*M0353 4°-1913- - -. .  .f=1rssonAR1.o'r'rETowN GUARDIAN ' ' 1'_'PliGEfl¢R’_‘  ‘
r 1 , _ , _ -._:, __,,i,Y_”.._K._7,..,.-_..__2_._,;_ ___ ____
__ _ _ __ _ _ _ _. ._.__,,».___ -
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‘*=° ' » - ' _ '_ 1..-1-~< l f _  __  - ~   - '  = ff' “--
   0   T   G   ARDIIAN T““i."::.i;.i;“’.“.';$i;£?.2"i~........
ll
' --'l\\\l'1"‘-`~`-"""""`-`~'-'- '__'}`-if-=`-`-`-`-'-'==¢==--:-f:::_-_-f_-_-_-_-_._._._._._._________;f__ ___ _______________ ____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ __ ` __ ,__ ____ 9 O _ _
_ ._ = . _ \ _ __ _ ' ' ' ' ' "_' """"" ' ' 1'"-__""" 'i _-"""-*Z-=`C"-'~f-`-'-‘f-'fr'-~'~`-`-'-""' ` "`-‘-‘-‘-'-‘- ~`-‘-"ff-'-1'-‘-'-'-`~‘-‘=-'-'-'~'~‘-'-‘-‘ff-‘Y'"-‘-`-‘-‘-‘-'-rw-'f-'~'-'~-=-'~ =---‘--s -'-‘f-‘-'-'-‘ff-‘ ‘Yr '~'-'f-'-'~'-‘-'~‘-'f' ' ' ' ‘ 'ff-‘--‘-‘ -‘-‘ f- » - ~'-'-'f-'-'- ~ '-1 ~'-'~'-'~'-'-'f-‘f- - ff-1*!->-f. :-1-':.‘:.'::::.':.;~.~.-.-_-.~_-; -
. __   lllF?lFE?EFllElFi===p##li=ssl=-~
E
A TORONTO. Oct. 1_3.-Th! BV“.'l'il Ol
Trade itlintations for Ylllfctdsy were
l t sl n- re ers "
A” ‘|°“l?'$&tl` t l sto F
“'" ° ° Net lnoludl rss). “.m"°'”‘
No 1 northern. ll
1 -§of I  
_ o. I nor ern 11 .
..._He...s__w l lb-
~:.'::f~:f.:i.5??§."‘l’:f~~»  l~~»-»-
HO.. I 0.W., 'I c. _
Extra No l lliio.
.1-.-
'N:` I  ‘ rlci 41 x 'r
|l\lI‘ l’\ I, FIC ,
mo. s nude." lm..-dl-iod', nzzggf
»..‘ z.°:'.:~'-.~.“:~°-:.°“- r-I-=,.._
e . cos
Frelshie épullisl. ~
I white. 'lilo to Ko, '
........2 .‘.'.‘l.“'i ill’.‘.° 37°.. ..,..
Ol I I (I UI* M
No. il winter, per car lot, gill?" ,°
__ No. I winter, per car lg, 3,31,
‘ No, I fdprlng wheat.  .
No, 8 spring wheat. 0 JI.
less (According to Freighte Outline).
No. 8. nominal. .
lsrllv _tN_¢_w Cwaaggcgrdlns to Fnlsms
_ alanine. 01 to thus.
lilskwllelt (Acc°l:_l_n¥ to Frelsms Out.
e .

Buckwh` mmsé
 ,(A:?otF_d__&:s to relslm outside).
'wnr 'Efi:l%y°,'z1°;.':§'.' (T°""'°"
Debris Fleur la mas. rronpe slug.
1 _ s . ‘
O Mil
';&‘Y__E__51g_:E:_,}_% m.'.'s loat-
` Frolshtl. ‘shes lxglririsl.
Bran. per ton. 881.15.
Shorts, per ton, $42.25.
- Hly (Track. Toronto);
. 1 per ton. 811 to ns.
stuod..o_::__i_on_i__§1a__xo___$2o. ___ '
~ IC , UNI s
-(br lets. ver (ton. os to ago.)
inn wharf:-'§T»°r;f '§`;l'sF"` sung
I - i . DOI*
. s sm-ins. au
N2 s soon. ills ’°'h:s“§2f|‘ '
_- ` g
el.
= ts-No . seo d sv sung,
yr-Annual-eTi§:€rm` u "I
1 . ls.
Y-Timothy. 8;!! °:Sm¥z; 31- -ms.
ed and clover, no go sag 9,, gt
LIVERPOOL MARKETS.
l@lv»%l. oct. 11.-Bohr, mrs :asia
--rk. prime mesa. western, gps,
-_ . short one 14 to is lbs., _
 Cllmborhnd cut. iw to H1 las..
hols .14 _ _ '
dmumamw ie los 5 itos
' ll . li . .
100|: xo.. heavy, 8810 I3 lbs..  lu '
short olosr sodas. is to zo ins., 151|.
53101114011. lcllare, ll to 18 lbs., 1
...l..f".w.":.'.:..::f.°“.1';i.:“i'.°.':’°'~ 1"'-"“=
rd box; lm :_ s ‘mlffl
_ _ w. Australian in London
 ;ntine spirits, 125|. ‘ ".‘
__ n, common, Ms 3|-1, _
___l_;_.
 mamnrrs
 ' WIITNIPEG LIVE HECK;
lllnlpes' Oct. ll. ts at k
B _ -Bbw
slab Yardag u.ttle,‘=_0.d
r stssll. S3 to |ls;_heifsrs, Ill)
.16"to. $9-50: hulls. ti to 1.11-
3% to 69: stoohors and-xofdorsf
l0.60: veal' calves 05 to dll:
loam. is to sudo.-
eleots, 308.50; saws and heav.
0710 $14- : stars, $1150; llgam
nssmsuswamuvnsmoix.
°£3_t_”r3_du5io. yon. n._os_tuo-an
no "I-Becoirtl. 500: 51 bisher: if to
-Hell-ll l . : -

~.r.‘.:°:.:.:=."..-.._“' ....'°"l‘..' i... ...A ' ..-
Ilsll-is_;=.°_;_: la-mia. no ig s'ims;'_ news
. ‘ _ CHICAGO Uvlil Block.
cu&l‘0 0 l. 10.--H08!-Roos .
Hai-lion gunned mon; to iobmlfi llgi-,
dull, loo to 25:: lower on 
bhuézshfa-9. S1l__}§_'¢o’_s.i%,&o§°li&_
#71-so' ro' sl'?.°»in.' root is out '
t-Receinw. 10.000. :su-uet_~ua~
0o to 75o lower than Th
cattle. good. choice and prime,
9.35: common and medium  its
2 butcher stock, cows and e
still. 5: eannexa and cutters, $25.#
_ 1 stockers and feeders, good,
and fancy, l1s.|.6 to ,ULIB
r. common and medium S to ll
calves, good and choice# lit!!
; western range beef steers, 818.15 to
: coke and heliers. $8 to 312.50.
~ een; sce|pts_ 15.000. Fat classes
mfra steady* good feeding steady:
rs and breeding ewes dull and lower;
 hoico and prime. Sl5.75 to $10.25;
and good, 813.76 to $15.75: GNU.
¢|~ll,3‘s;wel,°dcholce land pls*
. ; m um an good
5; onlin, use to rl. ’
li ;~§_ v
i- .gi-img

...éé
“S
§Eo'
, “ Only 4,000 Escaped.
LONDON. Oct. 12.-A supplemen-
#sry oilleial War Oillce report regard-
ing Byrisa operations reads: _
_ "Prisoners taken by the Egybytisa
eapeditionary force, exclusive of
#help taken by the Arabs, have risen
tounors than 75,000. li is ostlmstod
w, of the entire strength of the
Kish fourth, seventh and eighth
llllllss not more than 17,000 have
heaped, this llgure including 4,000
' _-"lilly-of the prisoners captured
Vote in a lsmentable state of ex-
h_l\l.stlon. They are receiving such
troatment and attention as is poe-
lllle.” -
 Exit War Chiefs.
AHBTIRDAI, Oct. 13.--Lt.-Gen.
jlohsneh, who recently was spoken of
as»_t.se siiesessor of don. von stein.
Mondeo! he German War Ministry.
he been appointed to that post, so-
cor¢li_ng_-to a despatch resolved here
‘Berlla._
~ mania. of Berlin, fcreshadows
'elective rises.
 onoftwol Ger-
l.'f.::'  c"r':.*a..*“'.‘:
o e 8090 n en
imdb as llnister of War.
~ 1  nevesepsn probally,
refers to Don. Ludendorl and Field
krshelwen Blldeallurs. .vhs re-
~mtiy nsvelsst iaueset their popu-
ty lndsrmeny. \
i 1 a¢}ism¢`o¢ nmisson.
oliimlvs Oct. 18.-_-A ‘grave move-
ment or sirlt leivepsx-ees at oes-
ltantinopis ol such magnitude that
'1 l-till .. ,
_:.°'. _.gp-ir.-.~:‘.:::.i~‘..~.s=u
.cial-lay-llaltlis. ms in 'gms ng.
_ , Olhtllo Railway tillnnsei-
' . "'*'*-* . plligzalliheld e sitting :tuB`ral1tford
llllportant Evellfs Which Hay; 'with'-rB`s'l-1’d to,eon_servation of the
Occurred During the Week. _:1v?s¥?211:f\r::o§u:v.i\m';:i° deTeli‘:io:.m”
struck by an auto driven by c.
T\1°__::\sy Wor'id's lsppgnlsgg an, 'gall  il:_:illrg_nl in tr; hesd.t £-
y oogpuoq _ °_ -Year-o _son o .
had ,M AJ. ?:”“°°  a. arg-shell, oi: si. phones.
,h  fi* 'rheladvasplorlnslnthd
_ ° _ . _ 0! 0" Pesos-s suest. _
l0|ll|`|\O\l.l"l_lfs,|0y-q||¢, ,  mx!
_ morspny, _ .Wilton wssosoid or sunimhon
_ pto___ail>ori roman. mast zom, mqgtiz soldier son psld 1. visit zo
was ki ed in _ _ -
mont. a. sf°N::rT;i§:gt,`.,2¢°bh,,_ _  and  T. Grouohn, or
ham, wg; k_u|e,{m muon ba Sem 27 Ki _eller both died inhide of twenty-
H The dglgss and oil. wsrehouse of '°'.§`_E%'-“;§F Wh "nzlim k
aran '__c[1n _‘f __.___,l1 o vernm mae
edgy 11|-sro' mn W" dum’ .a hrgzcéghépmeut t.hut__ou§'ll1 the Cana-
issl... Las _ ‘ 111811 tiller. emenoverseas.
round degdyin Eognhégapgszoitswgs _~7°lll1 _Hw11on._ 92 years old. died
you; of asm ;t_l;_l:dh_i:nse t_n?_lndsor. Slnc¢;q188l
Hog chow;-9, _gs repo -d 't be 0 een n' eemploy of lram
lillllilg l;_ak_}_l_l_g its appearratsce' ligand   ._._°°___“we d y
aroun . . _ _leon - a s re-
gne, |,e,,,¢°,',‘f,'§' ,,n-mm ,_ mm cently, tho. British nruilory hurled
°V°l` I 11101101. Fornle minors will re- m°r°- m‘n-wan" “Nu °' 'hem °' 4"
turn to work to-day _ “N3” '39 °“
The two m°`o‘on`system ls to be
T110 chief of the German ` lic in i V ~ . .»
Warsaw, pound, hu been Dfhote by illllllnratell. in connection with the
an unidentified" person. ' ' ‘ Km3“°F nf? d°9ll'Ull°11¢. bckillilills
A Polish Legion, ooinposodni-‘diy ~““_°_l'-'ll' 1'! 91 D°°°ll1l1°l‘-
of American Poles, was yesterday re- -. 5-- s.l°"°l1l°l1. 9! U19 L°l14l0l1_N°l'-
celved into the French army. "3" °°u°l°» W9". tm 9"m°1P“| °P°“' '
R"_ Wm L w°_°_d_ “nor of me er___st the annlnl _Brant County
Ngwmuggp _1¢m,,,dw___Chm.¢5_ Med  Institute, held at Brant.
suddenly from a stroke of `aral s. '  
A 'third death has occurrgd lnyzlle L°'d sh5u‘N“‘-’9°7h‘5r°u"°“ “`°m'
gmagm, cam,” N|“,_m_ from mum the presidency of the Canadian Pact-l
env.. Pte. Gillespie, of Stratford, is 5° Rulny- H-T- E- W- B°°“Y» *h°`
the victim. _?_‘_"tte";¢;'Pf;l:ml°nEi;:;k°0 U19 °m'~l°
Barney Belcourt has been sentenc- °“ Y ' m' 9-
ed to be hwgm It Ream, Jan fm. L. Weiner, a Toronto baker, has
the murder of Mrs. Edward Beatty, had M' “°°_n9° " 5 bread bn” un'
new The0d°,.e_  celled by the Canadian Food Board.
R97- D12 BNHS. book steward of Tm” 5k`°‘s"° _.W9 W." *°k°“_ “n M'
tho morhodioi soon Room, Toronto, °°“l““°f ° °°°°“4 °l°l1°° °°mml“°'l|
hos handed in his resignation. no is W  "\Q~!¢'1Sl l¢8“1W°l1°-
32 yen, of qi Two young Leamington men, Ed-
Brig.-Gen. C. A. Doyen, commas- "Va B°'“°"'° “mi Wm* Edmund*
dont of the marine corps camp at w°r° “"“5”°d in w‘”d‘°r Wu”
Quant,w_ vs" _died there, Sund” court charged with stealing an auto
night of mg,,¢n“_ _ from Forrest. Wlgle of Ruthven, two
Orders have been issued from the mmnha °5°' They °“’l"m°d ' ‘Mt
Militia Department authorising the th” Md "ke" the °“" '° °°m° W
formation of a third tank battali winds" t° and W°'k'
for service °ve,.se”_ °n Alleged to be a slacker, Horace
The London 1 Like Eng Ram” Corbett, 26 years old, of Chatham,
& Transportation Co. will cease tg "B wmed °'°" "° me mmwry °'“`
operate-at ,_ _"ry.e“1y date_and_ the _t_hor|tl_es. The arrest resulted from _
_work of scrappi`ng'the road will coin- i”f°ri'""“°“ 3"” “Y Pte' Selby' "h°
mane-9 immedmtell recently returned to Windsor to find
his wife had lied with Corbett, tak-
WEDNESDAY- ‘ ing with hor, it is nudged, $2,000 or
The Toronto Street Railway Co. ls his m°“°Y~
asking for the right to raise the SATURDAY.
fares. John G. Watson, president of the
Rev. Nell Campbell, of Oro, was John Watson Manufacturing Co., died
elected Moderator of the Presbyterian ill ASH' Yesterday after a. short illness.
Synod of Toronto and Kingston, Windham Centre Fair gate re-
meeting in Toronto. _ I _ ceiilts were the _largest taken in by
Dr. Monro, or Smithville, appeared the society for more the-I1 lllty vein-
before Magistrate Campbell on a Over thirty deaths from lniluenxs
charge of haying liquor. other than or pneumonia were reported to the
on his (own prlva e property. He was City' `Clsrk's ollice, Toronto, yester-
assesssd $222. . day.
Word has been recei-ved of the` Mir. J. T. Simmons. s. Tillsonburg
death by accident in Detroit ot,Her- farmer, received information that his
man Rowe, son of Wm. Rowe; Wood- son. Wilfrid, had died of appendicltis
stock. He moved to Detroit about in France.
two years ago. Mr. Charles Norris, one of Bol-
The new Canadian victory loan ton's oldest residents, died there in
was launched. The minimum amount his 87th year. His wife Dredeoellifld
asked is $800,000,000. The rate of llllil four Yell!! 8.50-
interest will be 5% per cent. per The Anglican Church has under-
annual, free from all taxation, taken lb raise ll qlllrtcr OI 8. lhillioll
\ Harry Boosey. sou oi J. M._sossey, dolls-rs by askin: Sunday schools to
barber, of Bt. Cathm-lnes, died Mon- ll1l1'0Yll1l8 V10!!-11'? B011'-18.
dsy from Spa.nish.iniiuensa at Camp Martha Cl-mDb°l1.,N0rlh Bev. will
Sherman, Ohio, where he was in apply to Parliament next session for
training with United _States troops, a divorce from her husband, Henry
Mayor Church of Toronto has ask- James Campbell, Toronto.
sd the Minister of Militia to have the Pte. A. B. Aitken, son of Fire Chief
men or the sihei-inn. Expedition ro- Aitken. of London. OHL. was killed
,moved from _ Niagara to' Toronto, in action on Sept. 27. A brother. Cpl.
'where they om he-properly housed. I-Ierinsn Aitken. was killed in lhy.
Mrs. Delina Bidard ls _in Napanee 1017., _
Jail on s charge'_of murder. She is 'A proclamation will shortly ,I-1° 18'
accused of throwing her illegitimate sued, it is expected, calling all friend-
ilvo months" old ohild into the river ly aliens except Americans. Within
to get rid of it, aeshe could not keep the Dominion. to register for mill-
her job and look after it. lal;_y’__scgi°c- __ F __ must
e cow, which _he was rivl _ e sran or In °"
tooqlgla lit of frensy and atteckgl Rel: has decre:¥that British and French
bon Higgs, an Ailss Grills farmer. 0°ll1l1101'018l l1l‘°P°"|°°» 11913 ill *full*
yesterday snd`go'l-ed him into s sthte during hostilities, must be returned
of uuconsciousness. He was found on to the owners-
the road by his young son. His re- Bert Miller, u Toronto youth, was
eovery is expected. struck down and fatally injured by
Arthur Comley was sentenced at an autoxnobile last night. He had
Stratford to._elght months, andl Geo. been on a visit to his mother, who is
Roovoo to six months, in tho, ontario conllned _to_ s hospital-
.Reformatory on a charge, to which A _scholarship hasbecn founded
they pleaded ,guilt"y. _of assaulting by the executors of the late Henry
ond whois; xorohdw suulutvoek. M- Horsey- °¢ Ottawa- st Qileflltg
and robbing a Chinese restaurant in University, in memory of l-he ld.
_ravntocm lu adggqw nm _ggggivgq .Erie Horsey May, who died of woun
the customery_l_ndet:;mlx;_a°t.e__:e{l_:e1_l_c: ill F`1‘¢ll°°- __
‘of not more sn o .- -
Ontario Reformstory, _ MMV W Q““?
LONDON Dc! 12 ---Au.sh'la-H\lll-
‘ THURSDAY. ' ' '
and._'.l‘ ke h v informed Ger-
. Thi’ l1°P“\*'-‘°“ °‘ Wann", I' sturdy that t§ey}wll‘l :ccept President
9,876, an increase of 1,051 for the wnmm.. neue ,enum wcm.d|“‘ to a
nerrh alll t od comhrdl tho “°°’”°h ‘° "'° c“"""' Nm" 'mm
0 H “D 111' » A terdam.
Csmdi:M___b°1l1l 01° 0"? "°°P° *° n?r-in-soy hu made iwionniio pesos
olltcl' 1 0 17-__ __ , - _~ ‘proposal oPreaident ilson accord'
. ‘“°“.'::::: ;::::.l:2‘:‘.‘..‘Pz trawl: '-1- 1° -we 
umes A mor was rc on o
in a plalgt ii__earHNi;_g_l;rsBI":1lI;_n ___ .Psy-|s‘“1'3ouq\e yssierdsy aftei_-_:gosh
Rev. . . O . --._ ' ht() up bqend _r-
ducted as rector-01 Bt. 'Plaines' All- :dl  'iimif mg Qymmgn
glicsn Church st..-St. Oath nes. ¢¢~|{,“'Nm¢z1- yu.” ‘gg-four Wm",
{:hn___Sl¢l;l~:: 11:;“'°§::f:_°n*'*;‘; 'rumah socdi-mos worg_ln _gognind
lea ers D 0 0 dth in htra ng em.
band. signs v°°"'_;'l_:§‘::_P'g‘r"£he .nwA§if1‘lzyi?ro;.°oo¢. 1|.;-_}>ro:oo-
I-411' °‘"‘°- _ is. _mac _on he vs_-1‘l_° 'lf PY-
peace letters, now declares that war :en~°§§_a»_~m?_Lbnf°n dafatghggl md
must continue until Allies are vis- mfgnn fwéued _fn wumumn ¢°.
torleus. V ' day. liste -Department dllicials ex-
The A1110! 1”°P°l'¢ 1111"" °*""“'°d preesed‘ deep interest in the rellortcll
11,000 orllvsw “'10 20° 1"” °“’° move by tho 'rumah cove.-nmoni,
llll 01° Ufli- “Y °f “W 3*' Q“°““° but stated positively that no pro-
"hlt&.lc- DW N ‘_ Inxmm. at pcsals had reached 010111-
. _ ‘ , ' 
Chuxhill, has received s call to th; ne", Enthqmke shun
gulls: °*“"°" °‘ ‘§‘“‘°""°‘° " vwrolua. s.c., ooi. 12.-r. N.
l'°° U- lliso f th Obse tory at Goll-
llack Sud. I S¥\';;§0?°::|ld“i‘a:is:: we l~iNl°reD0:ts thlrtubeslnnilll at
Nll1l“°°- '" and H h d mg 7.15 o’ciock yesterday morning and
fill' h°"""°¥ '"3"' ° . lasting for live hours severe earth-
peun_ils__:»_:i_h1;‘pDr_:_\:::_:_:. hu jumped 'quake shocks were recon-deil;_ou°th_e
Wil fl h ttbe station. e -
 sane; R. _u_.f_§:¢»_: °°f.t‘{‘n‘_’{f,,§"‘,'{ :§'ilT»°fl§°di:moo oi a.1oo mud..
N00; If _° _ _ .
°~3f."."g$t’°' Sandman a"_°°' ‘M of Germans lhst Leaving Coast. `
F°{-,,', 'o..i..-si cosmos. or tho -.,o1~moN.oo¢. 12.-Loon Allied
Methodist Church has scolded to 1-s__ngnnsisss.noes show that the Ger-l
!_w_“_ _ _ » nu., me ,um of 0.000.000 for mil- nga ham notginlg _nina ln_i_lit:_:'y 1:;
'nll $011011* Ilsd; ltsfias@flll .ibn purposes. The llllll °°"\" ‘ 'fl ‘th 5° uh°,,°“|;_ Th, qgp. sr would give him one he would
l
ltilsmis mn  
lr. .om rlsnlcs
 Designers Exploiting
Fresh Fashions by Use oi
Discarded Materials.
no ourslos HELP nscesslnv
_GailM|‘y No Longer Must Ask What Il
the Fashion, but ls Enabled to Pro-
` duos Sufficient to Supply
the Demand.
New York.--Paris is never handi-
capped in creating fashions by the
actions of other designers. Thst is
why she is powerful. ' America has al-
ways lllIcted_ under this handicap be-
cause she has followed Paris, asserts
a prominent fashion nuihorlty. She
has never been inclined to risk the
exploitation of fabrics, fashions and
coloringa that were not sponsored by
the mother _of fashions.
It ls said ot us that we acknowledge
the best in every nation and bring it
to our shores. We know the best in
every department of urt, science and
llteiihlre. If we ure compelled to put
our knowledge to practical use, we at
least have the best to go on. We are
not ignorant.
The _time has come for this experi-
ment, as we all know, and-the observer
thinks that a few medals of honor
sltoul be distributed to those who
have gone “over the top" in designing
clothes in this country. It took great
commercial courage and it required a
sound knowledge of the American
public. _
what Frdnoo old Amoi-los oo".
'Here are two anecdotes which sc-
cantnate the point. They happened a
dosen years apart. Mme. Paquin saw
several bolts of checked silk in a man-
\lfacturer's hands. Neither the weave,
the coloring nor the design was in
fashion, to quote her own phrase. The
manufacturer complained that he had
‘no call for this quantity of material
and that he would sell it for about
s franc and `a half s yard. Mme. Pn-
quin took it all, went to her salons
on the Rue de is Paix, turned the
cheap check silk into an alluring frock
of her own design, and then wore it
at '.l‘rcuville-by-the-Sea. She made the
frock, the design. the color and the
fabric fashionable. Everyone wanted
-to-wear--wht she wore. She sold
every inch of the material at n price
that brought her unmeasnred profit
on the transaction.
Last month sn American designer
was looking over the stock of s lace
.
|
in
Hsrs's a blue ssrpe osat split up the
sack se make commonplace blue
serpe less inslqnlfioant. There ls a
long eulrsse of colored embroidery
on blue tricot, and the oeat is
slashed to s deep V bsok and front
to display the ylvld undergsrment.
i rtsr. ‘4'Nothlng new,” said the
. mpg
importer. _“Here I am held up with
'ghost nity Spanish lace _scarfs which
I bought at a venture, thinking I could
distribute them in the trade ln Amer
ies, but no one took them. The one
answer was that they are not in
fashion." '
The designer said that if the im-
lssrilssi hyevietersmiallsl- erlodoisvsyesrs ll I ° "1 ‘ M 1|
gr* . D °‘“"| .tuna l3ol:h:recm;lP:llm as .h:;bo::'J`aQt:2dmal`l'a°° t "ltr oitllitgr :c::f:,noaw:dndl‘t)i‘:>n t:l.at
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l
'me bargain was closed. The gown
was designed. It sold immediately.
It was copied so fast that the other
49 scsrfs melted sway like flakes of
soap in hot water. Spanish lace was
oifered as a first fashion.
Thai: is a good example of the
change that has come over the Ameri~
cun merchant und the American de-
signer. We no longer have to ask
what ill the fashion, but sro probably
enabled to make the fashion for our
uwn continent.
Management of Black Taffeta.
It is easy to realize that tsifetahss
:ome into a ilrst summer fashion, al-
though the popular mind does not re-
gard it as one of the lovely weaves'
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One of the new black tsffeta gowns
that is far from commonplace. The
skirt is a series of small ruflles
edged _with white sllk cord and cut
In peg-top fashion. The elim bodice
is mounted on s yoke of tsffeta
braided with white cord, and the
short sleeves are cut In one with the
yoke. There is a pink rose with
green leaves at the waist, and there
are green shoes and stockings.
of the world, because it is plentiful.
There is no trouble about getting all
the taifeta one wgnts. and it is best
that we model our wardrobes for the
near future on the materials that can
be bought in this country in suiilcieni
quantity to correspond to our needs.
Much can be done with this mate-
risl that will result in a gown out of
the ordinary and conspicuous for
:harm nnd clevci-ness. If you could
have seen u woiuiln who clune into a
restaurant for dinner wearing u cer-
tain black tuffeta gown, you would
have been convinced in the twinkling
of an eye 'that the fabric matters noth-
ing if the designer has cleverness.
The skirt was made of narrow
:uflles that extended from waist to
ankles, each rutile edged with u white
silk cord. The hem wus excessively
narrow. The foundation for these
ruilles fitted the figure like a sheath
There was a bodice, straight and sim-
ple, and the major part of it was u
yoke with short sleeves which' was
braided with white cord in s fantastic
design. At the side of the waist was
s deep pink satin rose with green vei-
vet leaves. The slippers and sbosk-
lugs were green. There was nothing
de-more about this black taffeta gown.
Treat Blue Berge ln Various Ways.
Blue serge is ii fabric that will al-
ways be with us, us fur us the muuu-
facturers and the wsr board can look
ahead.
It is usually midnight blue, and,
given s few ynrds of it in this color,
the designers do not want to sit down
-md turn ii out into insignificant
frocks and inconspicuous suits.
A woman who crime to u "defense"
luncheon one duy wore a blue serge
gown that was the product of a clever
designer and it surely turned our
ideas about suits topsy-turvy.
The coat was spilt up the back as
well as the front. It wus worn over il
long culrass blouse, the kind that
gains in importance every day. The
blouse was made of n richly embroid-
ered tricot in blue, black nnd dashes
of dull red. It diil not cling tightly to
the figure, but outlined it more than
usual. Over it hung the loose blue
serge cost, opening in a deep V in the
middle of the front and the bluck. It
was closed at the neckline and had s
collar of the surge. There was s loose
belt of the insterlnl, and the skirt
was exceedingly narrow nnd short.
By the way, it is wise for any wom-
an who orders a new suit today to ses
that the skirt has a sizeable hem, for
the new order to the shoemakers.
given by the government, which de~
mands low shoes for the duration ol
the war. may change the skirt length
I doubt lt. The length may bl
changed, but it will not be because ol
the low shoes, for galters. 'which are
made of fabric, may be as high as
desired, and women prefer them to
high boots.
We may also adopt the French fash-
ion of wearing serviceable Oxford ties
with straight heels and rounded toes
The bootlsakars say they have more
orders for these today than ever. With
such shoestho avenge woman doe!
not care whether her skirt is eight
or ten inches from the ground, unless
she is given to sdlerlng from exposed
snkles.' ' -' ‘ '
(copyright, itll. 'sr the stoolule Itewmo
__._, Ill III!-looted __ __
...__ ov'-o
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considerable comment has been
made over the attractive appearance
of this wrap. Vivid amethyst and
Australian rsccoen combine to make
this long-waisted evening or afternoon
garment.
BUTTONS FROM NECK T0 HEEL
Closing Gown Down Back an ldss Ors-
ated by Designer Aided by
Smart Woman.
Primitive drapiug is in high fashion.
And right against lt, sitting in the
same room with it and exploiting it-
self quite ns proudly and successfully.
snys a fashion correspondent, will be
n gown that is fastened with bone
buttons from the naps of the neck to
the turn of the heel.
It is pure perverseness to employ a
line of buttons down the back of n
l’rock_ The entire world of. fashion
was stimulating itself to the utmost
to provide new wuys with ancient
ideas. It was on thc cards that we
would drape ourselves in different
ways. Then some designer. aided by a
smart woman, mnde n tight bodice to
s frock, buttoned ull the way down
the back, and added a Japanese bow
st the wulstlinc.
What was the result? Huge bows
nnd tight bodices, smoothly pulled
across the bust nnd sinking in over
the diaphragm, became an exalted
fashion.
Perhaps it was panic, and not per-
verseness, that created this gown. It
takes u skillful hand to wrap material
around the body in a graceful manner,
und we have not the art of the primi-
tives. A modest woman has s right to
rlemnnd that this drapery be well put
together before she appears in it in
public, to dance, to dino or to walk.
The Japanese womuu cun wind her
sarong ilhout her hips, :ind other an-
cient races can tie invisible knots in
material to keep it modestly in place,
but we are used to hooks and eyes,
buckles and buttons, and we are s bit
afraid to go abroad in something that
depends upon our skill in tying knots
to keep us from being naked and
ashamed.
HERE’S A NOVEL SLEEVE IDEA
Clever Girl Offers Valuable luggee-
tlons for the Woman Who Makes ~
Her Own Clothes.
Are you decided on the sleeve of
your new frock? p Of course. yon are
undecided. Everyone is when it comes
to sleeves; because they are such td*
ribly important things. As a mattsl'
of fact. most of the dress interest and
individuality. center shnut the sleeve.
One clover girl offers this suggestion:
Make the conventional not-toe-loose
fir not-too-tight elbow-lmgth sleeves.
Now cut from the same material, or
contrasting, should you prefer, two
squares. A "hole" in the middle of
each provides if hand entrance. After
that you tack escb corner of the square
to the sleeve proper, and you have
achieved enviable ellie. Other awfully
clever ideas can grow from this one.
For instance, you are making a tunic
blor' 9 of two colors of chiion or geor-
gette. In that case you will use the
two colors on your two-piece sleeve.
Also fetching trimming will
itself. What _do yon_eay to &
the corners back with little glass buh
tons, or iluishing off with two slsndt'
tsmls fore and aft of the arm!
On your lingzdrmaynltlt
tnattilofoor
a border ofdl i
--_~.-_»_-we
as
it
'niccoou Porutin rms vein ~_a,,,,_.s. M,” 1851;. 
_ \lmp|lcl\¥'BllonId Rule lvdt 'ill _lm
-_ ments for “Drses.Up" Occasiona-
__A\N!f.!!fl1\. Economy lleoslary.
1“0f_"d~ll-op" °¢mionsl.tbe sms
:Y£°rc`e__u_lre two orumore sits of Ill-
_ erwesr, n so-e cersqsnd-
:gl-l  _:_lwuld- bo.ssnp||..llleds` ie
7°~ 9 _ ”‘*U“¥~. _lslldllllll-'
'1`“""l1l11¢'_ my be  homemade
edgings, feather sutm _rich-seek
braid or.-one-of~thr 'o'-lamps;
or emo: exists.  be
‘lf Whit! and mono ot-spsllaorssh
erdlne in_,_the severe: on ecs_ styles,
or of muslin l_n a softer  showing
gathers and frills.
The “dress-lip" Deeds of the boy cl
seven and over are fully mot by a two-
plece suit _of Canadian twecd, with |.\'at
or cap to match. Shirt wallll ol' shirts
of striped mndrss are worn with his
Suit The younger bore “Snnds»y"snit
can be u shirt-waist one, tI|s= panti-
l00i1B. which buttonto the. wlllt, be-
ing made of eithfr Wll_l_l_lbU material;
or serge. He wlllneed  east.
Wartime ecmiomy will sllg'i&t that
as many ss possible of these garnlenh
be made from.socond-hanllmaterlal.
;l`h¢;=__indl_i;pensable :_weatsrcsat,may he
us one from a lscssded In-Q
one by redying and cnttingxlr oil.
Boys' shirt walets may be made mem
the best parts of iaen's discarded
shirts, whlchllo “WMU I 01501
material. A womsn‘s cloth. skirt will
make knickers for the qlsil boy Q
bloomers or skirt for the girl.
In buying new materials avoid loose
colors. Lavenders, greens and blues
cannot be relied upon.
FROCKS FUR LITTLE MISSES
Old-Fashioned Callco and Orohrlm is
| Being Used to Good Adllsn&
for Olrls'.Appar¢l.
Frocks and the most
tie aprons for little gir
shown inthe shops devslopsd in ell-
tnshloned calico and flowered me-
tonne. Dresses for the older genus-
tion were shown in alice some time
ago. but it seems a msbsrial which
is particularly well salted to the -all
girl because of its strength and is
brilliant colors in which it appears.
One dress, for emsm
in bright yellow
round 'neck is
and finished
several of w
the side of
other trim ' _
- An odd
in s deep
wllite. It
tie white repp
with the ealioo, U
old~fssblonsd ladies
pllqusd on.
The figured voll
seller at present a
tlful models in
in for a great deal of
The newest thing shown
ric is u frock for s very
lt is of white organdie wi
round collar and turned
of the some material in la
feather stitched in royal
tied with perky little
ribbon-Nugent’s.
SILK JERSEY F-‘OR SUHUEB
1
il
fggériég
5 _gag .giggi l-ig?
l=§_‘§f`="’ ‘§‘ ‘ill ill ii
liliisif iii $115.5 lull!
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