ef hulzusollle. The smart little list " *‘mllM|¥ rolled brim and I “Ill l° ll s llnishlng touch., ‘ m-_-_.__ .J Tboudelnbetg- 'f' °l sect Nm in black coin dots s eq ,ht m“;’:llt;v.'l£ts _ 3 és ~_ :_.__= _ _.:a=__.:'.j_; =- .f»_:= kay ' lu ran inns l The possibilities of the veil are pr-nc- A _ tically unlimited. Chosen with care with ...gal-fi.. to com, are and na... ,, France Takes Over a Fashion ln- veii has power to make even ' m ,___,m,,_, ,m,_,,ng,y __mc‘_§‘_€el>'“(l)”_; spiration From English 01° 0Il'i\fl' hind. e veil can make s ` |'|lSf0l`y. Wally PNIIY Woman hopeless, Pefhllhs the most important consid- |t;ration is color. Block must take the SUIT ad for universal becomlngness_ After that comes blue; but it must be quite _ “ dark blue' and Wefernbly Uf 3 901080 Cost and Stuart Collars Returned to undotted mesh The blue veil is b emma! to hlmide and b ‘ °` Favor and Henry Il Strsluht Loose runet! lik , ,md |s ,,,.,,m,,,r,.u,ly effective TDBSU; Gown With Loose Gerd Gir- zestlng fini-ness and clcarness ot' skin. l d|° I. w°m' Most trying of all though, is the whit ` 1 ,._,_,_ Omy she who knows her me tg New York.-1: is a long ery from perfection and has proved the hecom- awry H to Cmmwen' but “BMO” lllgfless uf the white veil should at- Wlllpi li. Bur brown veils for charm- ing red bends by all rneunsi ' As to size or shape, the unlmpeacb- ably groonied person may go in for thy ' |0118 fl0\\‘lIl_t1 veil, hanging loose from the face. But the average woman, if she would look her trlggest best, must iulve her veil snug. Unbeautlfying splashy scrolls of the ` all-'over klml are usually not the r-imc. _ of the carel`ui_ly dressed woman, no matter how modish the pattern. The _ Sllmc thlni' is true of dots. Dots well _spaced on a veil carefully arranged _ have il positive fascination. But you lknnw the funny side of a dot min- ' placed, dou't_ you? CHIC NEW SWEATER BLOUSE Garment Devised With Purpose of Conserving Wool, but Without Giving Up Good Points. An extremely serviceable and jaunty” garment is the new combination sweat er blouse, devised by some one who wanted to conserve wool without giv ug up the good points of the sweater, first made according t_o a pattern that opens down the front with fronts that ar. But the sailor collar is not made if the silk. Instead, it is made of wool >f some color that goes well withthe strikes in the silk. as are wide cuffs for the sleeves and a foot wide hip sec~ tor the blouse. 'l‘o pot it on it is sim ng to wear with the walking suit vvhere the additional wurmih under DUVETYN COAT FOR SERVICE This effective and serviceable duve- tyn eost will appeal strongly to many. Who can rsslst the immense besvsr seller and the "triple" peeketsi’ OF INTEREST T0 WOMEN Women have been placed in the dining rooms of three of New York‘s leading hotels to take the places of striking man waiters. _ More than 6,000 women served ss drivers and aids in the American Red Cross motor corps service. The khaki uniform was discarded and a new one of Red Cross 0xl‘ord gray substituted. The first girl “bell hops" in Ilon- tans have been engaged at a hotel in Missoula, where the innovation has made n profound sensation among the _ ranchers and cowboys. ' Of the 80,000 women enrolled in the department of nursing of the Bed Cross-700 have been assigned to the federal public health bureau. or to Rod Cross service in this country. | lvviss girl singers. sometimes sssl.lt~ _ gd by boys, gave street concerts ln the principal towns and cities to rslss money for s' fund for the comfort d the soldiers guarding the bvldb M Mn ' I' I ‘l _ _ _ _ 6' " :ion that forms a tiirht.-fitting peplum \ , _ ~ .`_{;`__.y_{ EQ ,ily pulled over the heavl. it is charm- ,_»_ , _ eklrt, and the wool is placed jug; _ _gt_ _ itunes. Already there is a gracious /-:i»_--lac L4; 1'. _‘-- q frivolityls historically foreign to PaNs. lih¢issiL__,_-----+-I--I jumps that length in seven-leagued boots and regards it as a trifle. Fash- _lon, indeed, asserts a fashion critic, -places thc t\vo periods of the world's history together without apology. She takes u bit from one and a slice from the other, and calls it a frock. _ History has been ransnckcd for three years for inspiration, strange _to re- cord, when one realizes that a few decades from now fashion will proba- _hly start in to register the impres- -sions ot these days. and throughout all the ages to come, if there are such things as fashions for women, those who build them will go to this era of world-wut' as an aid to _iaded brains. Possibly Napoleon was sufliclcutly an 'egotlst to foresee. that the period he !created in the world's progress would last the fashion designers at least an _hundred years, as it has done, but he 'might have been startled ut the fact. l ` if-A5 _.".» -_ ._,,. .-_ . _ _ . _V ' _ _ /._v)___ ...__ _) ...-_,Va "f U ~.». 5, _ lil-elmo-> K? I. t.;.__;;.~ i/f_» r»\ J-, - _ 15-_'£5 ff v " :I _ '_/14,.; _ _*_ __ .~"' ' _ a' i _'.">'.-.~._i ..~ fn" -_.1 ln n‘t“f>`f‘3f_. I ;:,,-- » ' ‘gi .ii-5' #___ rt.. .`f'tif'. I' _"if ‘ ' , _,_ . ,N " A TA .35 0:' - _ cl-‘” Street suit taken from`Cromwell's rule l in Britain. it is of dark-blue cloth _ with two rows of tiny silver buttons down the front, a battlemented hem, ` and wide linen collars and cuffs. _that, in n trcnlendous time like fills. which makes his mighty battles puny ect-nts. we should go on playing vurln- tions on the theme of clothes which he brouizlit about through his Martian atl- -vontures in other lands than his own. None of the designers have gotten ‘vr-ry far away from 'the Napoleonic era, und lhcir apology' is ihul inspira- tion was drawn from every source dur- ing the reign of this one man, and that 'ii would he tllllicult to find something which Imd been omitted. Very true. ‘ We Turn' to England. I ’l‘here was once a time, in the he ,glnning of the Consulate. when fash- lion in Paris was turned toward the ancient enemy across the channel and l».»rrowed ideas for dress. This was _`tl~»ne in a spirit of pt-rverslty by 'cer- ‘ tain sections of-society; but the Paris ‘designers now turn there in a diifeb ent spirit--one of intense gratitude and friendliness, and instead of look- l pig among present fashions for inspire- itlnn, knowing full well by practical :evidence that they are Parisian. Sl1¢ lhas gone back to British history- ` Later she may remember Mesopotamia land Palestine, and linking them to !Alienby and Marshall, swirl back to I Holy Land costumery. l At the moment she is interested in _eras of which she has thought little land cared less. it seems a strange ,thing that the temperamcntal design- ,ers of Paris. on whom the world de- pends for tho movement of the season in clothes, should revive the fahhlurll of Cromwell. Curious _inxtapositlon of ideas. None has ever arisen lu French history who could he likened to this Puritan. and we may find the reason for this singular recrudcsceuce in the pleasant fact that Cromwell wasssnd- wiched between two Charleses whose The Cromwcillan inspiration is new; the revival of those fiiNl\l0l1S’ VNC” were sdnpicd before the word had any significance when Henry I was king of England. _ln looking over A book of old costumery the similarity _shown between the frocks of than and Cromwell interrupted the pleasure-low ing Stuarts. Some one has said that when Charles If came ro the throng England with a sigh of -relief laid aside her hair shirt to_.~4l\ow that she wore tt silk one beneath. .lust recently there has appeared Hey. eral sorts with huttlcmcnted hema, n strange sign of those times, and n double row of buttons on each side of a long straight front opening. The _ wide linen collar and cuffs are added. | add one sees that it is a_ new fashion. 5 Not ao new, but equally Cromwell- lan, is the sleeveless blouse. or short tunic that our shops sell as casually as they once did the American shirt- lvnist. These. also, were battlemented at the hem, while ours are not, but they also showed the full sleeves of the shirt beneath. In those days the man chose the undcrslllrt in broad vellow and red-barred stripes. As we wear this other coat. the bat- llom-nrcrl one with long sleeves, fas- tened ai. the neck. but not below, the ' .~t‘i‘ct~t: is good. It provides a variant front the accepted styles of jackets. It is in-lile.~'s, which is a fashion the l"|'c|`it»il designers are striving hard to t-stalilish. The slim lines of this coat keep the widths 'from awkwnrdness and the small armholes aid the clean-~ clit look. Sinuous Hips of the Orient. it muy be a happy fact one that >- :Ivcs cause for rejoiclnu that design- ers have no objection to “bunchlng” the countries when it comes to fash- ions. 'l‘o put the oriental hill drapery alongside the coat of Cromwell and the chemise of' Adele of Lauvnin is legitimate business. ' All's well that once looked well. vnlgllt be their motto and they go on making a sartorial Tower of Babel, for if a costume could speak. this is what would happen in any representative gathering. The Orient is always too .s-orliictive. too easy of imitation, to escape constant usage; there may have been periods in social history when it would not have been possi- .ilc to persuade well~plucovl women to appear in the clothes of the Temple girls and those of the Hazaara, but we A blouse gf some guy Striped ,pk is _ dvr ,_-' _,' ._j ,‘- \lon’t happen to belong to one of them. We have stopped at some things in the last six years, but we have gone Soflatenoss has entered into costum- -ry during the lust two years, but. now io may see is return to license in cos- ‘anu-r_v that may make pro-war fash- ions appear aneinic. Lotus hope that "oy won't be foo llncontilleli. if there is a pleasing sedateness viill freedom from demureness and maliness, then we will see good cos- fold back and join in a wide sailor col- ‘ - ` ~_»_§.‘7"1i» f_`»2`~-'.lf‘1';" *""`- V"-_EY fl"- Ai, lr JEL X, 'r ,. way of employing orientalisln which :lie suit coat might be most welcome _"f_""`l°'-gf, _:r|‘-I-;=; cannot he objected to by conserva- vf frosty mornings. il-1°.-T"ll.~"'\"“l".` <1 2” l 1 ”*' 'F-'dg.i.'.-_ ‘-4 - lvps, even in the hip drapery whose .~_wnthin;:s are the sign and symbol of the Eastern dancers. ’- There is a tendency to combine col- --rcd sittin with black thread lace in the oriental frocks. which takes away the suggestion of the East except in the swirl of fabric that goes about the l-ips. The Square Figure. These are minor changes, however liiipomlut they may be to the mass of women \vho have no intention of winglug their clothes into every pr_o- csslon that passes, in comparison to :he subtle transformation going on in , l _~i"' it ~' L _ ii, fi* l -'l'V 2;;-J* ._ ffm- -` _ - . ____ _m - -§_ l ll. - .=-_>. \ _ ' _ ri _ -_-. 'je _ T - _ f 75°; _ .;_- im 4_*__;_;=._~_ A _>\ l ‘_ mg-.< ' _ A _ sg.. _ ,_-*_ -'-*T42* __,.,.._,_.-- _ ` v->_._r_._ 5%"- rw.- . _ _.___ _ *P _ 4 '_-; `<_-_,_,, “_.*=`;_ ~ 4 _.1 uni ,- _tg i _ e I Gown of sweet~gum colored vsieurs `showing the square contour fer which fashion is headed. The back ef the skirt is plslted, the front plsln. Undsr the squsrs bodies there is s sssh of Indian-red crepe. the contour of the ligure.' lt ls get- ting square. If it succeeds there is another blue ribbon of victory to the house of Callot who moves along I' mysterious way toward changing ths‘ fashion of the civilized world. When Cailot sent to this country those primitive garments without belt. or eurvc, cut straight from two pieces of cloth, or so it appeared, and sevved up at cach side, women simply uttered an emphatic negative and passed them ‘ by. Even that little group of extrem- ists which can be depended on to try out everything once, st least. were too doubtful of the experiment to put looney in it. And yet here lt is creep- ing in among all the best gowns from sud is startling. And this is sll the fur- ther we have' gone in dress. is the ex- elnmstiea that comes th-ae* . than nm some milieu :lst "¥...r..r_-_=-v,__. ‘_ ul I ‘in _"$2 .._.._-.-_..._-.__~__..... _-_ _ ~-~~-- - f f \ `.¢ .___.. _ ._ . __ __ --~ ---- , i \ lmportsnt houses and promised ss the ruling contour for spring. the 'way fe the yoke and spill for gust coats nu [Decoration for Frooks Promises i Wide Popularity. E' There Is No Attempt to Relieve. the _ 'Neckline of Evening Gowns When _ They Are Deeply Decollete. . ity this time il is quite apiiarl-al to ,evcn the casual ollservi-r. ~'tule.~» a _ fashion writer. that old incl- has come y into its own again and that there is a I revulsion of feeling a_~.r:|i||.~i the severe neck line except by \\‘op|~-it who know they look extremely w.-il in such se- verity. It is not espt-.»iall_v trying when the decolletage is square, bul when round, or V-shaped it takes a woman with remarkably regular features to _gr _ _Y._-Q-t -.__” l 1 ` i _An Oriental Freak for Dinner and j Theater, ef Bright Blue Satin and Black Thread Lace. The Bodlce is _ of the Latter. The Girdle le Caught _ by a Plscque of Colored Beads. - carry it off. This refers to day trucks. There is no attempt to relieve the neckline of evening gowns when they are deeply decoliete, as the bodice is rarely of heavy or opaque material. The introduction of an afternoon trock, which now means a frock worn for lunch as' well as tea, but not for _ the ordinary purposes of shopping or 2 patriotic work, with a deep U-shaped ' decolletage half filled in _with s dat; rutile of lace, has inet with sufficient popularity to insure a reasonable measure of success. and one hears on every side the expression of pleased acceptance with a fashion that gives one a chance to have the face soft- ened. ` Against this judgment there ere s host of objectnrs who insist that the severe neckline is smart and that the f other is out of the picture, but as soon I as enough well-dressed women adopt l the advancing method then she who is out nf the picture will be in lt. It ll merely a question of the eye. We are the victims of visual familiarity with objects. Otherwise there would not be that complete change in the fashions which occurs season in and out. nmslls line in GAY cotoas Woolen Hand Coverings Are Seen In Large Variety; Often Match ‘ Scarf or Cap. ,-1 One reason put forward for the vogue for mittens is that one cannot carry a mul! and carry a bag, and - every patriotic woman simply must? carry a bag these days. Another rea- son, and one that holds true of the woman of moderate income, is that _ fur is high and a new mutt' is out of the question. Then a lot of women are doing outdoor work who never did it before. They are exposed to the cold nipping air of moming and evening on their way to and from vol- | unteer. or paid work. They drive automobiles and "conduct" street cars - sud uct as messenger boys and collect bills, and for this work they need to have s protection for their hands that is more substantial than the kid glove or fabric glove of other days. Hence the mitten! The prediction was made some months ago that the smartly dressed woman would be wearing shaggy sn- i gore gloves and mittens and some peo- 1 ple shrugged their shoulders sud felt sure that there was nothing that would tempt the well-dressed woman sway _ from the conventional kid. Surely the fact that they had almost doubled in price would not have this effect on_ the,-woman who took dressing serious- | ly. But the _vogue has come, and Q vvhers well-dressed women srs seen' in outdoor sttiro there one also sees _ woolen gloves and woolen mittens. They are made in the gsyest colors, often to match a woolen scarf or cap. sud as the season advances they will be even more in evidence than they are now. ~ Lining; Ars Colored. . A notion reminiscent of the blouses _ of several seasons sgo, when many] colors were iransfused b`_v means of many linings placed one above the otit- er, is shown In some clover blue blouses of georgette through which red, csusry or petunis shows part of (Copyright, iIi8_ by McClure Newspaper ____ ________ lyndtcswi ___ -F;2‘!_e"-=- - -»=.i_'»--_ . - .~ - = ~ Mu mee tnoudht impossibly eta mhleusl ST l for Amsrlell women. __ Warm Msdlsvsi lleuss. ' It is sn old story to tsik about Fra 'KEEP BUIJY WARM. A D) _ ` doctrine of dress iut year were not Fuel Regulations Create Demand re nce and the medieval cuirsss louse. but it is s rather new story in erica. Those who preached this rded ss sincere prophets. and vve lil for Garmgnts That Are _ did not go into the exploitation of the thick cuirass blouse until this autum_n.i' ' CDilll0l`l3bl¢. ` after France had had eight months of» HEM/|ER FROCKS |N FAS|.||0N annie scheme oftlrcss. The necessity _ _ --_- _-_ necessity for wearing something in the "im-ry Semin cn" Among of house and in the street that is more protection than a wasushirtwalst. Leading Favorites _ Vsleurs, Serge: and Velvets Ars _ _ "M ' wear coats with nur 'kirlf lrlloira ns .\ew lork.-The zero hour may have we ` ` ` I Q ended for the army. but it sends a me "|'l““\` ‘lf ""¢"\"l`.V» “lid l»°l'0SP€0l! that are made of chamois, lnatelasse. ""`°"”l' ""`- H"’“"?-"-" ”‘*"-‘*‘-‘- l<'.V|quilted satin or brocade lnterllned streets and thin clothes served to re-l ' duce our vitality so seriously last win- ter that there are many medical ex-` - perts to_ rise up und any lhut the dev- astation of influenza was due to these causes. 1 \\'c were 'frozen by nature. fed on suI».~'titutcs, made mise-rahie ily lack of artificial heat, and our nervous |-esisp ance. which was called into intense activity to withstand these threo plagues, has permitted us to fall easy steady usage et the idea. k hi f ll » worn in tho House- "ere e nen an not aids to heat in with flannel. it is only under the ful' Now we-_ are quite enamored nf the r being warm has brought about the Georgette crepe. Chinese silk. hand- e house, and even though we may il as in the open, we like the pro- tlon of these new padded blouses, victims to the fourth and the worst plague that leaped upon us from the ocean last autumn. The war is over, but the cold a p. prosches. The soldiers need not fear the zero hour, but the American wom- en must feat' it, warns a prominent fashion correspondent. It may be that wo will get up cold and go to bed cold. We may cal halt'-warm meals in front _ of half-lleartcd tires, and have our be- ing in one small room, with a total dis- regard of the pleasnnter amenities of life that civilization has led us to be- lieve are permanent. 'l`hls is not pesslxnisnl. lt is e retro- -spect of nclunlities. None of us es- caped .suffering last, year. The rich I and the poor went down alike under _ the presence of intense cold and lack 5 thy and pauper went down under the linfiuenzn zerm. None were spared the presence ol' danger last. year. The tnnlllmilllonalro lived in one room and tried to_ heat. it with whatever sticks and stones she could buy or borrow. in _ the same comtortiess way as her sister of the submerged tenth. ' Warmth is the Fashion. Let us say that it is the fashion to wear .warm clothes. and the individual will follow the fashion as the customs of a country follow its flag. We movs in herds, and all the civilization in the world has not been shie_fo eradicate this primordial instinct. So when you go out to buy your winter outfit. sny to yourself that warmth is the fashion; that protection to the body by proper sppurci is smart; that pcliry. velours, quilted linings, high shoes, big neck- pieces, rnuffs for the hands. and even toot warmers for the feet, are the very height of style. To dress in transparent clothes is to show une`s self behind the times. To wear negligible costumery that hall’ covers the body at three o’cloci¢, dur- _ing u blizzard. is to show one’a self uilohservztnt of-the rule_.~' of the game. And not only must we wear warm clothes oil the street, but they may be necessary for the house. in fact. it la very probable that they wllvl be. There lsvstuall doubt about il. under the new fuel request, which is that every room shall have a thermometer, and that not a single ther|nomet`er in America F..-_@---1- --nnsu_ _ul Servies cost of nutris, with lam Brown belt and buttons of brown leather. it ls modeled after the' reg- ulation British cost, and is worn by women not in uniform se well ss those in uniform. shall go above 68 degrees. Now, y0u'rs untjust-d to 68 degrees in the house. Many of as are used to 80. and the majority of up will shiver for the first few weeks under the new regulation. of coal. _lust as clean and dirty, veal- l _ is llikes to entlorse; lin: |.lo:-o than thai, - L' `i!`_-- u A _,_ ‘ lr* \'_?__ ___ ~ ~ N "“_‘-U. ' _ -' i` 1 "LW-E - -"_ ` " ' / .O id. ‘ r _‘_\ _ 1' 1. ll _ '~_` - __ . “Ll y _ _ mm \-l .§~_- ._ , ._ _ -_...Q , l ill ll of lt fu ac th ill an du of by all is ily its s 9° bi of We may take as our only comfort that fact that this tcmperaiilrc is supposed ' to he lleulthfnl: hui.. mind you. it is only healthy when the hotly is \varm. No medical expert. however great, will _ _ I _,_ _ me "5 '" c"'W""°° "N" “' "N sc vor he-re and wear them with content. 'l‘l|cl‘_ei'm‘e. the clothes that are tc fort 'The American artillery ollcer WM, after the first months of _winter in France. ssld all he desired was s Ger- msn helmet and a British “vvsrm,” hu been echoed, ss far as the latter pert ' ritlsh “warm” worn by officers over there, and now dopted by Ameri- esn women for street use. it is made of bright yellow leather and lined with rough, undyed sheep- skin. It has espscious pockets and ls fastened with big leather hut- tons. , coat or the short jacket nnidt- ol' leath- » er and slleepskln that \'.'-» can stand the thinncss of the convcntiorial- wash ist, which has given us the best wa _ service for. nearly two decades. , ,P 'a he cuirass blouse puts many s sep- te skirt into Brst fashion, and that a bit of economy that every womiln gives a snug security against the wind and the mow, us well as thc chill a sixty-eight-degree sitting room. is an ornate substitute for the lW€8l6l°. Service Celts for Women. Those who design clothes arf- not lI.V6l'tiB [0 ll TIQEW 0\|t|’!lll` U) lllf‘|!l TIIWV el laws. They are ‘quite happy to supply women with a variant on the ceptcd style of winter co.-tumery'._ They have rung so many changes on chiffon and satin, #"1 “rt-pc and script. at they are wlllin: lo za in for VU- lours and angora. for skirts of h€llVI velvetecn. They quite endorse the idea of immense pi~»~<-e.~ of peltry. worn the hot,-.se as well as 0n_tl\e atreitts d they exploit at-\\ |_--pos ol' jackets that protect the i»~»