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__. ___i
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11( choosing s. raincoat, lst service
H “ig mimhiuty govern your choice.
5_5   wisely it is necessary
mn you “gems” acquainted with the
 m’ats`risls used in the make-
lln of this necessary asset to _the ward-
,'.;,|,',; yumnys changes do not effect
'gy{§‘.¢y'i5_ 9': raincoats to any lresl 61° '
tent," t'i‘ie“'usnel :neue being there!
liege, 'simple lines.-“ “ `
_ Each' season, however. _llrlnxl mln?
new materials or the rsinsi-wt ve-
l-i`¢"ty.» `,‘1`he new Psris rsincioaks src
made in a very tllin leather, which
closely resembles glove kid. This ms.-
terisl is rneae reins-moe: by v- special
process, and it is eitremely attractive-
gnjqeg ellis, it is so lllhf Uf ¢“¢“'°
that it can be worn without the slight-
est inconvenience. ‘ `
gum, of the l-eincoats of the French
leather are in lovely odd new colors:
e new shade, lmow|l‘s.s "violet monsll-
naur," is green-blue, a new red Whiitll
might lie called puce, and il vale twine
shade. “" ` ,
` li Q G
EVERAL new makes of taffetas,
 `||,5w¢¢-.proof, if not actually water-
proof. sre in favor for light wear. This
material was popular at the ileashore
during the Summer. '
The most popular fabric for rainc
coats this Autumn, however,-is mohair
sicilian. This comes in all colors. il
particularly serviceable. and readily
lends. itself tothe taioi-ed lines ot the
suit beneath. _
"Rubberised chnrmeuse is another
mnterial used for the higher classes of
rainy-day garments. This fabric makes
up into coats serviceable for other uses
than es protection from stormy weath-
er.
Another material largely used by mo-
torist and the ordinary traveling public
is rubberized twced which is not only
waterproof but is serviceable for or-
dinary wear when a long cloak- is re-
quired. It is decidedly swagger and sv-
cry "out-of-doul"’ girl or woman will
like it.
(iaberdii-le, Donegal tweeds, silk Can-
toll, caflt0n~cloths. Bombay cloths, cot-
ton poplins. shepherd plaids. bomespun.
silk and wool covert cloths, and cash-
mere are fashionable materials much in
evidence in the season's offerings of
ralncoats.
Q 0 Q
S INCE fashion has called forth three-
_ quarter length garments the lat-
cst models are cut in this length. .Some _
- -emsslirufs-'inefsiilsn' style. win. fznll
loose backsfotilers showthe belt across
the back and still( others are develop-
ed in Norfolk style. f
ln the full length coats, there is the
'slip-on gnrment cut on English lines
with raglan shoulders, and there ls
the simpler tailored cfcat. Many of these
show novel bolt tea tires, convertible
u,iin.rs and storm cuffs. One of them
displays a use of patch pockets while
nthcrs show pockets inset, with flaps so
button over on the outside.
Some of the more expensive garments
nrc semi-lined with fancy plaid siiks,
the same silk being used as trimmings
on the coat itself.
Scotch tweed garments are partially
lined with decidedly fancy, contrasts
ing silk, with buttons, reveres, belts,
cuffs, pocket flaps and large hood of
the same pattern.
Simple bone buttons, are used on the
raincoats often in colors to match the
shade of the material employed in the
melts of the coat. ` V
Openings with rounded corners, sis-
ter to the ubiquitous slit, are not ,is
Dopular ss those which preserve the
llrhisht line of the hem. '
'A few raincoats have the usual slit
at each side. but it,is not popular, prob-
0~_\1ly because it is for rainy dsys.
__.____*,_l___
ONE-END BABIES
0“°'!\\4 lBIh°s are smong the smsrt
accessories introduced for young girls-
d““°’“l' ‘°h°°|_fl‘°'i¢l- The sashes are
~'““d° "ml \>P°Hd slain or fancy ribbon
that goes round the wsist in three deep
folds aild ut the back lips over the top
ofa single emi-maae separately-of tile
same ribbon. One 'prbtty novelty ¢s|,.
sists of two strands of the sash nb-
bon set straight 'under the bstvs leon.
but gradually tapering- by mggm gf
fan-like folds to a sharp point st the
knees. This model is developed in either
plain, flowered or striped ribbbn, and a
'very pretty sash shows the-stripes com-
'ing at either side of the plain center.
while ‘in another sash, N strip of flow-
ered silk comes between two plain folds.
The ssfhe idea is carried out in a square
sash end 'whosef top. edge goes half
across the back of the belt. Very unique
is o trixglaend that makes a st'ral‘ghl
line do the left hip at the back and a
eisgonsi line lreinjilnfi-._ in »¢ne'»i¢ii¢
suit of the sestrs girdle.
» __ _ ‘ .
IAUE GAITEB TOPS
_ ii '- ‘ . .
Lace llitsrs are the`newest wrinkle
in toss for nne shoes. 'rhey are of white
new irish mesh everisia with spoiled
white medallions, and are fastened at
oils side'-of the ankle witll~s~'l-ow of
ist-ie, not lte,i»n.rl mittens stung
buttdnbblss fnbroidered in the lace. ,il-
niousli I is i-other 1 train. my
 'minute slismntisi. uns nnnse
many Q of wilitrss‘itis»-tops, ess be
easily Qelgssti. ‘ _But 'thu see .activ-
»-tionstiy ‘ nstyueemss' sua only .suit-
able Nltllft-till!!! of s 
tutns. "S ”  .  “  ""
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 prior vsitllzr iN _ uiiiowrsi 
 STYLE Anim K -s , _liiii
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The neon .lun is with ns sum. out
it comes ss the dnlntiest creation of
'chiffon lace which in no way suggests
the solid rotundity of its wire anoes-
try. The fllmy wired minai-et tunic is
wc-rn over a gown ot charmeuse or sat-
in and stands out stliiiy above the cling-
ing drapery nf'the sllirt. '
Paul Poirot. tho daring Parisian rsvo-.
llltlonlst in women's fashions. has in-
troduced this insovatinn ,ln many 'of
bill svenins gowns. A pretty model
suitable for the debutante is made of
white chsrmeuse with slightly draped
ulflrt. and a front slash at the hem,
over this. th0 wire tunic of white chif-
fun, trimmed with tiny rose buds, is >
worn. ‘ '
'1'he effect of this gown is very much '
like that uf .a dainty lamp shade,
s
,.
which shows the slendel-ist possible
silhouette through its trshsplrent
meshes.
American women are now wesrins'
this gown, and it is a. matter of some
conjecture as to how it can be prac-
tically adapted to every' diy use. Al-
though the tunic is made over a supple
wire it is sure to cause swltward mo-
ments.
.____.__§___..__..._
T0 WEIGHT BAIHES '
Now that ssshos promise to be so
popular this season, the idea which one
girl found very helpful in weighting
these long ends, should be passed on to
others. She took a penny and encased
it in the same color silk she intended
for the sash, and than attached it nelr
to the end. Ehe then had an original,
but very satisfactory weight for esoh
sash end. V. _ I H
1
I
‘lit /’
’ This _very dressy afternoon coat is made of royal ~blue
broadcloth. White fox fur trims the collar and cui’is.~ The vest
and lower part of the cuffs are made of_ black satin. The but-
tons are made of blue broadcl oth. ,
g ,
. -___ _________'
i , _
ii _
,___-Et-. i-
/
PRESENT srvuas sulisii
in Tile SHORT nilnl
H _ .
ERI-IAPS there is no one who
W pussies and worries more \o\'er
the questioner designs in clothes
than the short woman or girl Wh° I0
srdently longs' for the graceful lines of
her tail and dignified sister.
Bill. surely oni 'looking around the
shops this season ons is almost inclined
to believe that Dame Fashion had' spe-
cially this very same woman in mind.
when elle ,so thoughtfully designed the
new gown and blouse with its. loril’
pdintel opening; the separate waist-
coat; the always graceful sash; the
noticeable front trimming; tilts point-
ee eoilsi~‘sns the elm-minsiv graceful
ils ~ilchus
fri and . ~ »
. 'l‘he~r¢|ssd waist' line. too. is shown
on mlnyfytif the intent Plirll models.
and s* littlmister, in the season prom-
ises te rival the ions hip, waist seen so
rnucli ani-ing'1sn ssl-ly ii-ali; '
Each and all of‘thess‘ points shown
ln the newest design# belong to the lit-
tle women, slthoiign='sb_e‘1l_lould. excont
ln ms' sues. eosiftlie ions and unwe-
znlly clinging ' aeillleit skin. ,mf leave
the tunies snll»'ilestlees'~to her tsiief
hstei-,‘~wiio ssh so deli osri-y oft tneso
.w]”_  ,-»‘ ii. l~;.`_ “ `.
'Iii wn 6r‘ use desisned with
i e I0 
`|°e'¢~ nent epeninihshs- high sa-ill rislns
-in~-the lnorin ‘nleeeniises slisstnthsn
sms snsissnissws ‘sail aids of s
hint!-‘ sliiisstess rolls of ‘waistcoat
 .` .' l\ v..- ','..
when worn_ by a shortgirl lends io
make her appear tailer‘than she is, and
somehow _this soft and _attractive nec:
fixing just suits but face and manners.
The pretty sash. whlbh this your
promises to outdo 'eil"fo`i‘nier sashes.
when draped high at the waist, and l-it
fall *at the front - Dr’ left side, gives
ie the weerei- s decidedly teller ana
more dignllled look. 'The sash truly ba-
longs to the little woman. as does also
the attradtlve flchu falling gracefully
over the'shouiders and brought to a
deep V in front. » _
In fact, sil‘ this sesson's neck fixings
seem to become this woman of snort
stature. The colisrless blouse. which..
promises to *reign supreme this Winter,
is il reaimnen te the gm” in qnesnqnz
Cut in either V or U shape it tends fo
give the lslcltlng appearance cf height,
while the bsfsness of the throat -'is
iholt becoming tothe girl who cannot
stand s higncollsr. And after eil.. s
ceiisi- to lie stylish and trim looking
must be high and well curved. there-
fore, it reslly belongs to the tsll wom-
~ The sleeves. too. this year are par-_
tlculsrly, suited to the little woman,
for in ispite of the collnrless noclts
many of the newest gowns. both for
morning and sfi'ern'obn'wesr, show tile
tight flttins ions sleeve.
""dr§.p`e'd'.olff`each side of the front
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' This street costume is made of brown velour plush and the
vest, collar and cuffs are made
of which the ground is'tan and i
of variegated brocaded velvei,
he designs in black and orange.
»'l`iie`i'io'ck is finlshed'witli‘ it boned frlll. The coal is rl modish
cutaway, sloping io a point in the back. The skirt is slightly
~tbei=ccnler front rounds 'off at
:ind a,tuck from the left liip to
the bottom and gives a pretty
finish” fo‘~the skirt. ~ .
~. < .§.'DAINTY VANITY CASE
A ,A>da"linty`vaniiy case is made oi' niolre
§l1lt,"l _ldsversl of the lstest sha¢ieil~-
role. lavender. violet. llsht blue. sb-
 tqnl. liiiher and inn. inside is
on oval mirror. hung from ll ribbon. and
*a |i(9cltet"ln which is slipped ii dainty
" will-r' uri 'rho cam coins ever uno
i10 _li ~ _
fsstsns with either a button or bm:l.l
eii\',er clllll-
.._.i__ _.___ .-.___ ..__......,....__...__.__._.._...._...._._.._....__..__... ._____...._,_.__._.
ORNAMENT F08. SLIPPEBI
The very newest style in ornament
for evening slippers is a single strap
innae of n fnin ni eniin across the ln-
etop nnil fastened on the outer side
iiilder it diamond crescent. This looks
ecpccinlly well worh with black satin
siinpers.
_ < ly_lsrs1l`0s.rlss._ ' `
F ALL the duyl for which the
  child lives 'in expectsocy. por-
' hell nose requires so mach
||1»~=“\-'IW and preparation as Hsllew-
e'en. Ot course.` for ebllstinas there is
°M|w lhevoins. but in this sem
Mud-sreuiy by the si-i-s'y~nt things
f°f “|°» the lusrutions rl-em every-
where vans- the very needs of ~our
friends. Not so'os| the eve 'of All
Saints. This ll the ons festival of
all that has not been modernized sud
-how can it `bef The spooks offoneage
are those of the next and Halloween
is the feast of spooks.
Bill! Dossessing all the imagination
sind the power of make-believe that
grown-ups are supposed long ago to
have lost. children love Ha.liowe'sli~. It is
the night when to them seem real the
weird legends. the superstitious and the
foolish antics invented long ago; when
they half hope sud half fear to see
witches riding a broom. sulphur-eyed
cats sitting in front of a cold crescent
moon and gnomes and fairies dancing
on the green. It is the night when they
themselves, transported to a land of en-
chantment, become elves, owls, bunnies
or Bowers.
Q ¢ Q
A "REALLY and truly" Hallowe’en
Darty. given on this night of cu-
chsnted wands, must bear no resem-
blance to the everyday. prosaic, leg.
cream-and-cake, dress-me-up-in-white.
lace affair, when the boy is afraid of
the little girl and her ilnery, and she
is so careful of it that embarrassment
BDOUI the 8l‘BB¢°l‘ Dart of the evening.
How could the youthful minds be
flllwy-free to live the characters they
imagine themselves in the clothes they
are accustomed to? No, it is a time for
the extraordinary and the wildest flight
of fancy must be embodied in reality!
The boy who so many times has wished
himself an Indian now is one and bow
thoroughly he enters into his rolei The
little girl who nizht after night has
Bone to sleep much more a character in
a story than herself, to-night is Cin-
derella-we might say. as we do of
angels-“in all her glory."
They are living in a new world we do
not see, and some of us who are grown
up envy them their abandon. In Watch-
ing them ws mothers and sisters are
repaid for the trouble we have had to
make their costumes.
Let us imagine ourselves ut one of
these gay companies and how essential
it is that the rooms be as appropriate
to receive the spirit of the Middle Ages
as tho little mummers are to be one
with it.
¢¢¢
OMEHOW we have associated with
S the fenst the idea of the plenty of
Autumn. For once the refreshments
nrrive almost ns they have been gath-
ered from the Holds and it is right that
it should be so, for the jack o' pump-
kin has been grinning approval for cen-
turies,
Hallowe'en affords nn opportunity for
unique decoration and a scheme is sug-
gested that would be effective, as well
us some originally designed costumes
for children.
First the general aspect of the room
can be easily lost by placing branches
‘of maple leaves that have turned color
over the doorway. They form beautiful
silhouettes against the brighter light of
the next room. A jack o'inntern in the
very center of them also make ll stick-
ing combination. 0! course he must be
aided. A little way of giving old jack
o'lantern a more glowing countenance
is to cover his face inside with ll sheet
of orange gelatin.
8 ¢ Q
i-IE jack o’lantern is by rilht of
T Msn king of the feast. An enormous
one made of an entire pumpkin pieced
in the very center of the room over the
table gives him the rightful place of
importance. If there is already a dome
over the tttbie, ho can be put under it
and the reflection will lighten the table.
`An old custom was to Put the larseli
pumpkin of the year in the center of
the table under the lantern. Sometimes
they weighed as much ss a hundred
pounds and made the center of a column
of fruit, with apples, pears and great
bunches of wine-colored grapes built
into a mass around it. All sorts of
fruits and nuts can be stacked uP Bild
spread out until the mass covers nearly
half the tshle. Then, to give it a touch
of formul arrangement, a row of lal‘Ei'6
Spanish chestnuts can be placed ln sn
exact circle Outside of this, tho table
can be set with the necessary dishes,
but to hide the dish wherever possible
with its contents will carry out more
uniformly the ides. of an outdoor fees!
of the s rites. To further embody ‘hs
U
spirit of the gnomes and fairies, the
lights should all be subdued and mel-
low. g
Q Q Q
RANGES, candles and other decors-
0 tiolls should be without an illi-
pearnnce of precision and curious sur-
prises in favors hidden among thc fruits
and nuts ailord s stimulation to an end-
less chain of fun. Perhaps at any other
time the children would enjoy most the
rich indigestibleli generally forbidden
them, but on this occasion the simplest
fruit. especially ii it must be peeled in
one piece to start A lilms ssems com-
plotely satisfying.
As to costumes. one little girl is
dressed to buss right in with the loaves
that hang about so abundantly. She is
a fly-ilnd her costume is ingeniously`
designed. She wears n dress of black
satin nnrl nroiinll the short skirt are
flies npplitlueil out from black velvet.
with brilliant jet eycs and white trims-
parent winge. Two larger wings seem
to grow from the shoulders
°"'” °°?‘_‘*',2‘.l'.‘i_ii°..“_‘!‘.“
Tun ness is{eii`!»a!ui s_ ~ _ 
esp of lalsck *islbeiq 
creature even more _o  
growths about Ablmiis  *V
cunning ii¢¢i»sey`ei_tqui-.  'si' _
‘°‘°“ ““*' °° °°°‘ 
»n'lt'wiiicn railefiSs*\o"th¢ ' ' " ,
bonnet with its Pointed str# lillill 
pink velvet. ne new white ins sith-
psrs and little *h!!¢"Iilk'dlls¥s." " 'VV'
A rich costume suggestive of Autliiilu
coloring il lil Crlllfe lilldl' ll 
dress on the ccastoftlle lseditu-rsnssh.
The lliirt is  rllyllllitlll. 
black velvet A lchu of mousstlllll
trimmed with vsimcienllss' 
crosses to the belt. she wesrs s 3-
qiiet of old-,fashioned flowers, a msllvo-
colored api-on, s black velvet rtNisl
about her neck and s. dst stray Qllsb
trimmed with s isttice of mrrew 
volvet.isworn.siittlstooussidsf<
Ill I,
A COSTUME originatilil from the
same country rsprsseilts a giant
daisy. The green satin waist hold in A
skirt of white pleating. Over this sh
1a.rK9 petals of white silk. Small dailies
are fastened on the befall- Bin 
B white sittin coiiture. V 
The Holland costume is s. very s_ttrsc»
tive boyish costume for 'a young 'gl`rl.
The Jacket is of copper-colored silk, 'with
embroidered collar and cuffs of white
linen. The widely-cut pantaloons srs of
moss-colored sill. The costume is com-
plete with yellow wooden sabots and
grsy felt hat. _‘
Out of season, but with a charm thsf.
cannot be missed is a little Hisobud.
The costume is composed entirely of
T080 Detals, arranged one over me other,
The” petals seem to grow otit of' A
green palm yoke. The sleeves petals,
giving the real etect ot' the flower. The
round neck is outlined with a garland
of roses and clusters of rosebuds are
worn in the hair, ' '
¢ 1_1 -»
NOT so much a part of the decorsn
tion, but distinctly a ps-rt of the
spirit of the evening is s. joyous little
girl dressed in dozens of gay ribbons.
A costume suggesting old-fashioned ous-
toms is cleverly constructed of oblong!
of cardboard marked in black and white
in imitation of dominoes. He wears is
monk's black hood. Another costume of
abstract origin is of two enormous play.
ing cards. one in front and one in b `k
(the king and queen of spades). He Wm!
s. crown on his head and turned up politi-
G4 llillpers. 0! course, other cost\xm§_1
Ire so successful, such as Plerrot,°colui`p.
‘sine and figures dressed as marionettes,
that they are seen at all parties. '_ 
---4----~ _
-'eor.r.sssro~it il-ss"  ‘ “i "
NEW' IALL SUIT
A most attractive collar for the new
Fall suit may be made of white 
with designs embroidered on the n`t
with long, loose stitches, dons in trio
shades of blue. The long loop stitclsfl
are fastened down by two rows of ruti-
nlng stitches, taken across from sioeifo
side. Motifs are placed inside of the
design; these are held together by o_"t`-
line stitching and dots in the ligltég
shade of blue. The edge is buttunhoi
with s lighter blue and s line' of tile
darker color above. ' "
A little plaited frill of lsce com-
pletes the contour of the color, wilichtls
altogether a very unusual bit of needle-
work.
An attractive brosd sailor collsr may
be made of a square' mesh net, coffi-
munly called filet not and is embroiderlid
in applique. It is necessary to cover the
design with handkerchief linen, upo`_ll
which the design has been stamped; affd
after satin stitch work around the d§-
signv has been finished the work is coli-
plsted by carefully cutting sway the
linen, thus leaving the net on s bmi-
ground to the design. `
----4---* 1
NEW FALL sanalds. _~
Milady of fashion who is seeking fur
noveliies in Fall fabrics will have 'A
wonderful selection to choose from this
year. The soft colors which blend so
well in furs show to special advantage
in the new materials. Kittens' ear
cloth. a soft, velvety material, Just
what the name implies, is a triumph ili-
deed of the weaver's art. Drap de
nymphe. a cloth flhfle with the lust#
and drape f chsrmeule, chenlslle cl
which is rich, soft snd distinctive.
peluclie do islne bid fair to be some 6'!
the most used materials of the season.
The demand for soft clinging folds
and draperies this year has taxed tlifb
fnanui'ilcturer's skill to the greatest dd-
gree. The result from the loom is _a
marvel of art. even the stiff brocadi
of silver and gold, praised by our sri~
cestress of old, hill been transform(-jd
under the deft finger of the wesvsr in-
to a pliable material with s softneii
that fniis and drapes si the mo¢iine's
will. The brocsds of this Fall ls of.
royal richness, with s riot of color s
fanciful designs. One beautiful des
wus woven of gold and cisrei. the warp
being of one and the woof of the oihiiff
over the bscitgi-oline was brecsoee )
di-sign in plain olsret. The complete
effect was n impression of veiled
iight. `
___.....__§-_i
HAVE A WLIBTCOAT
Have s waistcoat for your Autumn
suit. All that you need is s yard and \
qnei-ter of sillt in scotch plaid. eiiecltedi
brown and old rose or blsck and whi
and this you divide evenly and join- '
tlln shoulders to a narrow strip Whig
extends round the bsek of the noel. The
applied pieces must brosden to wide
nnepra .-nas which button together il
il-ont center and make s. perfect vi-ali,
coat allot. °
.ra `\ l 
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  _ ~i.ooii our Foil nils new wi=_Eiii.Y l=EiiluiiE. Liiliasl Flsliioii nllolls
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