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__. ___i

11( choosing s. raincoat, lst service

H “ig mimhiuty govern your choice.

5_5 wisely it is necessary

mn you “gems” acquainted with the m’ats`risls used in the make- lln of this necessary asset to _the ward- ,'.;,|,',; yumnys changes do not effect

'gy{§‘.¢y'i5_ 9': raincoats to any lresl 61° '

tent," t'i‘ie“'usnel :neue being there! liege, 'simple lines.-“ “ ` _ Each' season, however. _llrlnxl mln? new materials or the rsinsi-wt ve- l-i`¢"ty.» `,‘1`he new Psris rsincioaks src made in a very tllin leather, which closely resembles glove kid. This ms.- terisl is rneae reins-moe: by v- special process, and it is eitremely attractive- gnjqeg ellis, it is so lllhf Uf ¢“¢“'° that it can be worn without the slight- est inconvenience. ‘ ` gum, of the l-eincoats of the French leather are in lovely odd new colors: e new shade, lmow|l‘s.s "violet monsll- naur," is green-blue, a new red Whiitll might lie called puce, and il vale twine shade. “" ` ,

` li Q G

EVERAL new makes of taffetas,

`||,5w¢¢-.proof, if not actually water- proof. sre in favor for light wear. This material was popular at the ileashore during the Summer. '

The most popular fabric for rainc

coats this Autumn, however,-is mohair sicilian. This comes in all colors. il

particularly serviceable. and readily lends. itself tothe taioi-ed lines ot the suit beneath. _ "Rubberised chnrmeuse is another mnterial used for the higher classes of rainy-day garments. This fabric makes up into coats serviceable for other uses than es protection from stormy weath- er.

Another material largely used by mo-

torist and the ordinary traveling public is rubberized twced which is not only waterproof but is serviceable for or- dinary wear when a long cloak- is re- quired. It is decidedly swagger and sv- cry "out-of-doul"’ girl or woman will like it.

(iaberdii-le, Donegal tweeds, silk Can-

toll, caflt0n~cloths. Bombay cloths, cot-

ton poplins. shepherd plaids. bomespun. silk and wool covert cloths, and cash- mere are fashionable materials much in evidence in the season's offerings of ralncoats.

Q 0 Q

S INCE fashion has called forth three-

_ quarter length garments the lat- cst models are cut in this length. .Some _

- -emsslirufs-'inefsiilsn' style. win. fznll

loose backsfotilers showthe belt across the back and still( others are develop- ed in Norfolk style. f

ln the full length coats, there is the

'slip-on gnrment cut on English lines with raglan shoulders, and there ls

the simpler tailored cfcat. Many of these show novel bolt tea tires, convertible u,iin.rs and storm cuffs. One of them displays a use of patch pockets while nthcrs show pockets inset, with flaps so button over on the outside.

Some of the more expensive garments

nrc semi-lined with fancy plaid siiks, the same silk being used as trimmings on the coat itself.

Scotch tweed garments are partially

lined with decidedly fancy, contrasts ing silk, with buttons, reveres, belts, cuffs, pocket flaps and large hood of the same pattern. Simple bone buttons, are used on the

raincoats often in colors to match the shade of the material employed in the melts of the coat. ` V

Openings with rounded corners, sis-

ter to the ubiquitous slit, are not ,is Dopular ss those which preserve the

llrhisht line of the hem. '

'A few raincoats have the usual slit at each side. but it,is not popular, prob- 0~_\1ly because it is for rainy dsys.

__.____*,_l___ ONE-END BABIES

0“°'!\\4 lBIh°s are smong the smsrt

accessories introduced for young girls- d““°’“l' ‘°h°°|_fl‘°'i¢l- The sashes are ~'““d° "ml \>P°Hd slain or fancy ribbon that goes round the wsist in three deep folds aild ut the back lips over the top ofa single emi-maae separately-of tile same ribbon. One 'prbtty novelty ¢s|,. sists of two strands of the sash nb- bon set straight 'under the bstvs leon. but gradually tapering- by mggm gf fan-like folds to a sharp point st the knees. This model is developed in either plain, flowered or striped ribbbn, and a

'very pretty sash shows the-stripes com- 'ing at either side of the plain center. while ‘in another sash, N strip of flow- ered silk comes between two plain folds. The ssfhe idea is carried out in a square sash end 'whosef top. edge goes half across the back of the belt. Very unique

is o trixglaend that makes a st'ral‘ghl line do the left hip at the back and a eisgonsi line lreinjilnfi-._ in »¢ne'»i¢ii¢ suit of the sestrs girdle.

» __ _ ‘ .

IAUE GAITEB TOPS

_ ii '- ‘ . .

Lace llitsrs are the`newest wrinkle in toss for nne shoes. 'rhey are of white new irish mesh everisia with spoiled white medallions, and are fastened at oils side'-of the ankle witll~s~'l-ow of ist-ie, not lte,i»n.rl mittens stung buttdnbblss fnbroidered in the lace. ,il- niousli I is i-other 1 train. my 'minute slismntisi. uns nnnse many Q of wilitrss‘itis»-tops, ess be easily Qelgssti. ‘ _But 'thu see .activ- »-tionstiy ‘ nstyueemss' sua only .suit- able Nltllft-till!!! of s tutns. "S ” . “ ""

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The neon .lun is with ns sum. out

it comes ss the dnlntiest creation of 'chiffon lace which in no way suggests the solid rotundity of its wire anoes- try. The fllmy wired minai-et tunic is wc-rn over a gown ot charmeuse or sat- in and stands out stliiiy above the cling- ing drapery nf'the sllirt. '

Paul Poirot. tho daring Parisian rsvo-.

llltlonlst in women's fashions. has in- troduced this insovatinn ,ln many 'of bill svenins gowns. A pretty model suitable for the debutante is made of white chsrmeuse with slightly draped ulflrt. and a front slash at the hem, over this. th0 wire tunic of white chif-

fun, trimmed with tiny rose buds, is >

worn. ‘ '

'1'he effect of this gown is very much ' like that uf .a dainty lamp shade,

which shows the slendel-ist possible silhouette through its trshsplrent meshes.

American women are now wesrins'

this gown, and it is a. matter of some conjecture as to how it can be prac- tically adapted to every' diy use. Al- though the tunic is made over a supple wire it is sure to cause swltward mo- ments.

.____.__§___..__..._

T0 WEIGHT BAIHES '

Now that ssshos promise to be so

popular this season, the idea which one girl found very helpful in weighting these long ends, should be passed on to others. She took a penny and encased it in the same color silk she intended for the sash, and than attached it nelr to the end. Ehe then had an original, but very satisfactory weight for esoh sash end. V. _ I H

‘lit /’

’ This _very dressy afternoon coat is made of royal ~blue broadcloth. White fox fur trims the collar and cui’is.~ The vest and lower part of the cuffs are made of_ black satin. The but-

tons are made of blue broadcl oth. ,

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. -___ _________'

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PRESENT srvuas sulisii

in Tile SHORT nilnl

H _ .

ERI-IAPS there is no one who

W pussies and worries more \o\'er

the questioner designs in clothes

than the short woman or girl Wh° I0 srdently longs' for the graceful lines of her tail and dignified sister. Bill. surely oni 'looking around the shops this season ons is almost inclined to believe that Dame Fashion had' spe- cially this very same woman in mind. when elle ,so thoughtfully designed the new gown and blouse with its. loril’ pdintel opening; the separate waist- coat; the always graceful sash; the noticeable front trimming; tilts point- ee eoilsi~‘sns the elm-minsiv graceful

ils ~ilchus

fri and . ~ » . 'l‘he~r¢|ssd waist' line. too. is shown

on mlnyfytif the intent Plirll models. and s* littlmister, in the season prom- ises te rival the ions hip, waist seen so rnucli ani-ing'1sn ssl-ly ii-ali; '

Each and all of‘thess‘ points shown ln the newest design# belong to the lit- tle women, slthoiign='sb_e‘1l_lould. excont ln ms' sues. eosiftlie ions and unwe-

znlly clinging ' aeillleit skin. ,mf leave

the tunies snll»'ilestlees'~to her tsiief hstei-,‘~wiio ssh so deli osri-y oft tneso

.w]”_ ,-»‘ ii. l~;.`_ “ `. 'Iii wn 6r‘ use desisned with

i e I0 `|°e'¢~ nent epeninihshs- high sa-ill rislns

-in~-the lnorin ‘nleeeniises slisstnthsn sms snsissnissws ‘sail aids of s hint!-‘ sliiisstess rolls of ‘waistcoat

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when worn_ by a shortgirl lends io make her appear tailer‘than she is, and somehow _this soft and _attractive nec: fixing just suits but face and manners.

The pretty sash. whlbh this your promises to outdo 'eil"fo`i‘nier sashes. when draped high at the waist, and l-it fall *at the front - Dr’ left side, gives ie the weerei- s decidedly teller ana more dignllled look. 'The sash truly ba- longs to the little woman. as does also the attradtlve flchu falling gracefully over the'shouiders and brought to a deep V in front. » _

In fact, sil‘ this sesson's neck fixings seem to become this woman of snort

stature. The colisrless blouse. which..

promises to *reign supreme this Winter, is il reaimnen te the gm” in qnesnqnz Cut in either V or U shape it tends fo give the lslcltlng appearance cf height, while the bsfsness of the throat -'is iholt becoming tothe girl who cannot stand s higncollsr. And after eil.. s ceiisi- to lie stylish and trim looking must be high and well curved. there- fore, it reslly belongs to the tsll wom-

~ The sleeves. too. this year are par-_ tlculsrly, suited to the little woman, for in ispite of the collnrless noclts many of the newest gowns. both for morning and sfi'ern'obn'wesr, show tile tight flttins ions sleeve.

""dr§.p`e'd'.olff`each side of the front

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' This street costume is made of brown velour plush and the

vest, collar and cuffs are made of which the ground is'tan and i

of variegated brocaded velvei, he designs in black and orange.

»'l`iie`i'io'ck is finlshed'witli‘ it boned frlll. The coal is rl modish cutaway, sloping io a point in the back. The skirt is slightly

~tbei=ccnler front rounds 'off at

:ind a,tuck from the left liip to the bottom and gives a pretty

finish” fo‘~the skirt. ~ .

~. < .§.'DAINTY VANITY CASE

A ,A>da"linty`vaniiy case is made oi' niolre §l1lt,"l _ldsversl of the lstest sha¢ieil~- role. lavender. violet. llsht blue. sb-

tqnl. liiiher and inn. inside is

on oval mirror. hung from ll ribbon. and

*a |i(9cltet"ln which is slipped ii dainty " will-r' uri 'rho cam coins ever uno

i10 _li ~ _ fsstsns with either a button or bm:l.l eii\',er clllll-

.._.i__ _.___ .-.___ ..__......,....__...__.__._.._...._...._._.._....__..__... ._____...._,_.__._.

ORNAMENT F08. SLIPPEBI

The very newest style in ornament for evening slippers is a single strap innae of n fnin ni eniin across the ln- etop nnil fastened on the outer side iiilder it diamond crescent. This looks ecpccinlly well worh with black satin siinpers.

_ < ly_lsrs1l`0s.rlss._ ' `

F ALL the duyl for which the

child lives 'in expectsocy. por-

' hell nose requires so mach

||1»~=“\-'IW and preparation as Hsllew- e'en. Ot course.` for ebllstinas there is °M|w lhevoins. but in this sem Mud-sreuiy by the si-i-s'y~nt things f°f “|°» the lusrutions rl-em every-

where vans- the very needs of ~our

friends. Not so'os| the eve 'of All Saints. This ll the ons festival of all that has not been modernized sud -how can it `bef The spooks offoneage are those of the next and Halloween is the feast of spooks.

Bill! Dossessing all the imagination

sind the power of make-believe that grown-ups are supposed long ago to have lost. children love Ha.liowe'sli~. It is the night when to them seem real the weird legends. the superstitious and the foolish antics invented long ago; when they half hope sud half fear to see witches riding a broom. sulphur-eyed cats sitting in front of a cold crescent moon and gnomes and fairies dancing on the green. It is the night when they themselves, transported to a land of en- chantment, become elves, owls, bunnies or Bowers.

Q ¢ Q

A "REALLY and truly" Hallowe’en

Darty. given on this night of cu-

chsnted wands, must bear no resem- blance to the everyday. prosaic, leg. cream-and-cake, dress-me-up-in-white. lace affair, when the boy is afraid of the little girl and her ilnery, and she is so careful of it that embarrassment BDOUI the 8l‘BB¢°l‘ Dart of the evening.

How could the youthful minds be

flllwy-free to live the characters they imagine themselves in the clothes they are accustomed to? No, it is a time for the extraordinary and the wildest flight of fancy must be embodied in reality! The boy who so many times has wished himself an Indian now is one and bow thoroughly he enters into his rolei The little girl who nizht after night has Bone to sleep much more a character in a story than herself, to-night is Cin- derella-we might say. as we do of angels-“in all her glory."

They are living in a new world we do

not see, and some of us who are grown up envy them their abandon. In Watch- ing them ws mothers and sisters are repaid for the trouble we have had to make their costumes.

Let us imagine ourselves ut one of

these gay companies and how essential it is that the rooms be as appropriate to receive the spirit of the Middle Ages as tho little mummers are to be one with it.

¢¢¢

OMEHOW we have associated with

S the fenst the idea of the plenty of Autumn. For once the refreshments nrrive almost ns they have been gath- ered from the Holds and it is right that it should be so, for the jack o' pump- kin has been grinning approval for cen- turies,

Hallowe'en affords nn opportunity for

unique decoration and a scheme is sug- gested that would be effective, as well us some originally designed costumes for children.

First the general aspect of the room

can be easily lost by placing branches ‘of maple leaves that have turned color over the doorway. They form beautiful silhouettes against the brighter light of the next room. A jack o'inntern in the very center of them also make ll stick- ing combination. 0! course he must be aided. A little way of giving old jack o'lantern a more glowing countenance is to cover his face inside with ll sheet

of orange gelatin.

8 ¢ Q

i-IE jack o’lantern is by rilht of

T Msn king of the feast. An enormous one made of an entire pumpkin pieced in the very center of the room over the table gives him the rightful place of importance. If there is already a dome over the tttbie, ho can be put under it and the reflection will lighten the table.

`An old custom was to Put the larseli

pumpkin of the year in the center of the table under the lantern. Sometimes they weighed as much ss a hundred pounds and made the center of a column of fruit, with apples, pears and great bunches of wine-colored grapes built into a mass around it. All sorts of fruits and nuts can be stacked uP Bild spread out until the mass covers nearly half the tshle. Then, to give it a touch of formul arrangement, a row of lal‘Ei'6 Spanish chestnuts can be placed ln sn exact circle Outside of this, tho table can be set with the necessary dishes, but to hide the dish wherever possible with its contents will carry out more

uniformly the ides. of an outdoor fees! of the s rites. To further embody ‘hs

spirit of the gnomes and fairies, the lights should all be subdued and mel- low. g

Q Q Q

RANGES, candles and other decors-

0 tiolls should be without an illi- pearnnce of precision and curious sur- prises in favors hidden among thc fruits and nuts ailord s stimulation to an end- less chain of fun. Perhaps at any other time the children would enjoy most the rich indigestibleli generally forbidden them, but on this occasion the simplest fruit. especially ii it must be peeled in one piece to start A lilms ssems com- plotely satisfying.

As to costumes. one little girl is

dressed to buss right in with the loaves that hang about so abundantly. She is a fly-ilnd her costume is ingeniously` designed. She wears n dress of black satin nnrl nroiinll the short skirt are flies npplitlueil out from black velvet. with brilliant jet eycs and white trims- parent winge. Two larger wings seem

to grow from the shoulders °"'” °°?‘_‘*',2‘.l'.‘i_ii°..“_‘!‘.“

Tun ness is{eii`!»a!ui s_ ~ _

esp of lalsck *islbeiq

creature even more _o growths about Ablmiis *V cunning ii¢¢i»sey`ei_tqui-. 'si' _

‘°‘°“ ““*' °° °°°‘ »n'lt'wiiicn railefiSs*\o"th¢ ' ' " , bonnet with its Pointed str# lillill pink velvet. ne new white ins sith- psrs and little *h!!¢"Iilk'dlls¥s." " 'VV' A rich costume suggestive of Autliiilu

coloring il lil Crlllfe lilldl' ll dress on the ccastoftlle lseditu-rsnssh. The lliirt is rllyllllitlll. black velvet A lchu of mousstlllll

trimmed with vsimcienllss' crosses to the belt. she wesrs s 3- qiiet of old-,fashioned flowers, a msllvo- colored api-on, s black velvet rtNisl about her neck and s. dst stray Qllsb trimmed with s isttice of mrrew volvet.isworn.siittlstooussidsf<

Ill I,

A COSTUME originatilil from the

same country rsprsseilts a giant

daisy. The green satin waist hold in A skirt of white pleating. Over this sh 1a.rK9 petals of white silk. Small dailies are fastened on the befall- Bin

B white sittin coiiture. V

The Holland costume is s. very s_ttrsc» tive boyish costume for 'a young 'gl`rl. The Jacket is of copper-colored silk, 'with embroidered collar and cuffs of white linen. The widely-cut pantaloons srs of moss-colored sill. The costume is com- plete with yellow wooden sabots and

grsy felt hat. _‘

Out of season, but with a charm thsf. cannot be missed is a little Hisobud. The costume is composed entirely of T080 Detals, arranged one over me other, The” petals seem to grow otit of' A green palm yoke. The sleeves petals, giving the real etect ot' the flower. The round neck is outlined with a garland of roses and clusters of rosebuds are

worn in the hair, ' '

¢ 1_1 -»

NOT so much a part of the decorsn

tion, but distinctly a ps-rt of the

spirit of the evening is s. joyous little girl dressed in dozens of gay ribbons. A costume suggesting old-fashioned ous- toms is cleverly constructed of oblong! of cardboard marked in black and white in imitation of dominoes. He wears is monk's black hood. Another costume of abstract origin is of two enormous play. ing cards. one in front and one in b `k

(the king and queen of spades). He Wm! s. crown on his head and turned up politi- G4 llillpers. 0! course, other cost\xm§_1 Ire so successful, such as Plerrot,°colui`p. ‘sine and figures dressed as marionettes, that they are seen at all parties. '_

---4----~ _

-'eor.r.sssro~it il-ss" ‘ “i "

NEW' IALL SUIT

A most attractive collar for the new

Fall suit may be made of white with designs embroidered on the n`t with long, loose stitches, dons in trio shades of blue. The long loop stitclsfl are fastened down by two rows of ruti- nlng stitches, taken across from sioeifo side. Motifs are placed inside of the design; these are held together by o_"t`-

line stitching and dots in the ligltég shade of blue. The edge is buttunhoi with s lighter blue and s line' of tile darker color above. ' " A little plaited frill of lsce com-

pletes the contour of the color, wilichtls altogether a very unusual bit of needle- work. An attractive brosd sailor collsr may

be made of a square' mesh net, coffi- munly called filet not and is embroiderlid in applique. It is necessary to cover the design with handkerchief linen, upo`_ll which the design has been stamped; affd after satin stitch work around the d§- signv has been finished the work is coli- plsted by carefully cutting sway the linen, thus leaving the net on s bmi- ground to the design. `

----4---* 1

NEW FALL sanalds. _~

Milady of fashion who is seeking fur

noveliies in Fall fabrics will have 'A wonderful selection to choose from this year. The soft colors which blend so well in furs show to special advantage in the new materials. Kittens' ear cloth. a soft, velvety material, Just what the name implies, is a triumph ili- deed of the weaver's art. Drap de nymphe. a cloth flhfle with the lust# and drape f chsrmeule, chenlslle cl

which is rich, soft snd distinctive. peluclie do islne bid fair to be some 6'! the most used materials of the season.

The demand for soft clinging folds

and draperies this year has taxed tlifb fnanui'ilcturer's skill to the greatest dd- gree. The result from the loom is _a marvel of art. even the stiff brocadi of silver and gold, praised by our sri~ cestress of old, hill been transform(-jd under the deft finger of the wesvsr in- to a pliable material with s softneii that fniis and drapes si the mo¢iine's will. The brocsds of this Fall ls of. royal richness, with s riot of color s fanciful designs. One beautiful des wus woven of gold and cisrei. the warp being of one and the woof of the oihiiff over the bscitgi-oline was brecsoee )

di-sign in plain olsret. The complete effect was n impression of veiled iight. ` ___.....__§-_i HAVE A WLIBTCOAT

Have s waistcoat for your Autumn suit. All that you need is s yard and \

qnei-ter of sillt in scotch plaid. eiiecltedi brown and old rose or blsck and whi and this you divide evenly and join- ' tlln shoulders to a narrow strip Whig extends round the bsek of the noel. The applied pieces must brosden to wide nnepra .-nas which button together il il-ont center and make s. perfect vi-ali, coat allot. °

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_ ~i.ooii our Foil nils new wi=_Eiii.Y l=EiiluiiE. Liiliasl Flsliioii nllolls

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