i ' , ' » ,
-it B _  _
Amateur 
.i . _ N, _  -,;>,l;_.'
Dressinaker    I
'  lr mer-weve solved s problem
. “_ --"¢5,_¢_e¢q\,,‘¢'h worrying us all the
-` .Normal-'tus son or truck mst
` spowklgd, .without fear of wrink-
liemr; -luiu..¢i_iJ~.- .v°°l<-°“° "““~ "‘“`
ideally -wlibn -tlllllr ¢ll°°° °“°“" ““'°
 _“vu #5 “void .fashionable
unless. bun u" nice pe°i=l°.l\\‘° l° “°
shesshtusdueverywhere. and Father si;
w'svs».1ltal1l¢’:t°"l¢ll°W fh°’“- W” "“"
naive sos-lends; to nut on ¢il=l`= fl‘°““'
looking even -though obviously inexpen-
sivsi- sallorea, who generally ll" “°"‘°;
thins on hand that can be utilises, so
out all old white cotton veils frock,
model* its skirt narrower by B°l1"l\“\f
souls of its‘ gores until they W0” d“’
most straight. out off the fravdil ° 5°
°,| R. hamand added a scnnt foot rudlo
made from the sleeves of the old waist.
Then she produced three Yardscf new
Japanese cotton crepe (white flow6l'°ll
with tiny pink roses). and made a blollla
having short tab fronts that knot at tho
waist line and above it open 0VBl‘ ll- Wd'
ice of plain volie-the front of the old
waist. At the back the flowered bodice
blouses over the corded~in waistiine
and ends in a square. very short ccatr
toil. Although the neck is rather deep-
ly rounded out and finished with a nar-
row plain voile frill, the small set-in
sleeves are hooked tightly and plainly
about th wrists. The effect is quaint
and smart. Louise paid twenty-five
cents a yard for the lovely white cot-
ton crepe which she made into a skirt
having a plain front and sides and a
back laid in four deep side plalts that
stretch whenever she takes an extra.
long step. She could weor it when
dancing the Tango and not be incon-
venienced. The blouse is really it hip-
length peasant shirt that goes on over
the head and opens hal!-way down the
front, thereby- displaying a flesh-hued
chiffon guimpe.
QQ-9
AT EITHER side of this opening,
thick cables of white cotton cord-
ing fall from the points of a narrow,
turned-over collar of white cotton Her-
cules braid matching the bordering of
the garment, which is drawn, in at the
normal walstline by a. wide belt in tail-
ored wllite kid. Straight, three-quarter
sleeves, set into dropped arm-eyes, are
trimmed with bands of braid running
from 'their lower edges to several inches
above the elbow. 'lihis dress cost Louise
exactly two dolior_ and its laundering
is simply nil. as after each wearing she
gives it a soft water souaing, hangs it
to dry in the sun ond than shakes the
wrinkles out of it. Etilei's frock of
 ____ `
-.ws
._...._~ -1_
ere-4-1
l
i
__/ .TM _
t.
ii.-
Over a draped skirt of white
crepe de chlne are two white -
tulle tunics edged with black _-
moire. The collar, cuffs and
girdle are also of moire.
s
 _
the same material his plaited' finely
sores; the -shoulders to form a yoke.
and would hlnl loosely to\l\er knees
were it not belted with s crepe de
shine .san made from un old party
t
.klgtruth  it white cotton crepe half-
tltting prince!! track finished about ite
nook ind elbow sleeves with wide frot-
ton Hercule). _It is trimmed with s row -
gg in-sid .ti-sph that stsrt from the un~
asf side or the hem end run to points
at the bale ofthe hips. Half-way down
:boss straps sts manned sezommek-
N mls “sim for s,su-an or No.-.ie
slick velvet" ribbon that is woven
mrgugn the ‘pst-tures and _terminahd
mls pig -bow at-the loci: ct the figure.
pq hunger this rrock. smr _its .sinus
Ms' been rdliiiWsd,.=is like wsshins o »
fsslie can us only any mu.. im-
.‘ _ .l _i _ -. -
_ -7 f 1 _-
'cause Louise made the girdle from a
lil! how from which shs was able to
steam the wrinkles and the rain spots.
`¢¢Q
MY "week-and -bag frock"' is a
_, " crinkled blue cotton striped with
double lines of deep fan. The upper
portion-sleeves and fkgqice and gh;
skirt as far as the knees-is cut,is one,
and its only seams _extend from under
ths arms down both sides. Inch wide
\\8bY Irish lace insertion (imitation) de-
UYIGI 01° Bllkhtiy rounded-out neck and
.> "~-

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_.av Q
 ~ l 7'
Afternoon frock of gretn
crepe with plaited tunic of same.
The girdle; collar- and cuffs offer
a pleasing contrast in that they
are made of bright plain silk.
the frohts, which cross four 'inches
dtom the base of the throat and overlap
s trifle above the waist-line, which is
defllwi by a-plain blue crlnkled cotton
illllhlwhoso two long ends. nt the back,
P0 Oulled under the top edge of the
e’¥ht9°"'h"*°h 1126? illieco of material
which forms the lower half of the skirt
“nu il Joined to its upper portion under
a plain blue oordins. A frilling of fine.
‘Y f"““°° W""° 1l_°l» Startins iuut be-
l°“"."’° Ulfvat at the edge of the over-
lianping len. front or the blouse, run,
dg"g°"°"y °°"°" "I9 WIKI. then straight
wn under the girdle and defines th
sl:irt's piacket tc its terminstin ol B
three inches below the blue cordllnp T'
UNB Ylllplihx surfaced cotton I b gi B
a ric was
only fifteen cents a yard, my frock ops;
even less than did gh
Louise, and father eecl»=?re:nt‘l1s;ni??:¢il::
prettiest one in nu
homemnde clothes. r new collection of
Q#-Q
AN2)'1l‘lI;:Ill£R feather-~we|gy,¢ garmem
_ °“°h °”° 0! as puts into
our week-end bog, || me “emu”
sweater- .ol loosely- knitted white wool
‘°PhV’~ THU" 0l‘iBlnated several year;
Bio' in Paris. have only recently cum.,
to America. and in some of the shop,
cost a dollar and a half each. But Mil.
dred. kllllllllk them at times when me
would otherwise be sitting with folded
hands, gets them up for about Mty
Cont! apiece. They have wrist-long
sleeves. come high about the neg; and
st the waist-line and- fit the figure so
closely that they can bo worn under a
snugly-fitted blouse wilhoilt straining
lt. And they afford nearly N; ,mwh
warmth as I heavy wool sweeter with-
out boina* a burden to carry, Even
fl-lh¢l‘ YIM 0l{B~ If you chance to en-
counter him some brcezy'morn|ng when,
ho'» etartinsysn u nshins trip, <iun'¢ im-
agine that we’ve ict him go too thinly
garbed. You lnglr _ho very sure that be-
tween hls under and his .upper shirt he`l
wearing sjkeicton sweater.
_ -*__-4-_-___
T0 KEEP A RUG IH PLACE
:Unless a rug is__vsry` heavy it is llama
to-be‘kici¢ed up on tho floor. uunl
so-iss 'to sttsei\...to #ls ends or me rus
will cling to the no shed floors wunrui
serstchlns' the - hardwood. Another
method is to lightly bsete webbim:
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Tunics are the vogue this sea- `
I
ly ‘
son and more of the beautiful '
garments, whose straight lines
date back to the days of Greek
Phidias, are to be seen than
ever before. .Marabou is com-
bined with the smartest of these
frocks and the fluffy confection
outlines beautiful skins most
effectively. .
This evening dress is made of
pale blue satin. The tunic is
made of -plaited shadow lace,
loosely belted in by ii double
sash of pink satin. The plain
piece of material over the
shoulders trimmed with brown
marzlbou is made- of pink chif-
fon., The sheer gathered yoke
\ .____._..7.. _
.._ - . _ .  .,\-*-1-
is of close silk net. , '
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\  V/ //  V119/ h
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_ \ .  _ _  / /2/, ' _ =`--~~-~~,~_~_~-  'r “ '_--WL ° ‘i `
“ ._ z __ _ ` "   ' //7 ` ` " ` rallufedsuiiul biueduvetyue.
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F one thini and one oi ly in this
world I run perfectly certain-
no woman can live. off the- fat
of the lsnd without distributing a iarsfl
Dart oi'_it over her own body, and any-
one who contends otherwise in slmllly
blufllug, _ _
we lisa s sn-luutn erossinz. met pious-
ant people and enjoyed three luubstantlai
rqeais e. day plus two snacks on declu-
s. morning houillon and an afternoon
tea~and not one day passed hut what
I promised myself that I would clit all
this out just as soon -ss we landed.
In the meantime. ‘I "|55 ¢'-' lJ9l'BllBd°
myself, much shufiinboard ard freollenl
constitutionais would certainly counicr-
act to some extent the constant tuck-
lng sway of unusual duantllfel 0! rlvh
food. '
Later, after a brief__aclilll=llll¢l“°°' Wm*
nie smsinh -cllmlm, 1 out myself off
with tho* idea that after we got ‘on
me continues iuinss _-would l>° dif-
ferent. It would not bs nacesssrv in
Paris, for instance. to stoke continually
gn keep out the--penetrating edid ss ii
had been in London. than too there
would 'be fewer friends to deluge \ls
with invitations to dellsl_\\Il'» 1°” Rm'
after-theater sutirrrs. ' -
It was somewhat contradictory to find
that sltllougil my English friends were
such "good tronchern1on" they were
quits as much interested in the ques-
tion ot rl youthful silhouette as we
Americans. In fact,it seemed impossi-
ble to be alone with women anywhere
without nearing- the suuieet discussed
and eschweetnsd on have ner pst tad
which she believed in implicit/ and was
always urging the others to adopt.
".0ne of the most unlnue-wal: that of il
particularly good looking gill who had
'luccseded in reducing her hbnornmily
under the ends _of `a rug. ` dup arms, She had been patmnising s
i ' i -"
By Mary .Stiles
Swedish masseuso forlquite a while.
much to her brothers amusement, when
|suddoniy_ho stopped teasing her and
became interostetfin her case, He asked
innumerable questions about the treat.-
ments and as .they consisted larlleit'
of sharp slappings he insisted that sho
could du that better herself. When lil!
complained that it tired her oven to at-_
tempt it he volunteered to help her out
and to her astonishment brought horned
pair of bed‘rccm slippers having- flexible
soles, With those he allowed her how it
would he possible to heat, a pretty- sharp
tattoo without bruising tilo arm; re-
ceiving the treatment, or tiring thc
nthcr. One of her friends fauched for
the'succcss of this -remedy and claimed
to have reduced har hips with it. My
own impression was that iv could bo
safely used anywhere except un the
bust. _ \
But to so back to the question of
"eals." . - -
_ Q A ¢ Q _
HN Tl-ll<;Si3i days I often remembered
the lectures which my ci'd doctor
had aiven me on the disas_trous`oi!eots
of fats;-sweets and stn,r_ches and won-
dered wlm ‘he’woul<l‘s»y lr be could
see tho amount of salad and pastry I _
was consuming. Sometimes. I -question-
ed whether one could really -bc any
worse for me than the other, but down
in_my heart -I must-have-known that my
pet.wesJmess -for salads dressed with n
rich -mayonnaise would be my undolns.
'there esn'ue no 'question but that cllvu
oil puts on flesh quicker than any or
tile other four fats--butter. meat fat,
cream and clioese.-_althouglr the rich
:arts served in such tempting variety
in everyprivatc house and tesshop in
the afternoon, must have been A 1210.55
_rival combining as they did sn over-
short pastry with I swcdt. l'i¢h llllll-“"1
or fruit filling. But .like the man in
the opera "t'hs worst of it was I liked
it" and did not seen to have sumclont
will power to refuse any of these 500'!
things. It was as it both the flesh and
the spirit had gone completely back
on me. Indscd about the only con-
rointion I 'nad was the fact that I was
not estins our--pet American fsttener-
hot bl-sad-in the lnornllul- N0 lriildlo
cakes loaded with butter and msplo
slrup graced the English breakfast table
you can rest assured.
Don't for a moment think I was
ignorant et wnat the effect of all this
u-0nla‘be or that 1 uid not resins that 1
should get down to a "maintenance
-list" of lean white meats, plenty of
vegetables. -greon salads drcssedmoreiy
with lemon and salt. and no thick
soups and rich desserts. just as quickly
as possible unless I was willing to tslto
the fattening consequences.
Q Q Q
How 1 aio leur for niy nies uleo
basliroom at home with its lull;
row cffnsst little white bass of Epsom
een in the cupbssrdl it ls s||'u.-ull
enough to argue that I could have kept
up such a dimpio treatment nnywlioic.
but in.spite of the fact that -wo had
rooms at a good place and wcoit-clldcli
with delightful people in the suburbs.
I had nothld didst-snt hath slsoe -leav-
ing the steamer much less n redlicini.:
,cne. To be sure. my "bawtn" appeared
with-alarm-clock regularity each morn-
ing,” but in its hat shaped tiny tub it
was a parody to n good American.
Neither had I ever the heart to ask the
maid- to bring more and hotter water
when I knew that she had first to
heat it and than csrry the jugs up two
long hisht of steps from her basement.
hen
- _B-.llyingl
Furs
iiii suiitlo charm that lies in
fine fur and the exquisite frnnie
it :lffonla for the features is a.
‘hills that has found the profoundeet
recognition long ere this and equally
well-known is the fact that thcre is
positively nothing that will impart
'Sreatcr comfort in cold weather than
fur.
While nil furs are worn, still they-B 3,-o
BOME. which .ure more in style glmn
others, but the popularity lasts rr gr(-M.
er length of time than that of is (avg,-|¢,,
style of garment or hat-three your-5
generally: one in which tho style wm-its
“Self UD in Public fnvor. one year where
they acquire such dimensions, as gg no
a positive craze, und one ln wh.cn gm.
decline takes place. l-Inch year brings n
new favorite. nnd tho consequence in
that tilerc are always three it-ndina:
styles in furs, tho one just bcginnmg
tn bccolno fashionable. the other nt
its point of culmination, and the third
slowly hut surely lxoing out or f"5h|u,|_
The wolvnn who is wise will buy hm-
furs ill that stylr that is just comini:
'll. thus ilelllg cv(-ll tilc most expensive
\\'il| slay In iivrfcf-t cunliition for it
irrcntor pcriorl of time.
Ono is always on the snfc side when
iluylnlz mink or sahlv, for these two
fllfl Wi" hlrllly ever loose their
"\'cstir¢o" to such an extent as to he-
rnme parse.
The llltlvr pertains to the most ox.
elusive nl' nil polls. and is nvcol-dinzly'
lllllh l\l‘icf'rl_ 'l`llo host irrndc comes from
the Canrnus Ma\mtr\`n in Russia nnd Stu
value is six times tim! of the so-rniir--1
'7 __ “"°""' 'f“l'~ 
'.8-._ .  __ ._.g ' H;.»5,,}._ .H ` _.; .. I  .,» ._ .. . . . .i.,..J .._.. ...'_.~. .. llwiutslv exouillheblono¢.IllUl`ll_9r`
` V ... ,_ _,,__,. _(J I . _ . ...._ ..,_. . ~_.., _, _ _ V po! ” 'mlmtaa In ‘ny 
‘ ‘ ' . “J "¢.u°ln.uelm»s\»»n¢_Ils\¢°s'.__ lil*
i
Ulvlllh this. too  ik'
priced. The domestic' 
Milli. in the lnestiervlillwfladivorr
tu- from pcpladidk ths\&tsie¢0ct el
the reel Russian article. ` '
11 is _uw inmozlu.-:'uur qc awww
_ins meds mm 
tailed cat. cuddle( \~lelp'U_§Qli¢gl i
In mink rur. the but uueutiii
Eastern mlulr,-_q`ss,¢hqnp MM
high in price, it is u ll'¢lt (GI DQIO.
accessible than ssbis. The lmiqtiqpqot
this fur src various, and t|lU.Y"l@4ld0r_
9. quantity ol diisrpng figs. 
Russian. dyed_mini¢, whielmin '@1112 js
ltiilllllllf W* #he .fur ct ass _l\‘0¢ll,oi~
Italien marmot, dyed so mst-the im-
itation is really very clever. The
darker stripes are pmduollx lrlth the
paint brush. and will wear ot. in the
<‘-°“fI°. of time .Brook-.mink su¢_--Iss-
anese mink is mule of tht htrio!
vllllk felt- ml bvilvnowvssvrsmsre-
I1 I .-5.
lm
I/~
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The three-quartered 'cutaway
coat has collar and sleevesfbord-
ered with skunk, while .the-"dow
ble revers are of yellow broclde.
pared so that the reeamhlanpa W1th~Utl
real Eastern mink is so close as lo
even puzzle experts. -Them than is
another .king df mink. called l.fbllldsd"
mink; this is real mink fur; but DIMM(
many times, and dyed so -that the
stripes are uniform. It is much cheaper
than Eastern mink, but will not will'
half as well, the little pieced sections
beins-apt to rip apart, and to-become
discoiored. 3 » : __ -
‘ Q Q Q ”
LACK LYNX -is one ot the mod-
B eratcly priced _furs which owllmto
its silkiness and its beautiful Jetty blpck,
stands high in the esteem of matw, In
this. too are several grades of the ssai
article. as well as lmltatlonl so pon
feet that they arc hardly less bslllliltxi
than the other, and-sometimes not sho
cheaper. But their hair- is mute-_ s
little shorter sad less dense and-ethis
is what distinguishes the .Lynn qui'
from the real Lynx's tus. _» _ r
Of great softness and s lovely enemy
white is the real ermiae and particu-
larly beautiful -it looks when its dpli-
cate tint is offset by -tho £1009. blank -
little ermine tails. which gt~ad\;ally~~hc-
come white and towards the tim _chldc
into s clear lisht ,sulphur Ilona White
weasel is very frequentlyc subsltutsd
for ermlne, and with such exoeiiolxtms-
suits that many rt _woman who colmdlll
herself a thcrfrish connoisseur or Lure
has fsilon victim to the decerrson, with
out ever finding ,out about rt. luohly.
for her to ilnd out that hier knowledss
of fur has foiled her, would surely- I-530!
her not a little. . . - f. _.
_ Q C 1
H111; fox’sn£f silver fox arc nry
W highly thought of, but in nine
cases out of ten they sro only imitstions.
The white rox is oopisd in Angers sud
Thibet fur from Persia, and lt must bs
admitted that the imitation is not in-_
ferlor to the original in-ibosuty. How
ever, when exposed to the dimpheil of
ruin, me long white heir wus become
very crinkiy and curly. ll it was wont
to be before the Bombing and dying
process, and unless it is inlmeditteiy
submitted a second time to thy lbrocoss
it will stny curly. and expose the coll-
terfeit. - .
Of all the mnnv pelts that pllil as
silver fox there ls probably not one on
justly claim to the name. &’ho|~g\msy _
be one caught in the Drain" sf wg.
:ary or the Russian "stisppsn`," inn
this happens vss-y,.lvetl» il\Qy, gg ‘
some museum or collector Would nor In
the opportunity ot.-aecu& -.sign l
miraculum slip by, but purciillc it, pu.
ing its weight in sold. 
_ g..‘
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