` ~ i . l'_ Ei* _ _ |13. _ li if , . _ <3 _-,i ._ _ .. "T5-“tx -rs _ ..~_ . ._. 5 .l. `.}‘.' lllf 5i-.-, .|. » i .l _ . _rw _ _:i 1., i '~».§f”='=~. i 'nr ;~ ;<.»_ _ ..._ >~°e:_.f_»%`...':»._= ”"5".72§¥¢’ “f.'°‘r...'“‘\ s ~:..` -ii. _ - ‘ ;_|,..>_.- ;. ._ §._-i-51.1' j. . '.“, 1 '*-; _;_<~;»-es-< _ ..,,-_ _.\=_.,~_Q-: 5 ~. .1 gy; .e QQ. __ f~'~j'_&\ ff on . '..=~ _ sz- . i._ I .V i _ Q ’ of-if iéf' 'Ti ashions rg ~aw~eklyi.et¢r V lnllment has been made E Marie Louis. wha ll _‘ - ‘d-doailner. to send week during the Winter for section. a letter from Paris. * " ' ' ‘ ‘ Parts, Nev.lo,19is. PEER L visit to the ateilsrs or the Franca cesturien. one leave! with varied impressions. Any i of the various Oriental in- iltaticeo seem to be in evidence. 'The Corset and the Silhouette. ?:ht tho silhouette under all conditions aina.th0 same. The figure must ap- mn na;m\‘|` it must gppear corsetless. *high by no means ls as slin~ ple as it sounds. for one has iw bg gg cgroful aa aver iii the selectioii of thi; get-ineiit. There is, however, auch a wide ranle from which to se- in-; ting it roqulrss only patiencecto had the one, belt suited to emillllltllztt oiie’l (ood Points. The bust is lower. wrists larger. and altirts longer but the bones are fewer and Defies. The material is more elas- “Q thu; in (ho Summer corset. .aa we have often heard. the gown de- pends so much on the suitable corset thot the fashionable woman has cornell: for almost every sown. The har - wear corset for the tailored suit isvesl- aentialiy of shesvier material. For sw ' ing wear brocaded silk is worn, ottell laced in front. ’i`his,ot course. ls more eerily saluted ima. they sa.v.ln°f° °"_‘“' rortable, especially when the ionic Skill nas lnseta of elastic in the back and on each side. ’ The Brassiere. wh. ii., hint. often only two l““l‘¢‘= above the waist line. calls for lx sup- port of some kind. 'file brassiera is the next in line of comfort. and luxury- 'i‘hese, too, como in many style! “"4 “f many materials. Those for reducing contain the inevitable elastic banding. cleverly set under the lace. Those to bo wom with the diaphanouii bl0\lS@ are made of many laces and fine em~ broidery. Katerisls for Underclotbss. FUI' Used. Underclothes are fashioned on the new lines and are made or crepe 11° vlleue. Japanese silk or entirely of lava. I have heard it whispered that some are even trimmed in fur, bands of ermins nb- neiirmx on night gowns and 0" th” charming combinations. Q lsterisls for the Gown. Now that the foundation in this mat- ler of dress has been disriissed. let us fee what the gown is made of and how. 'i`hs materials are more r:ivishin_g und luxurious than ever in their soft dull colors and curious intricnte weaves. Such glorious 'materials are the chiffon iirot-alles with all the softness of chiffon. the richness or brocadesi a metal thread adding its glitter to the whole but no stiffness whatever, Meinl lares and the brocades, too. are fnvoreil not only for evening wear but for frorks and tiinics. Even blouses :ire fashioned of it. Vi=ive_lii of all kinds nrs in favor. especially chiffon and Pziniie. Valo\u's tie Bnun is n chiffon velvet remarkable for its suppieiiess and adaptability for draping. In fact, s.li velvet-surfaced iiotim will be worn. Fiure is li vt-r.\' iiesutlfui material, likewise chameleon velvet lvhi-_‘li has a. changeable ground with' the nop of a. different color. for instance. a but-knround of red :ind blue with n niip of black; another, blue and led with a nap of tnupe. Serges, very fino ones, linve held their own in the competition with the new materials. Wool lzrnniie. ri iiiateriiil resembling hop sncklnz. but much closer and finer. li: smart and used n ilreat deiii ns is drap ds nymphs. which is on the order of Vent-tion cloth. Two-toned wool veloiirl are shown in many color combinations. Stripes are making a way for themselves, very quietly but insistuntly. Dark Romim stripes are being used, hilt only for one garment, as it skirt, or part of li, garment such ls the large penr-shaped sleeves, which form the greater part of the bodice. Plaids nre seen again, and when used in r-oinblnation with plain material are likely to gain great fnvor. . Suits. Suits may he elaborate or severe, aa fiincy or reciuirement tllctntes. The elab- orrile ones me often of ri romnlonplars material, but of complex lines. wiiereiis thi- simplest ones are ilcilfllililnl 0" W" rit~hiicss of thc fuhrir. Surli .1 runife 0! material as one hiis to select fronil Fur on Suits. ' All seem to have u touch of fur. A lack of collars is another note. the fur band passing around the coliurless cont, Many coats button up to the fill* neckhand. Sleeves of Suits. 'rhe sleeves of the strictly tallered luita ahdw llttle‘or no fulinels at thi armhole. The Kimono sleeve is still in vogue. sin. the ai-owed lhwld" °f'°°‘- .waistcoat Baplaeea levers. Anotlioi fad! to' baunoled Il the elim- ination oi revere ont the coat. This 1° "yn, .gum gmipilfies the coat. but Juli here is where the waistcoat~ai1DUlfl- /me ol an the eiiilmate aeeemfm this la one of the most important- Of mu" |”.¢g|»|g||, cdlofl and shawl. deeoratld bf Ulllni 5* l' '* “""‘°“' m mei: orohly e lhllll- - tl i horter in Paris than || ",\?l\:y are developed in all mu. ..i|u,ny strictly tailored sltlrls g |g_@¢ piece, the seam lieinlt ia till ‘acl or front and litlsii ; over each hip- Plaid *ag gf; gn* en the bias with the in the blhl. Some show iuiilcs of |m‘ hredornmillt _colnr. .#1 ~` Q . liouaes. mgggg to he wom with o suit, have Qu. 3|,"-gggsvaistcoata, Many wom- , ' ;_¢f¢f¢| to have the miie cr Iles _ i ,and ia nine with tht- suit. chir- eg gb dyed have cuffs and coi- from 5 iars oi' v§0'i‘t‘| or silver lace, onli many small buttons ro\,_ed with the chilon or metal lace. * Wnsii tuilo blouses are remarkable for their wear and lnexpefisivenesl. 'l`tlc_\' are made to wear over the lace corset vuvar. 'l`he sleeve of the new blouse ia larizei- to balance the ~-width of the figure caused by tile riuffy pepf lum. li. is cut in one wiili tho blnunn und thi- fullness hangs o\'t~r the girdle. Afternoon and Evening Gowns. Aitrrnoon :mil eil-ning gowns have iibilrerintifii sleeves, and in some cases, nu|ie_ 'i`i\e i-u|‘|:iRe nn the cvenltig gown is in :longer of disappenrlng altollther. it is ilu- iiierest affair' ol' tulle. Tulle plnvs an iinpiwtairit port in the evenilii! gov/ii. not onli' the rorslige beink matic of it, but lilany tiinlus its well. Tunica. Ami tunii-sl They nre pulled up in the liar-k :ind :ii-i~ short in the front or UP in the front while the back lurins a iruiii. 'i‘licy me wil-ed und many of them are fur triinineii. or have it line of the sviniiiliiling rhinestones strings or inoi-it jewels \\'heli l say they are iviri-il. i mean with the soft ft-ntlii-r box~ Mx, often the trimming is quite suf- iii-iclit to make it fall in grant.-ful rip- ples, A 4-lilirining oils-i-t is gained bv the slim ii-llhniiette seen through the ii'ansD1lrsiit tunlcs oi' liicc, tulle or chit- l`on. More ilticzition is paid to the backs of gowns this _vcur than for ii. l0nS tliiie. Snshes are quite us much in evidence as the iiiiilcs. and viever is the person who i-an find lx new arrangement for this Krarefiil :\ddltion_ They are beaded and embroidered and mny be anything from a girdle to si. drapery. They hel|,\ io ronreni the waistline, aildiniz to the large waist effect. When liangins' straight, they produce long lines. 1-lnis have not struck i1 wonderfully new note. Small ones seein to be pre- ferred. but are not worn quite so far down on the head. ln fart., they are raised. the left side showing s large part Of the new t-oirrure. 'i‘hs crowns ure quite submerged by the high siaiitliin; brim, \-'ery often tho liriin is of tvlreii hire. Butterflies ure seen on liuis :ind are made tif rnaiiy iiu'itei'in.ls. Roses, too. seem popular. 'Fliey ora ivlreil to stand uv- iaree yellow or pliiit vi-Ivet ones. 'l‘bere is quita nil 1-ffort tu bring ngain into favor- llie ustrirli piiiiuc, ibut as _vet one lines not see niaiiy of tliciil. ’l`lic Cllin strap is nn 1i nliiiilier of hats. ll is iiiiite iiei-niniiil.: tn tlir _voiitlifiii ti\'nl tyim ol' fiirr. I siiw one i'ns\l.etied hy n rose, tiiiiie thu i-ni|ut~itish tfnil-li. l"lii'. too, is ilsoii on iniiny hitts, v.'lit-rosa =§ \_ l . F . . \ b I . i /f l if are nmiie oniirel_v nf fur. Fur on Everything. Dyed Fur. I-`iir is used on t-vclyvtliiiig, collars. cuffs, deep bnnils, on the tunic, pep- lums onli hiouscs nnii. its I iiiive said before, oven on uiilleirlotlirs. 'i‘he ilyetl fur has lost its siiiarliiess by being cop- ieil by the cheap fiir dealer. Fur Scarfs and Muffs. 'l`hi= fur srnrfs i\rr» longer :ind wider. .liniiy of them wrnp twice around tho iillure ailtl nro quilt' ns lilut-h of B. wrap ns ont- 1,-iin wear. ‘I`lie iniifis are hii|;o‘ :ind of diff:-rent shapes. Tiiere are inllny quaint little shoulder Capes and neck nieces. Mole skill. ermlne and clilnrhiila are used for many of tha 'small fiirs. The soft flat furs Which lend theniselves to thejracaflil drap- lng are marie into ravishlng evening coats. Furs are used alone or in com- bination. Fitch has returned to favor nnd hnb.v-liinib. Hudson seal, pony skin, skunk. fox and marten are used for trlmnilnir whole itiirments or in tvomhlnstlous. Tiirrn is an increasing demand for fur: the automobile anti outdof-door sports have made warin garments n nerrssity. V\'ii|ie this is true. tho fiir-lienrltil: animals :ire dc- rrcasiiiit in num-‘icr, niiiklng the prli-5 of fur giirinciils niinolit fiiluiloils. 'I‘iieii. too. there are n niilnlier of rloths niatlri in lmllntion hi' fur, which are belnit used for top roiits or sport rniils. Poirot shows in niuif nitintle, the sleeves of whit-h nrr- so lviiic that when the lianiia are jniiii-ii they form a coiiifdi'lntilo iiniif. A ions iiitui-eil velvet wrap shown by ilreroll is horieil :it the hem to stand hut from the dress. A number of the foiitn limi wraps show this lame ten- \lf many 'tlenr-y to time at the knees. We have the tunic lo thank for this added full-' nt-as lmlow the hips. It has of neces- nliy called for the larger waist. hence the lmgglness of the blouse, Slippers and Rose. Q 'i'lie slit skirt and the new d\l¢es have had much to do with the novel- SHIRTWAIST I-IINTS 'rhe chic rhirtwaiit this Fail will he waahlble. _ < . . _“Na starbh" is the verdict for the fashionable ehirtwaiat. __ i lany welsh of chiffon in all shades will be worn.. 1. - _ ~ _ Chiffon aiaista may be washed if stif- fened with a,-aomeivhat stroifli lum water. two teaspoonfula of thp stock solution to ll. iluvful of water. . Plain aliirtlvsists will he worn this i-‘alI-linen. out-k and gingham being popular. . Extremely simple cuts are the rule. very ilimlisr to s man.'s,slilr.t la the Fall waist ,for woixieiuolongsted maui. der lines and a short yoke lieilli the i`lllB. t'i»lton <‘l‘¢Dv. Voile. lwlin and l>i'ocall- eii waisls must sil have the short yoke. i-‘or plain tailored waiala of linen, inudras, pongee or wash silk, the yoke may be omitted. and the visits at both back and front run to the shoulders. stitching will hs made prominent on tailored Waisls. (in many, round stitch will be used. _ Silver Jewelry for Although it is eh unwritten is thai the schoolgirl mast wear only the sim- olut at ieniry. the rev piers. which sho needs may be exceedingly pretty. -For instance. there are the new_ iittla lillll fof baltl hifi! i!lIllat'l.‘ Tfiill l'rl of sliver sei with aapphiru-or -1 good imitation. of those stones-or with rhinestones. To secure the motor veil, the newest centrlvence is s sliver hair- pin an Urol its tap with slveral‘Hp- phlres U with a llaila Milk ol whit! pearl; and to wear with the Milling school `ti-ock there ars s\lort“~nlvk .chains of ailver links, from which atil~ penn pendants of the mme mstai.set with imitation Pearls, sapphires. br ris- bleii or with genuine corals. The schooi|irl'a favorite jewel case is a dainty affair in plated ailver Mullah ing ol three removable ttiyrsnd' rpm cushion tam Eaelrtrav is oovefsdiwith paAe~loned; delicately i'iowei-eq.-eggpg, _ i it X ,F Q _ » ___'~`, 1 - _ \\ -I `r` f -“4- ` ;:`;~`;,"`: P (&. ` »»_ - .T _ ._ ( Z?/' fff ‘iii ' il `\ l I \ . _ _,_}__ 'i.»_. _>;- _ _.Vp 'I a`_. .\_ ‘ A I ~ l ' ,' S' ii - in i' ,-f' ," .. _/..~ \ '._ g_/_/`,'_.ff},{.‘ ` if' \ ./;._;.'. _(irc _ i ~~_~-Q -.1 ` _ i '_ ~, \. l 1 » ` l /...li i "9 i_ 1 G, M ', :iw I J f ’ _-2 I M _Q I 1 A' x “_ r../ ..` _ . I ` S / Q2: <&>l‘ “V i fi/ 4# I. E _ _ if /'f:7 iff f Lgx ` 'JZ'