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Asorwtsr

Fashion

A w°Q§§|¥ `l_-Qtfiil' from _ Nia)-ig Loup A

An arrangement has been msg,

with Madame Marie Loup. who is sn artist and designer, to "ng each week during the Winter for Ulll l°°¢|0ll. s letter from Paris.

Paris, November 17, 1918.

HERE has been 'lt great deal said

about "Le Minaret.” the Persian

M drama. ana Paul Polret. ure

clever costume designer. Bug the ."4 li “Oi Yet. tor the influence of the mln- eret costume will be felt the world over by the fashionable woman. The tunic,

wired or tlxht. l0lla' or short, is the san-

sation of the season. and I hear it has

- i.

-'L_ -li

HE more scarce furs become, the

$ors in demand they seem to .lm,

m_“__ D M? -"°l}l' there is no limit to the sr' ii' Q of "““"‘Y Ind quantity; turn

I4; _terally worn by the yard.

" _""“`”“‘>' possible to sive the

Preference lo any one fur' all sro' uscll in profusion. Wllsreos formerly a ‘ _ ' »

Izumi" Cflntented herst-:if with one limitl- knmekee' With P=‘l'|'H\l1s an olll set for

°° `*°°“'~ “°“'adHys. to be really

fnshionalile. my lady wants ti muff nnql

fdfktglece' a “"" “°°¢. mul some sort of ____‘ ‘"""‘“e=‘ “lj vvcrv suit mln :mul

0 Possesses, from trnttolr skirt to

evening gown.

co'l`_hfdre ls an iilcrcaslllg tendency to

s _er the fur ns n definite pm-1 Gr the

trimming. as for iltstullre. on rt com °f WMM’ the ‘WFP Cuffs and flat t-ollgtr “PB Of lllr. the collar helm! so large

A rskish hovrsnd s trill of gray squir- rel adorn In otherwise sober-minded muff of Persianiumb, A similar bow llllliesrs on the collsrette. A bbw ol' another fur or of ribbon or of ch|lfon.'or 'porhhps ll hugl- artl. _llcial flovfer. ls Deed ou nearly every muff and scarf. This dccoratllin is lllways or a contrasting color or mule- rinl. The lar-se llliiau-anon to the right is

an excellent lihporléll exnmhlo of lm; craze for hows.

» - .

E\'l‘lllY few yours rt-ll fox 'log n rl..

newal'ot favor null it is in the

|lf‘lBll¢ Uf lla 8|0l'y this sc-nlion when dll shades of red and §'ell`nu' tire ills-nl).-d in true .`f\utllmllal llnrnloliicn. it ll? 959,, on mui‘i's and copes of orange \-giver, This coxillllllstion is 'rl curious lun most

I

taken the American woman by storm.

It will be interesting to see what this Practical creature will evolve from the lllflarently impossible combination of “lamp shade tunics and trowser-like skirts." The solution of this problem. however, has been worked' out in such a marvelous manner that one is filled with wonder at the skill of the cou- turler. Taken' up as it was by the fashionabies at Deauville. the success of the tunic was assured. But enough of the tunic, tor the present at least.

Two Materials Used.

The newest dresses have a clever com-

bination of- at least two m'ateriais. So the woman who has several dresses from the previous season can make them over without the ruse being ap- parent.

Winter Suits. The lines of the Winter suits are very

different ‘from those of last year. The skirts are hung with the folds in front. giving the appearance of divided skirts. And the coats have the bolero effect. opening over a vest front and crossed by a wide folded sash. A suit of black cloth was made after this fashion with a. white satin sash and the vest of white satin embroidered in s Javanese design in worsted._

The Hlrlingo" Petticoat.

Quite the newest thing ij the Delilvpflf line is the “'l‘anso." _I_t l made 01 ¢“'° widths, ths seams at the sides, slit to the knee.

Evening Wraps.

A word to you about thc evcnlnli

Wraps, they continue to astoulsh one in richness of materials. Velvet lm-lcrxdca with backgrounds of tlnsol or of vivid satin, of chiffon or of vollo. nrt- all used for these gorgeous and artistic Kilrments.-~ _ _ . _ _

The sleeves, like those of the §u\‘.'ri§.

are often just a slit in the ample folds accentuated by it cliff. or facinlr.

The deep blue hues such as liurk navy

blue. midnight blue and corbeau hrs replacing the popular black for these Wrlips.

Yellow is used to trim gowns. WFHIJS.

and mlllinery and ls even used for whole f_rocks. A frnck by Martial et Armand was mode of gold satin with s. tunic of four rulries of brown tulle. Tulle formed the bodice. and the armholea were ol' brown fur. A most beautiful restaurant gown by Georsefle Wai m*“|l‘ of black velvet. The skirt was intricate- ly draped to form two tunica: the bodice. aquriro cut, was formed of black and gold embroidery.

The New Complexion.

It is a relief io know that the dead

white face will not be fashionable this year. It is replaced_by a more natural color and o. slight flush on tha cheeks. The eychrows and lashes are still dark- ened to enhance the lustro and lines of the eyes.

Black velvet' patches will sllll be worn. War; ones the also of a Pill hella and or course the lip pencil has lJ6¢°me s necessity.

More anon-ma cherie.

MARIE LOUI-‘.

._..__.§---

NDVELTIES IN NECKWEAR

lt was inevltnhle. considering the craze

.for fur trimmings this season. that even neckwear should be mllde Wm* f‘“"'°W bands of skunk and fox. Ye: it is ll pretty fad- The b°Sf_*hl“S°

in neckwear novelties. are high necketl styles, with full-fichus. the whole edied Wm, "ny gm- bmdings, As line lace and hand-embroidered tulle are used. this contrast is excellent. A clever arrllilemélli ‘B 5 "V“““y Band" no more nor less than a Medici collar. very hllli ll_i the back and held in close to the melt. by a black "emi band, enclrclills ihl throat. They lay this gives the sltln of the neck a D6-'

li llky luster. the aim of every

cu sr m woman. lt also sccerltuates the profile.

to

giving a little plqunnt expression

the lace. Another novelty. Wllklh Wm b° NW' ld up strong for holiday selling b! UW big shops, will be I. band of novelty rlnnen, edged with fur, fastened at the left sias of the neck. under fl "ll f‘"‘ “IM hom vrhlg is to wear with wsim or cost suits. ll "\"*“‘Y “""‘"'

.____...._-4 -- QAITII PITTIOOATI.

Ag gm; tim( it WI! thoulhf l°5|°“’

` ld b attaches to

un: "3" [reset has become tele orsse for slim hills lhll I‘°*“°°:‘_::

ns," "gn midi to hsns fl‘°‘“ ku". loundsxrldieulous. but it is I0-

madfsome “Garter Petti-

- gf ‘ily inode in two iiounces.

qi Q sed chiffon with the over 8 of shadow isse. They are st-

' ‘gabters at the ton. rut srouna

V ggwght, for has they

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as to be almost as capaclous and quite ss warm as a separate stole.

When the fur set is separate. more

than one fur is used. and it is not un~ common to see tlireo kinds of fur on one lrlufi' and collar. Uwllrlrd skin and erlnlne are tho two

trimmings lnosif used upon tho darker furs and many curious ei'l'ecls ltr.-pear as

a consequence; to illustrate, a hand of white ermlue may cross llialzollnlly |.\ severe looking mole sltin lnu'l'. Smur- ilmcs tt little row ol’ tolls in added. but these urs always on the nluif, in no cnso flflllilllrig below the ulilfi’ or stole.

» o »

LEOPARD-SKIN costs are worn a

great deal for motoring on cvculug

wear. both for women and clllldl-cu. These usually have s. deep collar and cuffs of Persian lamb or lynx or solnu other dark fur.

s1'itli>i-:D AND Putin sASi-l

The dash. which so many of the lst-

est French costumes have. partit-:liarly those worn on the streets--is chiefly due to their flashes. Modest affairs are these accessories-always broad strips of plaited worsetd braid. llulshcd with s netted and tied fringe. in several shades of plalted tnrfeta ribbon with ends biased off and overcast that they shall not ravel. or of Roman stripe-_l sittin ribbon with ends hemmed an-l heavily weighted that they shall not curl under. Tho sash usually tow# straight about the waist and at the left front plal|\'y and flatly over-laps itself. the longer emi usually cxtendlllz to the knees. it is never bowed. With a dork-hued tailored suit. there l-1 nothing more cheering these dull Au- tumn dnys than one ol' these brlKhU)'~ shaded sllslies. its presence lends dis- tinct chic to the costume of yesterycnr. .md its cost ls little. 'fry lt. ltlrlei

4-f.--».--

Vsnilla Telly. M4 together oils imlhcuptul or water

and apound of lrimuiatdd sugar; put ovsr s iirs and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then add about one-eighth of s teaspnonful sf cream of tartar. srul boil until it reaches the "crsclt" de- rrss. Pour into well grossed. shallow pus ts esol. When partly cold tslm

3# #_ ski other flsvorlns if you

stlilklnlr success, linll is utlilzod lu sev- eral clo\‘cl' wn_\'n by ex--lual\-s dnlrlm-,;_ Tn one case. the fox skin is laid right

urer tile rcivct milfr as tliouitli it \\'-:re liung over the buck oi' n chair llnll tlic sllreatl-out skin is rsicll in lnilcll tlin same way on the oilolllllcr <-tips. wi..." 'lift this rnpc looks fur :lil lilo \\'orl'l like one nf thn nlfl-fnslliciucll fur rules with bright. colored borders we "gud to see.

I C C

V m.v'E'r sleeves of iii.-wk rl r fl url-on '_ colored Kown ure nnotllcr noi-ul fashion of wliil-ll ann of the now import- c`:l gowns shown hole is li goall exltnlpla The gown itself is lu une of the new shades of red llntl the sharp contrast between the rel] and black is softened by the klmonli cfiecl of llulitnrinn eul- broidery. Tlie jnunly velvet lint cur- revnonds with the sleeves, and in :lui case. lynx fur borders tho tunic.

Bakst, Successor to Poiret §§_ |

\ _ E 5-

I"°f "villas wear. the nal scarf and

milf! 'form nll attractive tl-in when they corrcspolul. /it the top oz me Dale ll h 'l_t'racel'\il example of‘th||l ld". The muff._sloie and lull nm mad., of

llrdlize clll!|on_ ylulpell with mink. A "'°‘""" "°“‘"\S¢ IS Elven by the purple rose in tht- hilt nnli lu the muff.

In the snmil --il-<-lliur liillsmltiull. the

i'l'lll around the lwrk is rnrl, thc fur if, mflfk _|.\'nx linll the limv is bill-‘k ril-lion

FURS l|.\"‘fl l0 c\'Pi'y lirllllnnt lille are

l_"‘lY\if iliislit-d to llic furo. iintl wlllic-

Ul<'_\' will llc \\'ilru tl lircllt lil-lil. es-

i’L"`lL\||_v \\'iili tile gorgcriii.~i evening “"'UDH. lllvy will he worn more by those ‘V710 "Hn afford more than one fur get and who not-tl not wear a sci more thnn one smisuli. 'i`li»=y are n rellcl' lrllln the sonlewliat somber lilies of the natliral skin when iiuull with an artistic sense.

of ggg '3'-'*’ Df and Fur Ti‘~'_il11_n1ii1g,g_

WW.

‘I ° S°°d`°vn0`rtoilltyi-fte.=s|e ' ' ` Dieces of fur in new *Fl one cue’ 1 snot' 'i'»t`_'tlli§§i'§#,_tsu_s '

duced,' _s_ft_er.'|`§mi'. _‘

round n\ink‘ collar fait# :MIL H

trimmedhwith lhfnkf Tooth* jp the

rvwde. .tn om mul: or level; the roi-_ honelc-only rmsll _onli ll slum cape yielded lnateriai to's.ad to s '4 coat a necessary fur lppeflj/i\_l['l,» _T mul! was oblong with s. di' ciolll having lu spex it tin‘wn.<'»'r _ two small' triangles stench me. for ' ing the souiiri l£or'tl'er_`s'fture of mink, f

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As is natural. marsbou and oetr' trimmings are much used. especially the sheer fabrics fbi' `0vsnin¢ w _

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Fitch is mlvlnl; o tleclaf-li lrlomim nu.-

year, of which the Impcrizil Russian skins are velgv beautiful lllul costly. The whole skins sro ilslinlly um-ll In thcse sets and it takes four or live to nizlkc it good-sized muff.

One l-an gzct li ve-:'_\‘ Knoll-lnckinlr ect in German litcil, which unless laid side by side with the Russian skins. are very hard to tllstlnguisli from tlic liner va- riety.

Ermlne and chlnchllln arc used prin- cipally as n trimming for outer furs nowadays. Both ore loo scarce tdbv nvaiiable for nn entire set of the sizes:

now in vokue _ _

U O C

THERE is as yet littlc sign of the

llimlrlullou ln the site cf zuuffl. and

since it is lt season of patchwork. it

E Roi est mort. Vivo lo Roi!

M Paul Poirot has come and irons

Leon ilakst aiivccetis him to the

tlimflo of public attention. ill- is lwrc Wllh an exhibition of his desirxlill and with the enchanting Pavlovo to rccolvc at the opening.

The Amcrlcnn public is in-kit-_ snfi

these mon may 'bo l'or:,'ottcn_Ilel'ore tilt-_-~ have fairly lfeturucd to tilt- niwuys ur- prcciatlve Paris. But sllnll we not be willing to receive their criticism ln nr- der to study at first hand tllclr crou- tions?

~ tes

Their poslthn ls unique; so while they aro dlffeNlll'_en_ough irolu cilcll ollicr. We may think oi' tiiom togclller, Ellcli has emsysd the dlllleult task or atiornlu-.t worrilll. each has gone irnlu 1-iustcrn Europtte Egypt, and dually to the eil. trims Orlellt for his inspiration

Both were originally painters mm hivsths ftltidsmenlsl knowledge of 'Jie artist to g-lids them. hui. while Poll-ri mst s ltulfe to have his ueaolirulu- clothed vlolucn propel-ly seen. arrived sl etllsliis them for un opportunity. anim. sits un mms tl me limi...

.

4

lmiict to his credit, has come to cos- tilming_the woman in our midst.

` e e o_ ‘

Madame Pnquln to her nwn BTW*

Ilcncflt has opened her atellers to him-

-l iron: the combination there has

both launched in Psris h. collection nf guulis. second only to Poiret's. it we slzould he so bold as to judge.

I s s

Polvct`s gowns suggest repose, the

nerioct balnnco of great masses of colur; and the long simple llncs. even when in motion have something of the sculp- tiuestlue about them. Bakst ls as ini lroiu this as it is possible to lfriaSlnc. lie clothes a woman so that motion is suaseotl.-ll even while she is stlil. lnnlmlcrulrle repetitions aml`an endless vllr.c\,\.' of subtle cixtttlasts form the lieyiinto of his inspiration. Bmlli gihnosos ul flesh, masses of jewels hal! hidden in the hair. ovcrlnpplng folds ol chiffon and lohg scarf ends, hutvy with metallic embroidery. arc sunm of the lllsans he uses to obtain richness of nf- fect.

I O I

Lille every ltrlist. his point of view is

biased. as conceived by the casual ob-

server. l-`oi' years he has llcslgned col- tumcs for the Russian bnllct, and it is not likely that the average woman hu the skill in manipulating the tiraperlss which ite has used for expression.

» ~ u

An arlmirer of Whistler once said to

him; “i saw a moonlight effect nn the river that was exactly like one of your pictures." Whistler replied; "Nnture is ilnpruvinlr," and so, it may be that women will have to become lnorc skilled in the art of wearing their clothes hc- fors they can be successful with it Bskst or I’oiret_

O I I

Poirot left America with a cruel thrust

:it the American woman. “She is slald. matter-of-fncl. not susceptible to emo- tion; she does not express her tempsra~ ment and har individuality in her dress" ‘lhcso were his last words before sall- ing. On the other hand, it will not be lurprlslng if Ballet should find the American women most sympathetic. Dancing is half the world to him, and if there is one time when the Anlefioltt woman forgets her Puritan ancestry, it is at the dance.

Le Roi est nlort, Vive le Roi! Ilsltsi may do what i'oll-ct hns failed to do. ln dressing his lianrors he had never r'onslilerl»li snytillng iiul "trnwscrs." What can lic iuorc sultnlile for tlinsol nnil slillos! Rui. thc line of footllghts Beflnlvlten two wr-i-ills and our latest innovator lully not try io do too much.

Bniuit’a llnliut ns a creator of fashions

is vlui\pni'i\tl\e\y rect-nt_ ills first suc- cess wus with thc pl-orliivtions ol' Cleo- patra nnd ldchclil-rnznrlc, i’l\ris was mtllt enthusiastic. llcsillcn dcliiltulnll the coe- tumes nnfl aettluirs of those productions he has assisted lu thc nl-tunl production.

'ras sxsnn-ron ltsscor

’l`i\c faluiiy skeleton rt-fuses to rv.- lualn 'clnsl-.it-ll. it is everywhere about the holla#-. ¢~_~pl\<-inlly lu the lien. where It ails aetrllle nf pipe-linndles and plpi melts, In the librl\ry_ where it workl as lt psporwclghi. and in my lndy‘s cham- ber. whore it lollllgra on inc padded lid of a make-up hux_ in fncl. the family skeleton is s niascot silpposefi to brlu good luck instead of tnortlllustlon. and in gun metal with gold or silver joints. it ls considered rather artistic. At all events. itll biplcslloh `ls‘clie!f'y.`afld it booms through deep-sst. jeweled eyes upon sli who an is the boms._

Searls of fio lured chiffon! bordered one or the other. an very boalttltul, I _ "N nEsl>s:c'r_to nuts.. luis us*

both for day and evenliii Weir!

'rom °~ simmer crown ls_ qflpn" gf fur to match that on the float or 3 I think of an example in cllinalillll dress wear. xt is simply s'rmi`sd of fur. edged with s deep bordq-'gf ‘ il lace, hanging nr' dvlf sides and hack and gathered lip to Q point in front. » - ' ‘ since s high trimming et some *_ essential. on the smsllturbans ' t

wsllr, al stlfr wing dffur fur trimming is used. A' _ _ _

close-fitting srfsir of seslsltla ear.. row linear imollra -lun snillhd, seg. and two loops' or tus skin; se¢1s.¢“'.`¢,__ fastened with an oriental 6ls_#.’ _,

""‘“`\`ii _

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rm. for owen; '

since most of me nloaern esdj of a strenuous character, accelerate blood circulation, it In necessary for the dlliillfll ‘ lo have e nn sttsehed to lg ` '

rllufe`lllllle,` but it should ___ small one lest lt ict ill hlf _ . - _ .~‘ complaint en' the score of ll Il; `j. lodged sgainlt the new NM ll". " measure barely tavsil llicble Mil '_

and when opened ara A ihches across. Thilr ap

of plumsle so cleverly '

ills sua, when ncaa ls

the ivory sticks. eppeers to

birds of every fifnllld

represented as will is

must beburely lfiilllsliff

lovely and they coms`fh -

conrwiln any stoning' mqusiiy sim`¢ll_v»__ ln ilu Q

youll; dirll are the lov _ _ __,

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ivory or nlotlitr-ot-pt_|11_` ` does cereals isrlnilis _ _

of llllu-n or chiffon _ _ _,nl L »_. £4 um ol aulcm nlstié. _,

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