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mands of their buyers, The ornaments used in their Kowns and the stuffs from which they are made can be duplicated; but with Poiret, it is a very different affair. Many of his materials are his own design. Or if he buys from a dealer, it is only with the \inderstand~ ing that all of that particular mnterini shall he sold to him. and the cards from which it is made destroyed.

Q Q Q

E h as adopted 'a most novel

_ H scheiiis for obtaining original dc-

sighs. and this is only one of many directions his inventive mind has taken. Years ago. at the Salon D’Antonlne, in

, connection with the art decorative sec-

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POIRETS costumes are never trim-

med in the ordinary sense of the

word, From the very first conception they are built. The ornament to be used, if there be any, is part of the architecture of the dress. Degas.` the French painter, who has been so suc- cessful ii. his composition oi' bailete and intricate grouping oi' all kinds, said. “The mediocre painter uses twenty people t0 represent 0. crowd. It takes a genius to do it with tive," Poirot has this kind of genius, Simplicity is his motto. Yet his things never fail in rich. ness of effect. Calloi. Soeurs, Paquin, Redfern, and

all the exclusive houses in Paris have to some degree submitted to the de-

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As we sit in expectancy, we realize

that nothing but the most perfectly con- ceived robes could stand the simplicity of this setting, ond we relax under the influence of the room to walt for a black velvet curtain to part and admit i1 manikin, who glides toward us over lhe thickly padded carpet.

Q Q &

FTER we have viewed the succes-

A sion of what all artists have from the first agreed are unparalleled master- pieces, tiic silence is broken. Monsieur

Poiret, with the jealous eye of the in_- ventor, asks our opinion; we are part of thc public, and so in part his Judse. but we feel the situation is reversed, and it is really o. severe judge we are before. One who, while presenting liis things for sale, remains the dictator. If he approves, he may give us a souvenir oi’ appreciation. for he is most genial when inidcrstood. Every year or so he has one of the best French drnugiitsmen-Le Pape or Paul '1‘rive- make him an album of beautiful printed

_ was beautifully decorated with hanginsl -

of so naive and original a character that _

- ' everyone was curious 1'r'asveio'pe»x that

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_ they had been designed by children, and

_ `< Martins School, under Poiret's direction,

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had been founded. He took only chil- dren from the ages of eight to fourteen, _ who-and on this point he was insistent,

j_ ~ 1 _,I __ - ‘ ing lessons." They were set to work

_ - _ 'i 'I' \ It nrt, the results were incredible. 'I

4 " '_ Poirot is s. writer of ballads. a vioiina

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V ' ,-/ i i - olassio iriliuence with its simple masses,

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Wlllte' silk embroidered in ink beaded roses. There :ire no folds in the tunic, for it is held out mms of me m__’h lmkmnker, to nm, _ _ _

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a§__t3__¢___}_m»_t___om__by___,_,_ loopaiilting up in front and disclosing ii pale pink lining. The eliect is ex 1§_.__¢_._:_|:_;:_E_a:-n¢_i.__-_;>._._i;i;_g¢__»_:n_i;ii_.;_»; _ _ t _ __- most* anng' ' but nd'/ar stopbing until he has reached

" " ` " i the source-followed to Penis, where

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" >oi_Mimuit _Viaui"_1r°irét is H

ghiuség Thq' worik at a llnill-I

_ _ -' irtho one thing in the move-

ment oi' lite thit`~ ouiinot be 'ignored noi-_'em iz be out ii|ili‘e"to'- _n'v_a*r__our Dl#gu_re in coiis!ll|r_`lni1_lt>.1t,__ii a eioiiji* wliidh comes. cii§r'd'fi'i|"'_‘tl`le` at- mosphere to the breaking* po_ll\t 'and leaving it fresh and clear >tbf"’nlVWOfit

and `6ii¢.' ' `

mr nit ir the storm' vmicii- mis- swept e whole ot Europe._ Paris first was Poiretvmad less than five years ago' an4;_»_to~aey it is impossible to walk nny'_str¢'et in civilization wnhoat aeeinl nine' touch of his inhuman. `

* he is vilitinl America.

to study the tastes of Amer-- it the truth' _were known. 1unni9in»xnaian'ana adolii. his creations tile Indian? personal adornmentii. This

curious _idea to the lm- we all know the great in-

Iifystians have had

drool. It hu been used

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America has impressed him. The French being nothing it not polite and discreet. he_ha_s been reticent in giving his views beyond this. "That the American woman of all women is the most daring," that “she is the least bound by tradition" and that "America is the place of all 'where originality should have greatest scope." -

G 0 Q .

LET 'UB for the enlishtenment 0!

~tlill during woltllll (we do not

deny she is daring but perhaps mr Puritan traditions are more real than he suspects) psy e. visit to this KNO?-' innovator. me let iisr iudre if. in this gsraen of Eden. of dress creatlonsi she will est the apple or knowledge. It is truly ii. garden that we ,enter Chet Poirot on the Rue Fauboiirg Bt. Honore. A tail takes us _to thf Il" in the heart of_Ptr|l. but on ielvinl our conveyance. we have loft commer- cisllsm and the common behind ul, uid after as long u'Mo_nsleu`r Poirot think! our appreciation eiltfties us, he shows un his rooms, lil! lat-don. his creations and to s few his workshops. 'rin new me su-a_en. which form hil sltablisliment, are as old as some of his inspirations. It was once rrdili fil- dencs. Everything is simple and fectly proportioned. There _are two bronu deer by the central wdli. and a figure of Venus. iliivoriy gown which lunalmi- Poirot makes is msdil tortilla one perfect women! llonlltur Poirot nys she in perfect, and we are willing

co believe lem. /armies dren.

ildmrl mike gowns for womsil. Poi t semis mi- "miiliui.'» and nero,

~-lil¢aiewooiit¢riiheoer,utu|imtm

‘stead lim fundamentally; 'ro L wom¢u'sbo¢ut1i»»nlle.sniril.n¢i

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FOR

merely s. fact: she is not on object 011 which to hang trimmings, but a Jewel io be set. Always in hai-many with her surroundings, but at the same time

to he protected from gram.

H ER; Qownsieriear conform to the

_ ming qf gps' figure, as most.

gowns, which glthQ\‘ _display Oi' dll' ligoro it, but always have a. deanite form of their own. an has been. so in all the finest epoclis of dress. 'H0 hll no iniai-est whatever-in minion. tlvlhdf all snort to the in-attractor style: one as lin certain iuieiir principles from which he never varies. Mwiiys there is the hill waist line, inspired by hll Venus, and it some women are not iiilutiful enough to wear his l‘0W¥\l-it in too ima-mr the wom__:n. H0 hw his Vlnils. Arid Midsms ol _een wear them, and so can l\1l‘_ *H09* we-their neil’ desiinieysot me nm-in isythst many women are more lhil hil venue nice on ma- eunoulil. -

When we have \’¢DPll°f|*;:lz of hip collection, per ' _ we are tb llii nildttiify. *Hill* fi,” wii'ei'e` the iliieieus of a model is liven its WWW Hifi. si'!.¢¢¢; wt lllvll|lh`ei\d&'. adi- rangei-aont,‘ uleetion. and slmilleitf fans m»»iur-anv»=- siiuwfism

the disorder of e wmten. Tliousazle

‘ worth of 1. _ i.iiii'a.__;__..__»:___.ii» L iwhshwa colon `Al$lilii.' .~ 664! '6 tnurniiaiv ir iiismviiiiiiie for is

amor mu war :gan much ui ern at aeiilit Vludtsnmmm lin sinh

tiirousii me wana. iii. niuhinsiivtei

iusiovvizefesrmonugqiuiemeau ab oadl\u,All|otomekeup¢\ll'lw- icieaooonjeae use rpiiu-ii it sins an mit use wimvut'itiaii_

guidance and by letting them come

_/V ' , lst ot ability and a "composer," shall

adjust.

.~,»i.‘~'.',= __»";~"` _'\»‘ _ ' V . _i ` ' ,_ balk -who had never before had any "draw-

" F1! ._..,i- _'_'-_ gi; _ _ _

_ ». __ __-.;.'.i'_ 1' ~ _Y f_ §_.,__ _ _ to play with paints, and under his

\ __f,

“ - I i _ " , ,~' '~ under the influence of the best Oriental

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‘ /( _ __/'_/' ` we say of perfunms? Everything that

/ _,,_¢.~ _.' _ i appeals to the senses, to his mind, it id _

-‘ ,_ | the work of the artist constantly to rs) -

E began with what the lilmpird

and worked backwards aislnst the cure

we find him nowhzdapting for the mod- ern mind the enc _ntment of the Queen of _sheba. He has peepsd into the land of Madame Butterfly, which is to China what America is to Europe, and has given us the kiiriono sleeve and the sim- _ pls spot of decoration on a simple round hat. what he wiii give ue from china we do not know. but his most cherished possession is a Chinese goddess. for

which he has built a shrine.

/` What Wonder, then, with his knowl- edge of the world's history of luxury, he should be looked to by the critical

" Parisian as an oracle.

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could yield him in suggestion, the

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T is this surprise that makes this

I irlnove.tor’s`vogue wider each year.

Women everywhere have made the expel-iinent of discarding their corset. their elongated- waist, their clumsy ull- doi-sklrts uid- the beautiful Poirot Venus irbecoming the dress, to 'a 'rest degree, GI women everywhere. Lu an ue new se inn-adam in to

`ld ¢l\l_-f.ioa|:- .wins ‘imma mfs ii mn of on guest Qnpiioifyi time carpet is eul- UN ileiauw ami mm an “nm #BME of thi siinitle early french Mui at :milf xm. iii. canine. no `d.q great height, the walls ere ban ¢X_oopt for simple bends ot decoration alounil the windows and iioorl. A door4 ny, i-willing ndiay to me ceiling me very wide, slioiws us mother larle olldni fi'°`om' which n wi|‘0»t\lrcue.l6\ds ,to tin special bouaélru ana reception

rooms, decorated in different color miivniu fereiirei-urn eration in tim great doorway hangs in long, straight lines, plain silk curtains of bright

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4 _I / /'K _ \ _to the Greeit model, and then‘ to lt! i_ ' __' 1 i _ / ` t l

'_ __ __ _' ._ ` V ' _ 3 ' ' source, the monumental Egyptian. He cw- i ' __¢'/ - ‘_ _ , __,._f.__~ _ ' _ _ _ _ . . _ . . _ T. ,i ¢_ gh _ L_ * i _ _j' , ' -_";,___.®il‘ihe“‘._Uodlce is-half black and half white and from a» high pln_k girdle hangs a tunic of thin i_;=:__f_:_f;° _Za >_f_<_:_l_:;*_;-:>_i_1:~_:___;\__ "_: l _ ,i_____ _ J I __ _ 1

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_ This evening gown is made of lemon chiffon combined with * lemon-colored satin. One long chiiion scarf end falling over

ilie left arm is weighted with a gold-fringed ornament, em- broidered in red, green, yellow, blue metallic threads and beads. The same design ls carried out in the belt, which ls_ also edged with gold fringe. A beaded motif draws the two chiffon scarfs, which fomi the drapery, over the satin train.

1 ii' _ _» Q5

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plates, representing taileaui of his most Picturesque gowns, set' in theft* #Misc surroundings. These are' p‘i-'iiited` in limited editions and greatly prized by the owners.

If one receives one of these, _certainly

the special salons are no longer held in mysteries. We are shown the most do- lishtfui “negligee pour chez soi." Tl-iell are inspired by the early fantastic traditions, but in so naive a manner that they are far removed from the lace and ruffle affairs generally uh cepted. The Poiret influence is and seen, which, after all, is a reflection from the Orient, adopted centuries ako, or the things have the luxurlant en- velopment of the Orient itself, the figures swathed in great masses of the rare fabrics. Sometimes the peasant idea is used, all the edges bound simply in pale orange.

At the Theater Rennaissance last

Winter “ics given "Le Minaret." an oriental mnicsis in vi/iiicii the iuui-en were all gowned in Paul Poiret.

ee# ~

The first model is dressed in A dark

unobtrusive suit perhaps, for we are not in the first minute to see the gem! Of the collection. but in gra'd\i`e`l steps WB HFS 1211 up to Poiret’s` more indi- vidual and intimate concepiiouii ot dress.

'riis maniinns are trained witii the

care of a. ballet master. They wear their clothes as only the Frm *Umm lm°w= how. with me maui me the freedom of mov_e,!g_§gt__;\_pjg§V.¢||sr have acquired Glider t`l\éir'iires_e}t§' tutor. It may he. the themselves have had a large inlluencl over the ni0vQ- ment of their wearers, for in the greet simple folds there seems never 1 liiiit of restraint, V

In and out they psi] frbni th; llttls his/cit our-tained doorwir. Soliiif seem to be born on the lnltkltf, are so

nanny inia_sui-prisms in tiiéic_»iaw¢i-

like coloring. Aiwiiyil there in A sur. Drisa. » _ The beautiful 'Andre i15D&'i‘i. ' We have been waiting for hor, the molt regal model in Peril. The' rhythm of her movements, as the sdve.nces._ is as beautiful as in some Entem dl`nos_ We feel that she could wear anything, and it would hang beautifully. But we are soon aware she is clothed as bdits her. In a voluminous wrap of e ted lo in-iiiisnr tim we sup. who would lava' earcai that in who ein? But tii¢`_clé'vee- ness of its designer becomes no touch of the red spiireiwiies to wi¢l|‘» in tin ienfiii ofa- iislr to white viiiming rarest. .4_u_'t sms or poi-en white ei-nine sm his like

el ii. Jeweler |ets.s. ?ri52iell _

Hill ermlne cont riiiei tb thi-invalid.

_ 'riie mise inioiyn time te' protect any color from ` ` ` _ with cnooiei-_ .snare wma urn; ws are sumi-use to an that tm mn, tlnuss down the back. The sléilvesv ere white, The' bslaiies il péffiet, Mis turns asain reward ui. and :tannins mini me gi-ace or ii Greek Tun-ii, do opens her arms lik; _tvugnat lllillh See illustration, " _ li Bhe has been trsnliilllred eyes and stands 5 slilildeii gold form from the top of hor pals

to the uns or ner mul wut; i she is a white on ` ‘ _

and in such e settifilols' Agw °;§` _ Who could have conceived itfr “ii looking into the calm of A die# ‘ _oi-ciiiii, for it is with mauve in has ' tins brilliant emi. ` _ _:_ _ The mass of color CND] Another flown- veiumiimniy W

yellow apbears. Thi# ii the ii. Persian enamel; and nl'

and spreads her srinqwe no"Q" and silver column of A lliufe ' frm swirling snails; Persian Q origin or mei: me one ‘ l

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adrian). 'rwiibdiiie illicit wt viiiie, me mm slim sian ' linen a zimic at this white silk

broldored in pink bolded rung

l1l'l\\‘ W Pdill 'Pl‘lb` '.l'l|lIO_\l'\° _ folds in the tunic, (Of it ll hell-'Q1

at nie bottom sy s hoop, tilting, ri" `

the noni me aisiiiolnliaplili ` ` ~i:iia‘»nf¢et` ii setréiiility diiilfit me _ daring.

'rin mimi of siieiis eiiten Persian heeddrels and a lm!

train. The .shite skirt _forhi

dlllonal lin as itjlndl \_ form and oiiilh “iw N hi* `

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