H
*D
“.
ggi
-A  88'.. ,mn D’ ALL" THE CHARLOTTETOWN GUARDIAN lomnuo lmar
awe fa Go lo the Devil to See the ,
0P¢f4f10fi.'* Which Is Not is Torlurmg but an i
fo'
as
Instructrve Er erzence as is e ~ '
P . Quite Effectrvefy Shown t~,\}\i»» ol J 1
slit., u “-"j1f"“..*~
-. .V-4
Q
-~.,.,.....-
mass. than leaving the upper part, which is to he
the tip ot the BIC. IIC# tilt!! the lower part, which
is to be the brim. Qlilt skill is required to adjust
the air dx-att in the machine no as to mek; ju" on
fiiiht distribution of fur.
But thu newly termed body is now thrice me ini-gg
for a hat and thrice 000 loose. It must be shrunk
and Uzhtened 'I dont think the lady will can to
see the shrinking" laid the guide. ‘The process
“KGB illace in I. big wash house, vary damp and tuli
ot hot air. it might spoil her hat.
G0 Weld." shi YBIDDMGG- “T|1ere's s wet wea h
el* guarantee with this hat, and I’ve had a large ex-
D race with hot sir",
BY the "devil' the fur is picked by the blowing
machine it is cleaned thoroughly and made ready to
be formed into felt. Zlfho blowing machine is a box-
llke contrivance thirty feet long, divided into six
Sections, more or less, with windows through which
one can look, A Workman feeds the fur upon il
HIOWIY turning apron, from which it is passed be-
tween a pair ot rollers. In front of the rollers-we
are “DW Betting the oiflclal description-is n. swiftly
revolving picker that teases and loosens the fur, the
Ilglllcr libres failing upon an apron that carries
them to the next section, while the heavier sub-
stances, the hair, pclt and dirt, fall through a space
between the apron and picker. Thus treated in each
section and constantly becoming cleaner, the fur at
last leaves the blowing machine ready to be foiled.
For the initial stage of felrlng they use a large
apparatus, requiring considerable driving power. it
consists of the following parts ranged in the order
named:-A wide ollcloth apron, pair of rec-ii rolls,
picker, metallic drum with small blades running
longitudinally across its surface, an open turn table
and an exhaust tan. It is called the forming machine.
It works on this wise. - ~
'» - ff ,,-'.»..u`~ QL)
iColn'rl;:ili. liJl0, by the New York lleraid Cn. `A|l rimhis reserved.) _
- New York, Saturday.-
ITIJA A.\'GEl.lC.-\ went with me that windy
March day. She decided suddenly. It was all
on account ot’ it remark I made at breakfast-
une oi' those remarks that just slip out and
~ ‘ iwcil n lot of v.\'plninlng afterward;
"You 1-nn go to illc devil, Ii’ you like,” said I, "und
l'd be glud to have you." _ *
.\'s-\-or shall I i‘orget thc look she gave me. She
has gray eyes, has ,luiia Angelica, with the slant of
the lids that one notices in the orbs ot s tigress
when cilnilengcll and abruptly attentive.
Aa m~arly as I can recollect sho had come upon an
a<l\-artisetncnt of n spring hat, some sort of Paris
iomtuntion; had murmured something about having
oecn-n good wltc, saved my tnont‘.Y» sewed on my
buttons and bosscd thc cook amicabiy, and had asked
me if she tlld not desc:-vc some reward. Conversa-
tions oi' this kind I always try to avoid. No matter
where they begin. they have only one end, and every
married man knows what thntlis, ,So I replied cau-
such devotion, and imngincd I had sidetracked the
subject with more than my usual skill. But I was
mistaken. '
"Very well. then." she rejoined, with u rich under-
tone of cxuiiaiion, her manner suggesting ln u, strange,
simile way the pose oi' an animal about to leap.
"You may reward mc now, and I’ll make ii: easy for
you. I want-I‘li tell you what I want-I want: you
to buy me one hundred spring hats.”
It was the audacity ot the demand, the mingled
amazement and terror born* of the suspicion that
she had been attacked by hatltis, the need of checle
ing her instantly in ber downward career, that
prompted my remark about 'her going to the devil
and my being glad if sho would go.
“Explain yourself, sir," she cried, tiamlng up while
I froze.. “This is the iirst time such an expression
ever was dung at mc." .
Abd then I told her, in ns many words, that the
devil I had in mind was it machine used in the
manufacture of a derby hut, and that if she would
'go with me to ri factory lu Brooklyn I should be
happy to have her :ee it in operation.
That was n lucky diversion for me. In ten mln-
utcs we started. I noticed she had donned. her latest
piece of headgear. :\ malines toque. “Of course I
couldn’t think of going to u swell hal: place without u
decent chapeau," quoth she. “'l`hese people are so
critical, and, though I nm going with you to the
devil, tI>‘=';e’s no reason why both of us should look
nits lt." v
In the subway train that took us to Brooklyn Bridge
station, elle tell to studying n\eu‘s hats-<derby, alpine
or tourist and silk, and the vm-tous shapes, too numer-
ous to mention, and the way the men wore tb0n1-tlit-
ed, cocked, jammed and otherwise, During the stop
ntl Fourteenth street sae became philosophical. and in
this veln:-
"A innn’s hat and its uses, sentimental and sacra-
mental. Toss it into the air, and the mob says you’re
happy. Thnt‘s the comedy of the hat. Raise it to a
wolnnn, and she thinks you'rc polite. That‘s the
farce. Pass it around for a friend, and you do an
act of charity. 'l‘hnt‘s the melodrama. Go with it
in your hand outslretclicd, and everybody knows you
are nt the end of your rope. '.i‘hat’s the tragedy, yes, ,
the rt-ul tragedy of the dcvby.", .
with t|,ig,_of Lou;-se_ i agreed. but reminded her that
our itnlnedintl- purpose was to (ind out what the
derby was made of and how the materials were
\vorketl into the correct shnpe.- Soon we reached the
tsetory. in Nostrand avenue. near Flushing avenue.
Though very spacious, it ie- not the largest In the
trade; but it is unique in one particular. Probably
it is the only place at whir-it high grade hats are
ninth- where the entire process of assembling the ma-‘
ici-iuls~ is carried on under one set ot roofs. so t_o
spouit. ,I~‘rnm A io the Dunlap derby is made right
titers. and almost wholly of animal matter, the only
vegetable material used being the cotton back of the
g|||.|l) linlllf. < ‘
.-‘ ‘ ' Socrates and Lincoln.
battered into the oiiice ot Mr. Charles E. Keator,
nulniiger ofthe works. we n\vaited his "arrival in ll.
pimtsiint room' with the atmosphere ot a Fifth avenue
but stormjnius a pretty girliandjn vase of iiowers.
As the glance of .iuiln Angelica tlltted froin person
to ~pera\»n.~ from thing tu thing. she‘made a running
comment. its \von'icn will. -' ' ' ~
‘fiaook at. this!" sits exclaimed.: "How odd. Bee
here a reprint letter ati Abraham Lincoln and an
.' ,V _i,
~
u
1.1 )`
,¢»‘» o, ,»
' ?\T¥‘°"}zt'
it f\’ i
“'01” U10 fvrlnlnz machine the bodies are bronfhf
to they battery, and there each Workman isles. sly
three at a time. spreads them on his plank. cprinilk
them with hot water, using a sort at scrubbing bmah
rar this and tuning patted don the dim-null
vurrrfroids them ta u new and rolls them carefully
'.i'ben they are unrolie-d, unfolded opened out. exam
ined again ter imperfections, such ul (onlin mutter
of any sort and particularly streaks on the errant!
These streaks, known technically as 'lightning rods.
ure the chief bane of tin- manufacturer in this branch
of the business. according to Air Keutor The idui
‘sizing machine’ is out. that would shrink I D06]
without folding it
.in spite or all the cleansing and blowing mo e or
less hair rcmuins lntermingieii with the fur. Rivlim
the hat body, now sluunltcn pt-rhnps ilfty per cent, it
coarse appemunle 'fo get rid of it the body when
diy is gh eu to a uoikmali called n 'shaver' who
Luis oi! \\lih a rn/ollllw Lillie tile hulrs that stick
ont and pulls out the othcts. As shining leaves the
felt more porous than it was, the body is sent back
to the buttery, or plank llonse. for n second shrinking,
this time in much hotter wait-r. Sizing is a very hot
operation, and the \vorl;nn|n protects his palms with
wood or lcutiicr slili-ids.
Nt-xt comes the stiiloulng. All moisture having
been rl-linivwi i’rom the bmly, the luttel’ is treilied
with n solution oi’ .siwlinc <il.»~siilw-4,! in niqoiwi, called
“wine stiti'i.-ning," very s-xpt-n.~‘l\'c mul only used for
the high grade dt-rb_\'. 'i`nl;lu;__' n Lvruril, about 315
int-iles, a \vork|nun rubs tin- bully with the solu-
tion. so that the slicllae may inf-rust ull the iilrrvs.
rolling thc lnnly mi :\ lnnrlilc- sinh its lu seoutiri sitlllli.
.Win-u illc alcohol has 1-\‘:lpo\':\li-il and the ta-il. is`dry
ille lnnly is llc.si<~<l \\llI\ oilu-ls'~-in plies oi' at do7.i~|i
sbt upon pins in at box; the ilox is ciosi-ii_ live stenin
is lol ln, lilo sin-llnc l~: |l~p\l|l<-it nun in-nwll |n\\':\r\i
from tin- surl'ncl-_ :\|'i<-r \\l\l~-it tin- holly is dlppe-tl in it
sollltlim oi' born,\' or .soiifi nmi limilly in tcplli water.
where it llcs till ulltnll llwwes are gime. 'i`l|\- sllilutllilg
docs noi' rcllilvr tin- |»oll_v \\'nl\~l'|nn»i. but unless t'on~
tliiclvd \\'llll 1;l'c:\t cure \\li| lui-:tn :l in_\:l\}' loss i0 i&
iunnufncturer.
\\'|»rl<mcn now (ako thc lnnlit-~', plnllgi- lin-in at I
brnttcry in boiling watt-r :tml .~l|:|pt- litem, ons- nl »\
tluu-, ova-I' bllioks sllzlpl-il likt- |l:|i.~, till- Ilotly now look-
ing like liwlil ,'_'l-:lr and living.: rl~:|1l_v to iw tiyl-ti.
lictbrl- the ilyo can he npplivll lln» hat lnu.~'l be left
for :lu hour in :I solution of, .~;n_\‘_ lll<°llt'¢»lm\l\~ oi' poinsli
nm] l;\rl:\r, 'l`lli.~' is milieu] "|nor|i:tl|ii|1;:" null lirevviill
tho 1-olorlnc multi-r from “1.'oiul: \\'llil" in the init.
Various |\t<\1'<i:ln:s \\'lll| lin- saline ci_\'<» sillil’ _vlvltl rx
vnrlcty of ~~t,lor,<. _\ good black <-ru be mania- \\'lll|
li\;;\voo<l null :\ silmll elllnlllily ot’ mzllltirr. 'i`liv lighter
lilo i`<-ll ilin in-ltor ilu- <|yolu_f:.
(luv elvrby is :\lni<»,<t vompll-io, but not quite .-\
w¢,\rku\:|n inkcs ll lo n all-nn|iu;; table. \\'i|crc are iron
pot.; throu/Zi: xvifvh |»;l<.-»~_~ live ,<ii~.-im. lla- stvllllls the
hat. hulls lt over n lllowl: so :ts-in ,Jvc lim 1-rmvn the
iiuni Silatpc, :\p|.~iv.~' at l~i»:.t ot' sl\:llI:ll~ llis1<ul\'i°\l In nn
niknli to the insiili- lu sll'v\lgli1<\l\ \\'l~;tl; |»l:|»~\-s, ilrivs ll,
pulls ii' again over the blot-l; null |:-oils' mtl \\'rinlti\~s.
The r;t'r|W1i :mil l,ri'ln| arf' rnillnfli wllil illlv su..Jpn[\|-r-
"po\|uclu|_')" they will lt. :ml tin- |»wn-ons is ||n-<'lmn-
lvzil--.=lu;:i~im_' luncliiul-s rl-m<»\|~ tin- long nap null a
ililic i\iln'lr-_;t|\l t-\‘<-its up tile color and leaves tile
whole :ls smooth as tiegsltiu.
,.. \ J
S
extract from one of the dialogues of Socrates. What
tzmg the Hat
in the name of all tllat’s strange do you suppose they
__tlous}y,_,_t_|;at no reward .could be large .eno,\x£h__,f_or____a_“__4i0mg in a but mem_ry?,, ,,,,,
Sure enough, on thc well near Mr. I\eato\"s desi
and so hung that cvcry one who came or went must
see both, were the tokens of-the great American
emuncipntor and the great; Greek he intensely all
mired and profoundly studied
"Search me,” was my answer. "I lm\'cn't the least
notion why." But»she mused an instant; thou softh
thus:-"Don't you remember those |‘:tintln;_fs oi' l.in
coin in which he wears nn cnol-moss ‘stove plpe".’ No
doubt it was one of thc early Dunlnpsj'
"Very likely,” said I helplessly. “lint Socr:\tt~s. l"ic
died in Athens 2,300 years ago, by his own lmmi :uni :I
cup of hemlock poison; he was the tlnvst tnlltvt- of his
day, but the Athcnians condcnincil him for iutrodut-in;
new gods. Whut‘s Socrates to l>unl:tp'.*‘
“My dear boy”-that is the way sh" lnlllrl-.~'<cs me
when contrasting my years with my li-n»>|~.un-<»--"it is
perfectly simple. The Atlleuiails had llia-o\'l~1'etl that
_he was talking tllrough his hat
Before She could cunvlucc me on this print ill
Keutor came in ' n mon of direct nn,»tln»¢l-_ if-two -f,'»cl-l-li
candid manners, who Ixus lcclurctl on lla: m.|l<in;: I
tore learned institutions, llc woulll put u< in 1-lmrtze
of an expert and show us the pl-oc<~s.~: ot' lmmng out
il derby' but before starting as over :iw w<»|l<.< in-
mighi: as Well m`entlon that all the fur 'ls-l-il in mztltlnil
felt was received there already rl-un»\'l\<l tr-»n~. lin- skin ` Forming Machine
by the batters’ fur cutters
"Furl" ejaeulated Julia Angl-llt_~n. " »\\f.‘hl
was made of wool.
“There is rl wool felt," was thc |'o~:;>nu~.-<-, “but our
felt consists exclusively ol' the ln-st |1u:l|llil~.- .lf l>cnv»~r.
nutriil. coney and Russian hare. ’l`ln-.-i- nw mixvli by
“N0, mudnme. Our best llull'l:l is `Ii~‘f:li1Hl l"‘||.Y-`
us ln special propot'tlons~a trade .-ut-rt-l, lfrom limi
son Bay we get a ilne kind of coney-a small rabbit,
you know."
“Is there a Coney island up thcrc, tou':" sin- a.<l:t-ri,
It costs about $12 a. pound in the bag. \\'c use in til-al
of Russian hare." '
“Wouid you be able to use the fur of tin- nnni .\lnrt~h
hare?" asked Julia Angelica.
But here also the thread of her lhou_'~"\\i “`='»~' |ll"‘i<f‘f\-
Mr, Keutor‘s assistant camo np. :Hui H11' ~'|i"\il l\\\"‘l\'-'ll
the works bcgnn. En route for "thc -*intl \\'?"’f"’ ill”
thing really starts" our guide It-ll ns znronlrli a lu|':~*<~.
high room ,on whose shelves \vo|'\- lmmli-oils of ihllillf
bags 01' various sizes tllied with fur. i"\'o|n one he
took n handful ot soft. tlukv muff.
“Beaver’s belly," he explaun-tl. “Put this or aa.\‘
of these furs under a tnicl'ost-ope and .Wil \\“‘\_‘|‘l “"`
that every tlbre ls covered with iiny <l~ulc», .\ow. ll’
you mix* theriibres they will mat; if _von wot them
when matted und roll them and pound them to~_"otln-x'
they will knit more closely. silriukluir :Iii liar wlnic;
and if you keep at it long enough tin-y_ \vlll at-l into
mah a tnnglu by twisting and intcrt\\‘t.~'\Ilu§~ all UH?
time shrinking, that _von will have ilnolly rl Slllili
fabric. It will be i‘ur felt. To make lux- mat beilcr
It is dipped into it mercurial solution ln‘t’ore we get it.
The process is called cnrrotlng."
“Often beard of carroti' hair, but ncvor of can-\'ot_v
mr." me whispered. rsnu. n _ll cars 1" Hr' '"’"'l-
doesn’t it?"
"Cart-oted, not carroty," I rctortvd: and Kill’ Slim”
ignored the impertiuence, .
_ The Devil at Last.
“When the fur reaches us." lic 00"*|"“""- "il I*-"-"
been cleaned in part, but there is nlw:\i‘>\ "\'"'*‘ <"' 'l`-"*
dirt, lang hair and blood clot, and this we nm-(2 ro-
move. To do so we send the fur to the devil."
‘_ .r~"\ .
3; ~
_ 7iév,f,|~ tw
_ ~F~
lulll sugtllta looltd at inc steadily I hid made
gout!
As ho spoke llc llung wide lllc door of nnothci
big rlirlmbcr, t|;\rl<cr_ lil-<-por, crowtlcd with swiftly
nnwulg mnt~l1inv|'_\‘, nmlil wllicli \vcl'e gloomy vlsagcd
:ll'll.<:|l1s_ Pointing to\vn|'d the rcuiotest corner ll
said. "l`ln|t is thc dvi
"\'c.~‘. yes, I sec," she muttered, "the weird man
with llio pltcl\t'orl<."
"i\`o." rcspoudctl thc palivut expert. “IIe's tending
tin- lint-il~!ln» machine behind him. lic uses the
i|ll<'|\iork tn fcntl wllll."
Here, litvn. we saw the first stop lu making n derby
hat. 'l`ln- mat-lllnc looked lli:\liollt'nl_ for it scenn-il to
have 1| montll and eyes, 'l‘llluk ot’ a cone sllnped box
four fro! high ntnl oi’ the s:m|c~ llistalll-c nclwiss the
wlllv cud. all lined with large lcctii. \\'llhin it \vork.~\
u colin covc\'i~d with tcelll and revolving at u tre-
inclldulis pure.
in front isa \vork|nan armed with n pitchfork, who
kr-cps turning over and over a lot ot’ llnrc and rabbit
|`ur in lt metal box and from time to time tossing some
into lin- mouth oi' the devil, At ihc lnrgcr cud of the
cone :irc fan hlailcs that cause it dr:\i’t ot' air to now
iu\vnrtl through the iecll hole and so on through a
pipe into n receptacle for the ful' placed hack of the
mnclzlnc. The teeth separate the libres, inicruliugie
the mixture and prepare it by this picking for the
cleaning process which comes next.
Checking the revolutions oi' the turntable, a
worknntn lifts oit the cone as soon as the latter has
collected the fur for one hat. Wrapping cone and
fur in wet cloths, he plunges all into very hot water,
where he leaves them a minute. Unwrappiug the
cloths. he removes from the cone a loose. cone
shaped mass. about thirty by thirty~tive inches, and
tunnis it to n workmen, called n hardencr, who wraps
it in a not cloth and rolls this gently but iirmiy on ,|
bencli. This rolling increases the compucrucss or
lin- n1:|,~s, which is to be nt last the body of the [mtg
\\‘hlls~ thc dry fur is rushing ~tltrough the forming
umcliim- to settle on the cutie the law of gravitation
wists the heavier libres toward the bottom of the
--_-\-~~--.---___.... ,,__ _ ,_ A
Silk Mill_Where Bsnd<\Arc Woven
.',-
Pmmlg Fur Into ,Blower I
Apron and reed rolls revolve slowly; the picker,
drum and fan rapidly. Upon the turn table is placed
a perforated copper cone. Into the current of air
created by the fan is thrown from the drum two and
one-lznlt ounces of fur, the quantity for one derby.
The drum has taken it from the picker, the picker
from the feed rolls and the feed rolls from the apron.
Tho right quantity ot fur is ganged by an automatic
weighing apps;-gms,
The Hat. 'cf
Shrinking the body is called "sizing," and 1|; take,
Dlace in n bi`g eight-sided tub, callld A “buttery."
Eight planks are arranged around tin! tub, one for
cach workman. On each plank is a cloth, usually of
burlap. Th t bi till d in
mndeused steemlli. s e wt water kept hot by
\ l
1
Softening the edge with a hot iron, another work-
man gives the brim the l`:\slrion.'|ble .shape and then
places the but on :l iiollmv iron table, cnllvll u
"baker," tl1rnu;gh which steam passes. The brim
softened, the hat is taken to 1| bunch wltsrc with the
aid ot a board re_-t-milling :t brim. called a °'-ctl»oa|1‘l."
the curl nnlst in vogue is obtained
In n brlzrht. airy room n<-ar b_v girls sow on the
binding nlnl Iumll-bot|| mndc in the fm-tor_v~\\~hir ‘fo
the “sweater” oi' goat or .llnssln lenilicr null stick ;;
thc lining with rubber ccmcnt.
“Wlmt irocomcs of all that sluii"--fur. leather and
the rest-tlnit you reject? is it wasted?" asked
Julia Aiigeiira.
“lt is soirl to nmnut`:tr'turcr.= of second class hats." '
As wc |'cacll<si thc struct sho looked at any ||nu,].
gcar. “\\'hnt prlcc uns the llc-t°l»_v`l" I told hal-_
“l thought as much." mused Julia Angelica. "And
it's a dead one."
 ~ f fc f
gist-llrdey tuna. , req; img,
' omlntiofrjrrrowu uname . nggs, pe- asa. 11 eau ouailum
u . _ mmm , ao to SBIBN 0°) r' 1° *°
Oerrlmd Ra' uvvrrwsdnuqar and Gmane (no 11 to 14 nest (quarter) , 'e to
60 to I0 Fresh I-Ibrrinl (DOI-)
» _u rwnlm' as to 405 .1>smau, .pu  al to as onaaea om
t _multi  ~ ~ - to-can mmm, per an , , is rpms- can -
Em". Kwgitvni '
  ~ ' ~u\_o¢u\»m nn.;
, |5.50‘f.o"6l50 P||\¢",l -tv _ \
Cornell .Gdddsh (ib.)
ti.
ilettuce (bunch)
13
16 Radial: (bunch)
l__
SUMMERSIDBI MARKETS
11
Z0
5 _
18 Oorrtcfal lor every Wohudey and
Bc. | Bntnrdllt but. . g,~.`
sprin¢I¢*'i><°1f~> 51-25 *° $1-60.511' utfowi ' u ins fruexews Marguerite, E1 Pr t- n oo. ` ‘ 
g l Rhubarb ini) g°  '!.\Duck| 16 denrte and Van Horn. At Bc you :au Kztxi Strtleszrnn   "g
ee
` ,   V _ , , _ _zz
2° Potatoes 2o`0ats (white) 40 find few cigars to equal 'I‘uokett's
c EMT 9; to 113 gzfézéblnek) 42 to  gonsnet, Peg T91, and st°n_°"“
Ol 5 to 7  ,,, _ V ac son. We keep those and other
Drums me ‘ u w xo  n Q" ‘L good ones at our mn and emu
Oilidksl I7 ° them to you in lust els” wa' _
l'l`“r\=~vl rv I2 ° keen mem . is pu-use feupgadia
to 15 ::At10c. there are iew cigars better patent bumidors 'fha `
.'.\ff ‘ -