This dolntyfrock shows sandcolor- ed butterfly marqulsctte in combina- tion with Hague blue pussy wlllow silk. The bodice Is of sand-colored puuy wlllow.with arvestec of cream lace. The floating. veil of sand-colored lace is a'modlsh detail ' of their cos- tume. Fashion has gone back to mid-Victor- ian times for inspiration this year. Short, gathered skirts, trimmings of buttons. braids and velvet ribbons. and close clinging bodice with modest- ly high necks and sleeves of equal modesty. covering the arm. are all re- miniscent of the early days of the young Queen Victoria, and some of the modern costumes are quaintly like. con tain old~tlmey frocks lifted from fain- llyltreasure chests for comparison. Another striking feature of the We tor-fan period. notable in this spring's fashion is the combination of silks. Plain and figured silks, or striped pat- terns used with plain silk are exceed- ingly smart- much smarter indeed. than either plain or patterned silk used alone; and this fact should be held in mind when you set out to pur- chase material for the new silk frock. Do not be dismayed at the vivid col- ors and striking patterns of the new A striking note of color is given to this frock of black pussy willow taf- feta by trimlngs of closely grouped dark blue cords. The saucy little eton, jacket is trimmed with millltary fashion with strappinps of braid, and jet buttons. Snap-fasteners close the jacket at one side .With the costume are worn dancing boots with buttoned tops of putty-colored cloth. silk. at the huge polka dots. as large as silver dollar. at the bewildering checks and stripes which are in such zigzag effects that they make one a. bit dizzy if the eye lingers too long on the pattern; for mosr of these silks are intended to be used sparingly, in coni- bination with a plain shade in match— ing tone. FLOWERS 0N STRIPED GROUNDS THE CRAZE. Little nosegays of gay colored flow- ers imposed against a background of fine black lines are particularly smart and mid-Victorian. Many of the charm- iiig new pussy willow faffefas for spring and summer use show these nosegay and stripe patterns. and one especially quaint design has small baskets of flowers sufficretl over ll. finely striped white and blue ground. WHIMS OF DAME FASHION One of the newest and prettiest con- celts is the green silk purusol with an apple tipped handle. The handle is of natural wood. and an apple. about the natural size of a crabappic. rests in a little crook in the handle formed by two finger like twigs. The apple is in natural colors, and is of a glossy com- DOsition that. successfully rivals ini- ture’s own fruit. Another attractive parasol for mourning wear is of black taffeta. silk, having a long, black enamelled handle encrusted with bright Jet. 'l‘lic purnsol is really for second mourning, inci‘uslcd wltli dull 18i- lt could be carried for first mourn- ing. . - Shore hats will include those of col.- lon cre e,.espei:ially those made along sailor l hes. ,These can he succcssrur ly made at home. The Wutteau hats are returning. Styles of hairdressing must become, more elaborate at the back when the Wattcau hat is worn. The pretty chiffon huts made with double brims that allow for “pressed flowers" between the layers are galli- Ins in popularity. Of course you have heard of the new silk, hour (10 jeunesse: but per- il“!!! you do not know that it is a soft silk which looks and feels like some- thing half way between a pussy wil- low taffeta and silk foulard. There is a new four piece suit ar- ‘tracting attention. The additional piece is a separate vest—~mnking in all skirt. blouse, vest and coat. But let the return for a moment to paranoia; there are still one or two that are too charming to overlook. Smart paranoia which look the min- iature awnings are to be made in awn- lns stripes of black and white. These "awning" parnsols will doubtless ap- Dell' in other colors as the season nu: Vances. A perusal of very rich effec. is the new Japanese pars-oi. The framework is unadjusted as to make . this and umbrella very flat and Jan- ‘finesque in linem'l‘he silk covering ll plain. but the shade may be as rich I! you wish. The border of the par- osol ls houistltched. and upon the d°“' ble fold are worked tiny Japanese characters ln‘gold thread, two to a store. ‘ F‘ioliiiu are again coming to the fore and ln'moro-oliorminu guise than ever bet . The real iii-iii. Washlnlmfl llcb . with it: cascade of little ruf- zfvn-uw- lies. is seen; a new iirhu with stand up collar is a compromise between the old fashion and the new. Acorns buttons and buttons reseiiib- lingr square bulging pillows are now being used. The acorn buttons are used principally as ornaments and um ‘ attached to the garment pendant fash- ion, twisted threads forming the stems of the oak fruit. The vogue of wearing ll. tiny corsage bouquet or boutonnierc at. the belt of the street suit is becoming pronounc- cd. It is a very welcome opportunity for a touch of brightness new that. the shoulder boutonnlerc has been role- gtiied to the past. The waist line of suit cools is in many instances descending. but the evening gown in almost every iii- stancc displays the high waist llnc. frequently elevating it to a “bust line." A new and pretty idea in evening frocks, however. does show a normal line the frock having a laced peasant bodice of silk. This bodice laces down the centre front with silk cords. All sorts of original touches are be- ing found on suits, the latest of which is the uneven coat length. usually olr talned by points depending from the sides and sometimes the hack. Pointed flaps are also being placed two upon each coat pocket. These flaps are plno ed one at each side instead of top and bottom, the points meeting at the cen- of the ocket. tr(:tnd still? seasons without end. will the fashions. and pretty concelts Como pouring out of the horns oi plenty. held aloft by every trade that caters to woman‘s attire. HOW HE KNEW. A travelling sales agent visiting ll. be for e factory made a bet with t mahnger that he would pick out all the married men among the em- sea. pk‘X'ccordlngly be stationed himself the door as they came back from dinner and mentioned all those whom he believed to be marriedhatnd in al- r case he was rg . "23:03:35 you do it 5’" salted the man- amalement. “'93 ll?! quite simple," said the trav- eler,"‘qulte simple. The married men all wipe their feet on the mat. The single med don't."-—- St. Louis Post- Dispatch. Easy to dance till dawn, however warm the summer ..night may be, in this filmy little frock, sans sleeves. 0f cream-tinted goldenrod satin it is veil- ed with white daphne silk. The ribbon- loop sash is a new feature. The gene- ral tone of the frock is cream. and stockings of natural silk repeat the color-scheme. Very suggestive Phofas o o firs/11011 (37725.7 - Stud/09. A \ of the Victorian period is the voile frock with its long sleeves, high-waisted jacket and floun- ced skirt. White voile dropped over white pussy willow silk gives a delic- ate effect, airy effect, and the hat with its velvet stre- amers «adds to the quaint 1830 effect This military frock is of sand-color- ed mohair and worsted fabric and the underskirt is.of goldenrod satin. The front of the bodice is trimmed .with braid frogs and eagle brass buttons— he new fad of the military maid—and a belt of black leather adds the final of the costume. Full Skirts, High Sashes and Simple Little Brodices Suggests Youth—Ecru and Natural Tints in Lingerie Frocks—A Revival of Mid-Victorian Fashions Brings Quaint Flowored Silks into Favor—Smart Military Frocks of New Khaki-Kool—Comhinations of Plain with Figured Silk. 'l‘lie prettiest. of these nosegay silks have white grounds on which the deli- rnte tints of the flowers show up dain. lily; for a more practical silk frocks there are pussy willow patterns in the new oblong or diamond shaped checks. 'l‘liese checks come in printings of blue and black, green and black. or- ange and black. sand and blue. and so on. Particularly smart are some black and white patterns, borrowed from Austrian decorative motifs and called the Viennese patterns. These have large black and white flowers scatter- ed over the checked ground or wavy black lines Wander across a white ground hair-lined in black in a design suggesting the undulations marked on it chart by a seismagrapli. KHAKl-KOOL THE SILK SENSA- TlON'OF THE SEASON. Much credit. is due toliic American makers who have brought out this re- markable new silk for summer weave. The various khaki-kool weaves resem- ble handsome shantungs and rajahs. but there is a novelty in their texture and n. sinnrtncss in their colorlngs that have made them instantly popu- ulr for distinguished tailored costumes for summer travelling and country club wear. One nfthc big shops just off Fifth Avenue this month has had a whole window devoted to these stun- ning khaki-kool silks and to good look- ing, tailored frocks and suits made of them. These silks come in the favor ed sand and putty tones. in a rich drcadnuught gray and in pearl white ~11 particularly niodisli shade this spring. Combinations of silk in soil color are also very much favored. and frocks ‘ showing these combinations are liked by women who prefer rich. plain color- ed fabrics to flowered or patterned of- !ects. The use of one silk with un‘ other. even with the shades match identically. produces an effect of con- trust; us for instance when bands of laille ('lilelquo silk trim it full skirt of plissy willow tnil‘ctii. or a ruffled skirt of pussy wlllow is accompanied by tl bodice of crinkled crepe willi pussy willow hands and motifs. AiRY SLEEVES FOR COOLNESS. Chiffon and not sleeves will be worn with silk bodice—but the chiffon or net is usually doubled before cutting out the sleeve and the guimpc to which it is attached, for n (locollcte effect is not part of Fashion's design now. The overbodice of silk is never sowed fast to the gulmpe, but. is quite separate from it. though a few artfully placed snap-fasteners serve to hold the two garments together in correct lines. Sometimes the silk overbodlcc is in the form of a bolero. falling over the belt. Skirts are frankly gathered to the belt. though the gathers are usuni‘ ly pushed to the sides where most of the fullness of the skirt comes. All skirts measure three yards around at least and the skirt escapes the ground foni four to eight inches according to the maturity of its wearer and tho slciidcrness of her figure. and below it her dainty buttoned boots.- or high heeled slippcrs iirc couiiotlislily re- vealed. FLOWERED ORGANDIES AGAIN. Every woman is pleased to see the lovely flowered orgnndies llill‘k again. Dotted swisscs are another charming. old fashioned fabric revived this your. Ecru or sand-colored lllliiSU‘S are ex- cessively fashionable. llllll with these are combined sand-colored nets and shadow luces.‘ Stockings of natural colored silk are the fad with frocks in these sand. or natural tones. NEW WAISTS DO NOT SHOW RAD- ICAL CHANGE. The new waists are not radically different from the best modes of the winter, but they have a few distinctive points. Yokes are on almost all of the blouses. whether for dressy wear or street. For the meals part. they ex- tend only n few inches over the shoul— der in front. and are often lacking in the back. Sleeves are almost always long. tight fitting and set in at a shoul- der line, but little lower than normal. (‘.nt‘l's. light turned back or flaring, the lab the wrist. A distinctly new and artistic note is long transparent cuff. falling over the hand. and a stand up turn over collar to lllillf'll, on a dressy blouse. Pockets are on everything and plac- ed niost allrulngly. Blouse, skirt and cost are all plentlfiilly supplied. The only thing necessary is to study the angle and the location for a ipocket and it is a safe rule to put it where least expected, but where its office as pocket will Justify its existence. The new neckwour is as pretty and dainty as ever. but bids farewell ,to the .very low neck line. Some of the slieei'est pieces extend to the chin. Some of the eccentric models reach almost to the top of the ears. Most of the collars extend quite to the hair in the back. Most of the hats shown so far favor the sailor above all. shapes. .but the crovtn is very low and rounded with a very narrow brim. Frequently. the trimming is only a narrow Ottonion ribbon of the some shade as the hot. it passes through several white pearl buckles and fusions with loops and ends in the buck. or simply passes around the crown, ending in it how whose ends hang down about. five inches. All hats are very simply trimmed. They are of Milan strain with satin or silk upper or lower hrlin or the entire bill may be of satin or silk. Simple little frocks of linen, cotton and summer silks are creeping out into the open day by day; and so at- triictlve are the materials that it seems surprising so many of the model _V frocks can go wrong. For dance frocks informal evening frocks, etc. that will do duty now and yet prove eminently useful in a slimmer outfit good cream net. plain or embroidered. is a wise choice and many charming models are being offered just now. - . Those that rely chiefly on self trim- ming. little hand run tucks, shirrings, cordlngs. etc., are more choice and effective than the models more heav- ily trimmed in lace and machine em~ broidery. and picot edging is tremen- dously popular as a finish for the net flounces. frills. etc. The girdle is eliminated in many of the new not models. sliirrcd cordings being usual- ly substituted. but an idea exploited in one little French model is attrac- live. The waist line is indicated by sever- al lines of corded shlrring as usual. but between the two central cords a narrow velvet ribbon in corn flower bide runs around the waist and ties in a prim little bow at the back. A similar velvet ribbon encircles the throat. which is bore.'save'for the velvet bend in front, but by on up- a” standing slilrrcil frill across the Iiuck over which the velvet ribbon passes to lie in a little bow in the middle back. And. apropos of vclvci ribnndmsonic summery frocks for afternoon, but with a too expensive square decollct- age in front. atone for the lapse from good taste by running a tapering breadth or point of net in fine lacc like an odd bib from the girdle top to a narrow velvet ribbon that circles the threat. This veiling is wide enough at the buttom to be softly tilled clear across the girdle front. but tapers sharply to a point and leaves but a little of the chest and throat uncover- ed. Linen frocks of more or less seren- ity are made up in the very soft linen and in lovely colors. Very frequently the linen ls used only for a skirt and an overblouse of some kind. while the long sleeved under body is of finest cotton voil or sheerest white linen. Russian blouse lilies reappear insist.- ently in these over blouses and in silk frock blouses too. There are many little plaltcd over blouses belted a trifle high. with very short frill peplums, among the 'iwixt seasons models in crepe and soft silks and a popular little frock of this type is the rose crepe illustrated among our sketches. its over blouses and skirt nre entirelyplaited. in narrow box plalto, except where the fullness of the skirt is shlrred in a hip yoke. to develop into box plalts below. The long sleeves are of rose chiffon and the chemisette on dhigh flaring collar frill of fine cream lace with a bow or smoke—grey velvet to match the nor-A row rlbaud girdle of gray velvet. .“ regimental to'ich. Stylish Men’s "Wear For Easter There's newness, style and refinement to every article of men’s wear that our fumishi'og department is showing for Easter Wear. Men who appreciate smart furnishings that are correct, will find here a most pleasing assortment. Please note our prices. We claim that we can save you money on your wearables, our prices are lower than you usually pay for brand new stylish goods. We are showing everything that is new, in Shirts Gloves Underwear Collars Hosiery ‘-‘~' Ha ndkerchie is Ties Suspenders Pyjamas This store is always at. your service. and whether your purchase be small or large, it is always a pleasure for us to serve you, and show you the new goods. ' MacLELLAN . ., Tailors & Furnisbers