DQCEMBER 21, 190/

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NDIVIDU/fLI'i"Y in dress, by ¢`d¢,~,¢,

Uf ill# high lords of the sartorial Irina.

..- . dom, is at last to be allowed men. b li* Wlfh tht /all and winter seasons a new 'G76 ill men's dress will be gin-an era when the 9“J"'°“ -"Ile will be artistic effect, and the purpose individuality.

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men during pas: years have worn the

'sliapcs and styles and sizes ordained for them; 'they adopted the colors put in 'vogue each season, and accepted the dictum of his majes- By the 'Tailor without demur.

But a change has come, and the style this

'yall is anything that suits a man, both as to ‘shape and color, so that it is artistic. Prac- ‘tically anything will go. The best styles of the present century will commingle to make one harmonious e/feet.

Since the seasons of 1835 and 184 not

such a range from unusually wide, to narrow shouldered coats has been permitted. Even the tight, body-/ittin g coats in 'vogue ten years ago are coming into favor, and have already become the mode par excellence in London.

“T o be successful, dress well," declared

a modern philosopher. And to dress well is an art. What style coat shall you wear; what color and design of materials; what color of necktie, shirts and socks? '

lThere are opportunities galore this sea-

son. dlmost any style in -vogue within the last half dozen years will be permitted. After swinging 'violently from one extreme of style to the other, Dame Fashion is settling down to liberal and common-sense ideals.

i d I th il I éltidlxtlriz iaititiids lil wniltoiiiis°ss_-Hsrricls.

The style is the msn hlriiself.-Button.

Be ollln in dress and sober in your tllst.-Montsiru_ IKE those of a decade ago will be msny of the

styles in men‘s suits seen on the streets this fsll and winter. And surprisingly subdued will be the colors worn.

Various shades of warm browns will be nrst in favor.

man bm" mm digqreqt grnya. Mixtures will be frowned upon. Novelties and bizarre eifccts will be entirely

lacking.

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Qsnclogi which the Face Dlsp ayslhn ness or V

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0 lwrwss c each well-dressed mas will be to ss.

::°§n:n"V_§__°h::‘ n_h‘.°*;_ il: _lx0\_i_llB lifst and a color best suited

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in clothes this season. ' W I be me “cnt at “we”

WW "ill lmlllnz debsrture tram the eccentric an

:rrident sflacts of previous seasons! Bartorlal aurhoi-E' esnexplain it very gimp|y_ " . luchasmshgeshlon for the lost sevsrnr seasons trotted extrava __ Dace. solos in tor every sort or wlia _ons come Kali Weill. that a reaction naturally has 1°

n°W l°"B Will it last? Tho gods of fashion smilie-

;l:_;’°_:l)vgl!\>_ could tell? The taste ot the public lg sq “_ at ,h ' ““°» “fi” °“- the s°ds_t’<`>'iiow‘the inclinations

B_t:tmu_l_tltude. This they tell’ you, ‘ ~' ~,

_mupumw st Ls still more impressive ls the widespread twelve ° ' ° USM- D047-llttlnlt coats worn ten and days liar! |180 in London. the exact styles of the old and ~_e_wa as ;he_London fashions filter to this_co\intry

el' mllresslon. the era of old-fashioned

“Wien seems likely to continue gm- u umm .

to lsxglzz previous seasons the change from one made mlmhmsl' Vifltlllivundlnz. Sacks were at one time would at ¢>;_B‘0l‘ . then absurdly lengt one season they shoulders I a arm. and the next swell out balloon-wise; "Cnr _B _an from the natural width to _gigantic propgr. come. meets varied in length untilf‘l!hey seemsd in be. hmm °he§°;’_i “Y 01° sms collars ren mm a neck- mn fro; "_: De;?_u:°;v_._dB_i_tron}s agents. while trousers

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What had is nlnn to do if he wanted to be up to data

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other than accept the clothing prescription prepared for him? This season, however, he may use his own sweet will in selecting his dress.

Side by side in fashionable places. theaters and hotel

lobbies this season you will eee exceptionally long and short roll frock coals; double-breasted coats, with sharp- ly peaked and nearly square-topped lapels: single-brnasb ed and double-breasted woistcoats, with and without col- lars; cutaway frooks. with fronts exceedingly cut away or nearly full; and overcoats ranging from the ha!f-flt- ting sizes to the full, bulky box styles.

Peak lapoll. down-slanted and square lapels are all

correct; vented sleeves. fancy-cuffed and plain sleeves will be equally vrorn; high-closing will vlo with low- elosing' waistcoats.

A hBPDy medium in all styles will be favored, and

the length and width of a msn’s troueeie and tho breadth of his shoulders will doubtless be decreed by the tailor after sizing up the proportions of tho man.

NATURALNESS IN COATS

Ordinary coats this season will be made shorter than

the spring costs. without an sccentuation of the shape. Naturulness will be the dominant feature.

Tho London costs, which tsilsrs say will make their

sppeeronce in this country later in the season. are mad'e to ilt the body tightly, and are the exact patterns worn ten years ago.

Several distinct st;/los of day dress suits will be worn.

There will be a double-breasted frock with a very long roll, and another with a medium roll. Perhaps tho long- roll coat will be more strilrln8-

The roll will be all silk, with a strailzht outside edge.

The lapeis will be moderately peeked, three inches wide at the top and two inches at the bottom. A cuf! will be worn on the sleeves, with one or two buttons.

The medium-roll frock will be made with more peaked

nnd narrower lapela. The favored vest for day dress will be made of fancy vesting, without collar and single

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breasted. A double-breasted waistcoat, frock-front style, will he fushionoblu. " ` ' `

Trousers will bo made to 'it tho individual, with side

scum cord lvrltctl. The i|\'t-virgo willtlis uf the legs will be eighteen lnclit-is nt the linen und uiait-on at illo bottom.

A hapless cutaway fruult with the snino 'nulszt length

as the double-breasted froclr, will Lo worn its duy dress. The gray double-breasted frock wl‘l be usually worn in the forcnoon. '

A cutaway coat, frock closing with three buttons,

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front will lie cut away from the wuist line tu ine- front center of the log, und the roll will extend n little helow tho breast ilno. Tho edges may be braided.

lf there is spice ln variety. no one will be<>ome'_;tu1lod

by the effects in sack coats. They are inilnita. Two. thrcc and four buttons will be worn on the coats: the garment will be made loose fitting. or shapely. or body fitting. with long and short rolls, with straight nntl cuta- way fronts. `

Very popular, undoubtedly, will be o. three-sean: cut--

away sack, closing with tllrco buttons, and hanging nearly stru.lght_ There will be u vent in tho back. Ex- tending to ci point about two inches below the breast line, the lupols will be slightly peaked. Flaps will be worn on the pockets, with turned-up cuffs on the sleeves. , With the two-button sack the roll. which will be slightly peaked. will extend half way between the wrilst and breast lines, '

A four-hutton, dout>le~breestcd sack coat will bo

favored. and also n two-button, double-breasted sack. A new feature on this cont will be' sawed-on lnpels. A widely worn coat will be a straight-front sack, closing with three or four hutions.

For the saclt coats, vests will be meds from the nme

material, or of any fancy material. The vests will bu mario ueuully wlihuiit collars, with ilvo or six buttons. A duuble~bi'ear-rod vest will also find favor. ’l‘ru-irors worn with sn'ck_co:1ta will be wider nt tho hips ami in

thu lege liitin tliouu worn wilh half dross.

A new fvziturc umong the inure e>:tri\vuguiit styles

will Ls u liuop effect in the i:\:ll:lng,' uf the coat. This viii! lic ul'fo<~t~fl hy ilio radical \ix't-:~_wrs, and lilo clit-ct wlil ‘...' dt_‘._‘~_iL.y novcl_

\.‘oi-' 1 inzztlo alter this mode will lic about six inches

f..;lui' i.l..in lilo regular niousuro, and will he so con- structed that lilo lapcls will hulgu fox-wzird und rull fruin tllu lioolt, after this i-:hupo of .1 half hoop.

This modus will he nilupted in suck cunts, Prlnco AI-

burts, truck emits, 'I`ur:udus. and dross cools. in thu Prince Alhurt rout. inlido nllvr this fuilliloil, the s\vet-D of the hoop will hu purllculnrly striking.

'fliers will bu some decided iiupnrtums in full dross.

The ultra styles of ri your ago will bo nbundoilstl, und conservative irioillu \\'lll prevail. A favorite dress cont will he mario with ii one-pluuu fnrop:irl_ with \vell-peaked lupels. 1

For cvenlnl; iirc-Se o. \vi'.lsl<-out nf llroes vvlsting will bc

worn, slnglo liroiinietl und cloitinir with throg inituiiis. it will bu mu-lo wllh :L nurr;iv.' sh;i.vl collar, with li elli;l.lly curved opening They will also hu iniide without collars, with lho opciiizn; \'»:;lu\|\rd.

'l"io iunwy evening shirt that was seen lust winter luis

gone into eclipsu_ No jcwulry ol' any kind will ho worn uftvr G o’clot‘lr; which l`\i`o:i will be of rillhrm, rind whlto cuf! buttons und :=t\ids of cnninul \vill he used in prof- orence to tliuee of pearl. ’I`\\'i» studs will ho generally worn.

Exceptionally thin and light. hut ilnt-. goods will bn

worn by tho well-tlrosaid mfin \\'nr.~'ti~il goods \\'lll ha

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most widely worn, but clzuvlots will bo fuvortfd more than during previous seasons.

The reigning color will be brown-brown of various

hues unrl Shudu:-I iinil t'i\mliliix;ti0n:i_ Those rtllzldl'-fi run from dark gliigiw in ll-,',ht yi-lirwisll. l3:'o\vns with roll and groan slrlprs will hc qnl'..~ stylish; stripe-.s will pru- domlnute over checks, iinll vrill rnngo from thin lmlr- lines to broad. oinohntio uil'i»\:t:-'.

A happy tlmnglit was struck in this seu:son'a color-

lngs. when u licniitliill autumn tune of hruwn was pro- duced. lt in o wonilt-rl`nll_v rich color und iiurtlvulurly suitable to ihln time of (lm yi-ur.

Next in favor to lirulvn, hints will bo wirloiy worn, n

liluc unilnislit-rl \vi»i'_.'lt‘tl_ nccorlling to tatllors, liromlslng the best results. The-n will follow gruys. mouse, fnwii and olive tones of cloth, all of u rutlli.-l" subdued shading.

CHESTERFIELD OVERCOATS

Brown will prcdoinlnatr: in ovorcouts, li\ pluln wt-nvo

and llurrlngbonu ol`i`ci:tu. Favorite fabrics \vlll ho vlciinii, which wcurs wrll, und lun1ls':.-wiiol.

Overcuuts will Le inudu tlihcr shapely or liunglng

struigllt. Narrow shoulders, izowuvor, will prevail, and the Chesterfield coat, it is Sulil, will ho tho prlnlc favor- ite. The full coat will bo mndu rulhvr shapely; but with the coming uf winter the loo:=r~_ straight-hanging siylo will tnko its place.

For fnll the collar will l,-o fnrcil with silk, ond lor

winter with velvet. llcnvy ilupf; \vlll be worn olcr hln pockets, ond cuffs ul' vents will give u linlolilil rffl-ct to tho sleeves.

More than cvor before, fur-trfnimurl cunts will ho

favored the coming winter. 'l`l:o_\» will be made in oi straight-hriiiglni; box isiylc, with u :liutvl collar, r'r\'r~n inches wltlo in tho rr-ar. in lin`l|f'_ mink will ]»|'ovnll.

Althoigli l'~`il:=l\l|m ll:\:; il--r~-'~-ml :.l»l~i-li-ty of vulor in

sulllng-°. .ihv has i1i\'\‘l\ i<<\\\_'._.' lu :riiiilfs lunl iii-<-kliee. Nceltiluri, tlcilr tu ll:\ lltvlri of izlalil, will ilu oi iwl;iilllt~s:4

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‘\ e ii \ \ I' other wily. ' ~ M Y' any This assertion by

4 ‘. `°' . the llov. G. Campbell

' ` 1';~.“,"‘ ’ Mor an, the famous Q - -L. " ` 1”' males- divine. in" =

, ' TM / " sermon at Eset North-

1? ‘- " Bold, Mess., the other

,..‘.g- day, has attracted the ,..‘*~.-2 "M :;‘:“;:’.::.:;i.;‘.”‘:.‘::.'f " -#AA ,, moth D1’°P°1‘¢i;”°~ te

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,~ 'tonnes is ts. ,fm assi-is the M* B' ’,_.“‘_’°' b lou-ease, dust se sums atrsnnuu. ___ "nw

lute seslsty talk. who would stir lt ;. mn .

los or asessveeuessutr. snow Jul* I' I J mon" psalms; ess smsltias their fellow-boliisl vi - torrent; ‘ -- _. _- ,‘ l > flare ml. for ianneo. tl- ".°°'="*l"°“" °‘” “‘°

dinner given to Miss Clara Waterman Knlqht. one of Philadolphla's most beautiful and cultured younir society women, which. lt was said. cost in round iig- ures 325.000.

Can you imagine how so much money could pos-

sibly ho spent in providing n alnglo evening’s enter- ta|nment--niostl_/ lrastronomicnl-for o fow dozen people?

"` .lust glance at the expense items: '

Decorations. |1000; i'svors.|l000: dinner. N000: s\iDD°\'-

|3000; wines and liquors, |1500: clears e.nd ciltreites. |6003

not ot nan. emo. Total. 83.000. This atlulr was ilvan st A big hotel in Philadel-

phia. If it had been at o country home. as such af- fairs often are, there would have been another item of s few hundred dollars for rental or cabs or sutomo- biles to tilts the ¢uests`o\it from town. _

Of course. the item of food is by no means the

largest In one of these ailsirs; lt is likely to he one of the smallest.

On the occasion ot the Knight bell, for instance.

iiewers cost. in proportion to the number of (nests. fsr more than the sdiblss. There were |600 American Bitlity rests, which cost tl sseb. besides ilowors snd greenery of other ltiaes.

lt will sleo be noted that the favors soot slinost

ss tsueo-'se the llsll--C8000 in the sggrellts. This is s distinctively modern innovation. One mas; My do moss then live lie lllsetl l "Tillie-lib fesd"; ons must prime, yrdsslits-she -unless they sro eoetiy, rssay s nose will bd stuck up st then. - ,At the Knllbt' dinner the favors ter the women consisted of swsedown sekrfe. fsns on sesrfs of (suse, Louis XV! work-lidxss. screens tor eleotrle lights, sliver birds. sprays st anis blossoms sad other

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For the mon there were silver rules, with pen

and pencil incused, Japanese lncqucr boxes for dress- ing table. silver and enamel whistles., pipes with ambsr mouthplocee, etc.

Tho young lady in qnnstlon. Miss Clnro Waterman

Knight, has bcon tho ct-,ntrrtl figure ln other bulls and dinners almost as expensive ns that nlven by her father on the occasion of har-coming out.

Her uncle, Edward Waterman Dwight, gave one

reception for her at a cost. it Is said. of 324.000.

ln this instance most of the expense was duo to

the dscoretionkand. strange to say, it was in their very simplicity that their 8l'°“'~ eibflnsivencss lay. for Mr, Dwight desired an old-time plantntion offcct.

Some treepiwere brought from nearby cities. others

were brought from the Bouth. Bome ferns were brought all the way from the Pacino Northwest. In all, It was the nnest collection of rare plants ln America. outside of s. great horticultural museum.

Ons of the lartest. lt not the very largest, amounts

0( mtmsy spent by an American on s dinner was the 0100.000 which James Hasan Hyde is said to have expended at Bherry’s in New York in January, 1905.

Ambassador Clmbon, of Francs, was made the

sunt of nohor ot the dinner. Ssnstor Devew took . mein; wt is it: rl-“leant mm. or r-isnhrs uni. versity. and other notable Amktiens were present.

Basset; must me some vsat for its surging tum.

sends. It esnaotposdhli lspmd on sstsbles sions the lrsst ssnouii¢s‘wbAoli_'B`W\a.tl W spend in order te mein s ssmosiy mating. house sees tain" as favors; decorations and entertainment novelties must be ilitroductt ' ‘ ' ‘

A lfswport resident. for lectures, lest summer, is

order to latest sn element ef aevslimlnto the drows-

on cntiro nonipiiny of \':irif~t_v ni'll:=t:<, wlm pcriorini-d on an imp|~ovl:;l~il slime while tho lzurris nie,

it is in such nsiilcil ihut flirtuiioa url: helm; sriunn..

dere-.l. not ln the actual husiiwsg of tllnlnlr.

/is it muitor of fnct. thu il\in;-~~- ihzii uri: onion nr

oth: of ll.csi_~ ii:n;,'nli`1rcilt illiiiuru nro not niiirli <lll'i\-r- ent from what you wiiuld i;ot in ii tnlilc <l'l\ntr» vi».~lln:; $4 or $3 lil il ilrst-class liniol.

Here is tin- mvnn oi' our of' Mrs. .lfillzi .lnvnb _-\r=inr'>-1

dlnnorn in New York--u dliini-r sulil is have cost up- ward oi $.7li,c,uo;

<‘ini_~.l»\i\|ni~ nlflrli- Slum mi ins-~e. t`.ili‘\li'li~i ilu \'<»lulllu.

I-`lll\t do l-m.uf uux

L'|l'\fl'\l*|f!i\r»nn Fnrrln.

l’onirnvs&'lir1ir|~ie_ i`cr'i'nvln_ i‘inn\i~-i Connsbscic. iiomlny.

l‘nto do I-‘ole time on (‘rout|~,

_~'ni_um Oriental.

ncllvlfilrli. ‘Frnlsc-1 Fondriiils. l\l.u.-lurincs (llnrrs. [wins l~‘l\nrs. Ui-norms hlurrilila llliltcl, Ccrliwx Foillllllit. Cars.

Vino, Moot R- (‘l\nnrl~n imp:-rlnl Brut. Ap.-:limi-ii;

Tn be sure. some of thn items, like pate da fine

gras. nrs quits cxpt-nslvo, hut in most of tho instances it is only the French nnrno that disgnlscs articles ot rather common food.

in season. New York alone spends |l.000_000 g,

night for nftcwthcllter suppers; there are families at Newport who cannot get along on less than |1000 s,

087.

It has been common knowledge at Newport tho

pest summer that some of the families once known as wealthy were letting some of their servants gn, warg requiring the gardener to also not se ohsuffeur._ were selling their bloodod horses, were cutting exe psnses all Along the line.

'lo A oaesdon se to the reason for this enforced

rstrsnehment. one of the knowing n-wmbsrs replied:

"Dining out has msde them poor."

` Bo the Rev. G. Campbell Morgan ls not alone in

lla tumlsas s|.Aiaerla's siamdliusster, imported __bi» ovlalssu . f l . , , , __ _ .-,..,. _ _ _ UA, ` - __

vurlviiun and 3. m'."'l'ld llilzzllng colors. lilurvnlaua corn# l»liiii\;_i_~;;a 'ill ilrt-viill. 1-wi the wall-<Zrr'ssrd man may chouso 'fron an infinite ».l.i~iy.

The favorite rio will be u trlffiloii eric-ct, with diag-

onal liars. _Souls are in two colors: others of Lhroe colors, the \iui't~i melting into one linolhcr. Knit ties will be widely worn. J\nDthel~ f'lvnritf< tl-» will be rl wavy, water# color cflkyci; whllo ii lisck-u' L ;,'r\ checlt tie will tln favor with guc.»o_dr1ssex-s. 1 : 1, .1 ii rod and black a

orunuifwlll by f‘..\'oi'ilo v<iruli'. i’~~'~z

Striped materials, with solid ‘ it ‘ grounds, will pra~

vnil ln shillings ills.:-_-ii, pink.-, gt--a_s. with stripes td harmonize, will be ul-l¢~|y worn. it is said that is hucltled silos will und ‘riiviii-_

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rluisbamls as Premiums

OMR yours ago u tailor oi Ilrussels took into Ha

S cinploy ii _\-lin: nizin nn lliv sllpnlnlion llilt he

slrlfuitl l»l~ iillf-\.\~fl to \ll~‘;:u:'t- vi hlsn lu illuri-l;i:1" \`»'l1i~i this :ii-,iltizwzit vilis :lgi|l.l ilu: i.llor \vi\i~l

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xill\'ti'il:'t‘iE iliv l`.iil. ll..iL lzr' hud in i-tin-lt u '.i..'.hI\nil $5 i

lirlrtow upiszl ti.: will. or inulllvu who should ring lx-DU tho inns* cuslonl llniinl; this your.

Korn compllltllm rl-suliifil. At the end of illu WNW

it \\':\sl l"i.ui\il il|‘it the p\'l;:i.» had [icon won by u wliliiw of Gu yoziri.-_ rguilr l:Ll-iullv :hu iwvk hi-r liiishuiul li-my :mil iiii_i'u.l\ii~--l iilm li hor l»!l'I\t ¢=nm=. it in sniil il:.i,i

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inc wus on \vt'l ;i’l~:-_wil with hor liurgnln tliiil slit- item .

-lnri-il ii lar; il\.~:| nu- oi' 1-rl:itl\'is io give ihoir putrur_~ iiifu to tho '.-.il~~ - ii.nni-x.'_ly.

This lair.. ll i.- i.\lil»r is ~:nl~ii good to a numbtr ru

rvllu-r bnslni' ' .i of tho williiiuiitf ilnd for n thu; ilivru was ~, li \~ :ln cruption of ndvertisomeiits u.:‘,\

|»i\.~:u»rs uni. ui:.t.i1;; liu.=ilni.\i-i t_» hu disposed of.

1-:very Nmv \'i »ir'l» lliiy ii iiirlgo Viennese ilrm oi' boot-

inilzvrrs was wont ln oiitr il h'.|=.l»niid to the lndy willing L. -

l`~» it wan cliiialfli-roll ln lm thu sninlleet and innnt. shop:-ly nl' the yt-nr, l3iiuruiiio1~liig nt the shine time lo set thi! couple up ln liuslm-ss nlmuld such help bo nt-oiled.

l-‘ur over twunly )'\_vu'i»\ was this prilrrtlra continued,

uniii tho honil of tho flrn a old widower, to in lnvo

with nnil hlxnei-li' mnrrluil tlhs Cinderella-fuuilud in-l»: whu, imini; of nu nltrii-jealous disposition, sternly votes-I the ciieitmwn m»|itlnu.inre.

Oni' recoiitly ii llorlin trndcsmnn isanorl ix cirrulsf

prnrnlainn' to bi.-stuxv ii. husband. in tho pvrsun of his .- qi \il\iin thu spirisier who shall, within a yf‘:\r's1 space, l- ~ loci thn mast coupons-oiio of which ie ni.-rn with l liurchnao to tim \ci\\iu of li nmrlis. To th-- prize hui-li V ne tl wriltllntz suit. he line prnmlrcd in lu-atow n shfiro I’ his lmsiricsn.

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customers r\‘li'ncti\l~ t<\lu\:l~~_ Wll~'r"i.n n-.is ili~;._~i I . i.

Home yrnro n;:o it lffvls flrm clrcixlntml nninpv in _

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stylishly drlr-WB nl-is V rmirillutl ily tim lluebnnrl it 's n 1' ul-no-,' .1-znifylnil limi silt-l\ .l

cd that ni-‘-;-1 on .l.. urine :foods wi~_\-v nil-.~.-._ ` _.i -,

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ehitnco i~. vi l~,"t<\ r-__¢ ... - lglbln ruling: mon, il.-` , iuur partner li- 1‘_ ~ fir-Ann

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ACEIITAIZY E ~».\lsh prvnrflrx, acnmdlng tn n ,H-J

patch in A _to/ndon n<~wspttpd‘. bniievdl in wuiln- _

ventlms-l “fire Ono must du so, ns says. to n-in in

his peopfo in crawl-in.

Bo pe appu~\r¢~-l on the storm of the Crown Ttwnir r.

il( PBC horn. Enylnnd, nriuywl in lla- ful' pimnply of ll [nl ht orrant 1-f the ttmf 1-( ih<~ tfriirxidrs, snrcoai ut ¢|-mf” mall, \;a\,h»=rl<_ <:.`e_r.'r-s, nrzz l-fl |:nu:\il~tsil ,=w.»i.\ and helmet, ond 1,;-onrlwl liu:.i i.1pln~:="ii\-'_ vi. ll' 'l`-it l 1 the whnlf- n<~:~\r of Pod, that yu may, be sblu to s\.l..L against' *to viics of the devll."~____~_____ ___ ____,___ ___¢

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