, ‘__ . _ __,... .1-..~__ W _

» ‘ ‘ -` _‘ i-» 5, ‘ _'. Writ, . _

_ -» ` `: -i ."5-` . ‘»‘-_ 'e-_.',,.'i'~ ‘ __

'-~ .:__'._i

._, .1 .K Lu ’.,____,__

-»;.

~ 0' eachers. P.1rents, I upil ,f _ __

AGAZIN ' UARDHA

-_ __ _

f ;,ono-msralvon ranlrslul.

“gong That a_ Woman Does

Better Than a Msn. A woman can talk longer than

mm because she uses less force'

ban

"asking than the man does. A pw. lluainted with the program of wort

“lop has proved by setual and vo

gslicate measurements that the bar

gpm singer uses far -more enol-

gml the tenor and that the

ptilier uses more force than either. __The re-nie of voipes differs _greatly some percentage varies to the some

,fossil that the tenor uses only- fro

King-power of the baritone or bas

t'¢`l_times the force of the thrilll

soprano. _ "‘ The explanation is so simp|e~ths,z it ls surprising that the investlgstl was not made before. It' has lon

and ‘keeps the edges- only'--vibrating by the emission of air. The bass or eontrslto leaves the space between the cords wider open and has to vl- brste very much ln`orei`of the mem. branes, so that a considerably larger mount oi sir is required and much morefcrce is expen'lied.- . . _

Persons with high, squeaky .voloen

sftenseem to be very louuacloua, and the reason ia now plain-'-they can talk with far less effort than those who take s deepertone' and'-have to use niore air to utter their words,

Here- lies the real explanation of

the ease with which a woman 'can

outtslk‘ a man. She has the advan-|

tsge-of using -from one-seventh to one-sixteenth less lung-power. -_ fplt. Bits.

Criminals In War.

Crime has decreased greatly since

the war broke out, the reason being that a considerable proportion of men belonging to the professional criminal clisllles have been absorbed into the army. Many of them, too, have done well in it. »

One col»vict,~a Liverpool man, with

a score or more convictions to his "credit," won' the Victoria' Cross for one of the most conspicuous acts of gallantry on record, and has since died. for his country. Others, pro- moted on the ileld for bravery, have attained to non-commissioned and even, in some instances, to commis- sioned rank.

The-past history of practically all

men of this type is known to the heads of the Criminal Record Oillce at Bcotland Yard, but these never pshs on their information to the mill- tary authorities. To do so would be manifestly unfair to men who, what- ever their past. faults may have been, are now doing their best for their country, and, incidentally, trying to make good on -their own account. 'filers is. however, one exception, and the rule in_ this connection is it hard and last one. No man of known

criminal agtecitdtlnts is allowed to serve in t e Royal Army Medical Corps. or, generally speaking, in any of the other departmental corps.- Tit-Bits.

A Traveler.

A man whose every word and ac-

tion betokened ta son of the soil step- ped up to the booking cfllce of a provincial railway station. Alter a cheery ‘Gude marnin’ to yer!" he asked the clerk for ll. ticket to Lou- don. "You will have a_ return, won‘t you!" inquired the clerk. "What do

an Hy?" "Why, you'll want to oonle

ck, won’t you?" "Noe, that I

ahs.n't; but ye'd better give me a rc- turn, all the same." "But," exposin- lated the clerk; "lt you don't want to

come beck to ` only a waste of money." "Loo 'ere, young man.” re- lilied the old fellow in a tone of silli- dued confidence, "that’s my business. l sartillly sllan‘t want ter come back; list l shall jest as sartlnly have to."

Has Had Experience.

"So you've joined the army.

lilosei" ask'ed a mall, addressing his former coacbliisn. "Yes, ssh." "What branch of the service are'_you in?" "Well, sah,` Ah's in de infantry, but when we sits i’ France Ali'se do‘ne' asked~de captln to put me on dat ailht-raid work. Gittin' into de adder fellow's backyard durin’ -do night hours is a job dat Ah considers mah- scl! particularly experienced at."

gignhgguéiid-rv-H

Blll‘Basheln was not a safe person

in deal with. 0n"the cwlram lie dealt with safes; but the lady tor to the slulne was not to know -this.

"So," she said to Bill's little cull.

"ihey’re put your father away for late keeping?" »

"Nahl For safe-_breakln'!" replied

the grubby one, with s. wink.

A Dong Acquaintsnoe.

Little Girl-»-_Poor mumsy's got :\

headache? Poor old mumsyl Mother --You must not osll mother old, dear. Little Girl--I don't mean that you're ‘fully old. but that l've known you a lon! tlmel'

lie Twin.

"Are you going to make a. garden'

“xl 7€\r'l" "No," replied ‘ilr. Cross- |°ll- "i,nlode a garden this year and “Y l°lKhbor'lle`pt._blllckens. Next year Wu solar to be my turn to have the mmkqux, _ _

I-inn-lk_-1-'_ A`E*|lldcl'.

Waiter-l-lavsn-'B you forgotten

something, air? t lner--By* Georn. that's sci Bay. howfln’-thunder did Nu knew my wife gave :ne a letter 1_0 mail? '

. _

0 sulsttmm 1" *els Pigeon.-= ‘ Aa s suastttugt tor :lay pigeons, e

Frenchman has “turned a propeller l°,,b_e shot thru h the sir swiftly f.fU_i1\ all instrument held in the _

--"f' Women Work Faster: _ -.Investigations show that womdll °\_°f\tives on drill presses and -mill- lil _machines are from 25 to 50 D0* hilt- tum than ma. _ _ __

. ~ '_- -,i .-1.

l t \ ` , _,rim tl r . .-~ .‘ ` at

,l _ , .4 ts- _, l> l ,,

5 To a 9

D rlon previously ungc.

pgs-seventh to one-sixteenth of'tll

ll. _ .

na dmermca b”_w“n me mme :Ngo though of colll_partlt.ively small gba bythe contralto and the soprano “ "est, escapes their attention. and tsslso marked. and the eontrslto who “'*“°" °f °“1>'°°1P1ml=°ft=\w° to the ,ings in very deep tones uses at least °°mm'”“l7 1" *hm* °”° 18 SU’-1101104

lil

extent. bill I5 I generalresult it was

“U .

011

been known that the tenor or so r°°°3‘=m°d by U19 Devaflmelli 0! _'mu' the V-°c“=w,.d5 cl°se.td'l;'&=‘; l Alrlctilture that the Hon. G. S. Henry

o. A. c. 'rhaxnllvof "

, "““'“' °°“‘°"°"°° °f Agrienlulral Exports at Guelph.

if carried out during- the ye" by ui, '__§:il;°t- tkepreaentativee of tho D¢.

911 -0 Agriculture in the 47

:gi-ltliltlcs which have taken advantage "cali Opportunity to secure the ser- W °f _tlivwvounz men. the wlile “-nptoedof thell-_activities as demon. mm 1*" their annual conference

8 u _ recently ‘at Guelph is a revela-

°°- N0 llrltrultural undertaking

and to the country at large are han- | :lied by these graduates of the 0.A.C. » n_ a most capable manner. In fact, W f“||¥~ is their importance to the .well-being of the country districts

'law iltto make a point of attending two sessions of their conference with _ s view to coming in close touch with the men themselves. And this, one of the new Minister's iirst acts since his Rppointment, called for the re- marks of comlnendation from the farmers and stcckmen whoattended the meetings of horsemen and sheep- breeders.

Some of the more important un-

dertakers for the advancement of agriculture in which the district re- Dresentatives in 'which the district Dresentatilvea - are engaged that were the providing oi high-quality seed of all crops, draining of farm ,lM1ti. co-operative selling of farm products, especially wool; the distri- bution of pure-bred live stock, the Providing of concentrated stock feeds .to beat ad-vantage and the encouraging of the formation of -cattle and hog-raising clubs among _tile children in the various counties. i A new undertaking introduced to the i notice of the representatives by Prof. Sissons, of the Resources l-lub-conl- nlittee on the housing problem, was ithut of providing for the housing of ‘ farm help in a manner calculated to ;encourage the movement of the ex- : cess city population back to thc land, ;and very live action in this matter, _which is likely to play an important ,part in the solution of the rural _ problem, may be expected as soon as the district representatives take hold of the work.

In nearly all cases the young men

-appointed as district representatives fare farm-bred, and naturally their _sympathies are with tile class that it ;ls their duty to serve, but owing to their substantial training in advanced agriculture ‘they are in .position to _recognize most readily aliy mistakes 'being made in farming practice, and they have the knowledge which en- able them to correct such mistakes,

- while their closeconnection with the

Agricultural Department and the Agricultural College ensures them a supply of information regarding all new discoveries that may be of bene- fit to the farmers ofany district.

As Dr. Creelman remarked, the

district representative must possess versatility and initiative, as it would be futile to provide him with rules for the carrying on of his work. which is extremely varied and in which different and new problems sl-eforced on him for solution daily. while it is also imperative that he shall make a practice of discovering drawbacks to the progress of agricul- ture which would noi. be brought to his notice otherwise. ~ ~ 0f` the 47 representatives acting in Ontario nine are situated in dis- tricts of the northern portion of the province, and -on account of the fact that the agricultural problems en- countered byrthesefmen are largely peculiar to the district, they were cllled last month to a conference at the Government farm at Montelth. Thus, 38 members only _were in at- tendance at the-Guelph conference.

._.,....__.------- _

Raising Colne- fog- __ Dairy. » In the calf club a‘fi-effort ‘hasfibcen

made to centralize the energy od the boys and girls in raising and caring for- dairy calves.. The obleci-S Of U19 calf-club are 'msnyzxthe chief one, however, is to develop ill the boys null girls a` desire to engage in live stbdk' husbandry and at the same time teach them the value oi thrift.

Dairy Club leya Taught How to le- lsct Gees illlk Producers- Mauy plans of organization have been used in these clubs, but the beet one seems to be ll plan that provides for tha calf to be raised by the boy or girl and eventually added to the milking herd of the parent.~ In this way' the juniors are instructed in all the essentials of the rsisingaud car- ing for calves and dairy cows, instead of the caring of the titer! cet-U0 NIM e task it becomes a. pleasure.

,,_,. ...__ __....,._._¢-~

, _

N., plselrlmlllsuop In Ispznél d

_Q young Japanese slrl has o no a license as-'ses Cavillll- H" “alms lo 'tatsu Imsmilo, and sbs rece ve ber training from her father, with °-rhom she sailed tho inland Sea. When she applied for a license UW authorities hesitated. for she was' the first woman who efver sought recog- nition as b skipper. As there' was no provision permitting discrll_nlnll~ tion on account of sex. U10 1939059 Wd* m,u,d_';-From a Department of Laser bulletin.

News loiugnf lull

Important Events Which Have Occurred Dul ing the Week.

Tile Busy World's Happenings Unre-

f\\|l! -Compiled and _Put into Handy and Attractive Shape for the Renders of Our Paper-A Solid Hom-'a lilnloylnent.

TUESDAY.

The entire gross receipts of the

National '~ Horse 'Show in Madison Square Gardens, will be donated to

the United War Work campaign.

Czech troops are disarming Ger-

man-Austrian and Hul-lgarian troops in the Czech towna of Bohemia and Moravia. The Czechshave occupied

several German towns.

Advlces have been received from

Vienna of the impending dissolution of the court and the discharge of the guards, in accordance with events

which have transpired.

Giovanni dl I-‘rancesco was found

guilty by.a jury in Toronto last night of manslaughter, when he was tried upon the charge of killing Dominic Zlngarri on March 29. He was be scu-

tenced on Thursday.

A. T. ’l‘a.lbot, of Toronto, claims he

was robbed, pushed off ll moving train to he killed on the track at Pont Rouge, Que., on the C.P.R. He was found Saturday night lying on the

track near the station.

Establish-ment of il grand court of

allied representatives, civil and mili- tary, for the' purpose of trying those guilty .of crimes during the war, is advocated by Sir Frederick Smith, the

British Attorney-General.

The body of a man drowned in the

Lachlne Canal was identified by his wife and daughter, and buried as that of Arthur Marier. This morning the Toronto police received a. wire from Marier, who sailed from Mont- l'sal'on the barge S. H. Dunn, and

who is now in Toronto.

The Toronto General Ministerial

Association had a. conference yester- day with R. Home Smith, Ontario Fuel Commissioner. They were told positively that the supply of anthra- cite this winter would be so reduced that lt consumption of 50 per cent.

less would be necessitated.

WEDNESDAY.

Thomas Wllitesides, who -placed

bets for Louis S. Maynard, the Dom- inion Bank manager, who stole be- tween $60,000 and $100,000, was sent to the jail farm for six months.

Premier Clemenceau declared in

the Chamber' of Deputies that peace might not be so near as some might think, but he could assure the House that “the fate of the peoples was henceforth fixed.”

Severe rioting has occured at Kiel

after a meeting of sailors, which was addressed by an independent Social- ist. speaker. Military guards tired upon the luutineers, killing 29. The military commander was shot dead.

The Goverllmelli. of Chile took

possession of 84 German ships in- terned in Chilean ports. This action was taken to prevent the crews from sinking the vessels after having de- stroyed vital parts of the machinery.

The London papers reproduce a.

map of the British Irish wat`ers show- ing hundreds upon hundreds of ships the enemy alleges to have sunk by submarines. The map was issued .ls pro-submarine propaganda in Ger- many. -

Emperor Charles found the con-

ditions of the al-mlsticc offered by the Allies so harsh, and considered them so dishonorable, that he would not sign them, says ll Vienna de- spatch to the Berlin Tageblatt. Tile condition were finally signed by Field Marshal Arv von Strausstnburg, the chief of staff.

The Army and Navy Veterans are

protesting against t_he punishment imposed at Toronto on Pte. John Pope, of the 80th Battalion, who was given two years less one day in Bur- wash prison farm because he refus- ed to take electrical treatment for shell shock. The veterans regard such punishment as altogether too harsh. - _. _Mrs..'Lilliall»H. Kain, widow of the late Capt. (Rev.) Roy Kain, told in the witness box, a terrible story ni how her husband was neglected in the Base Hospital, Toronto, at the time of his deuth. Dr. i~I. C. Wales, medical officer in charge. was -rebuk- cd by Crown Attorney Greer for at- tacking the dead chaplain by in- nuendo.

_ THURSDAY. Ohio entered the column of states

where intoxicating liquors cannot be sold'or purchased. -

American prisoners in Germany

ure being badly mistreated in spite of the protests of the American Red Cross;

Negotiations are pending for the

withdrawal ot Field Marshal Mac- kellsen's German armies from Rou- mania.

Preparations are being made for

thc transfer of British and French troops to occupy t_he Dilrdanelles and llosphol-us.

Orill G. Provenchcr, oi Smith's

Falls, a lad of 18 years, was sentenc- oti io ilve years in the Shawbridge Boys! Home, He had set fire i_o some pulpwood.

Mutlnoils German sailors at Kiel

have seized the buttlesllips Kaiser and Schleswig-Holstein, and refused i_o return to their duties until a treaty of peacc with the Allies is signed.

The United States naval authori-

ties iiiiled in their search for ll. nlili- tltry dirigible bnlionll contain six ulllliary aviation students, reported tis lla-ving drifted beyond control over Luke Erie.

A young son of Mr. James Doug-

las, of Fort Stewart, in the northern part of Hastings County, got posses- sion of a dynamite cap which he ex- ploded. The result was his left hand wus terribly lacerated, the thtlmbibc- ing blown off.

An official report from Berlin says:

"The Russian diplomatic representa- -tive will leave Berlin early to-day by special train, for Russia." lt lssnid Germany has demanded thc with- drawal of all Russian representatives in Germany.

Edw. J. Fay. a world notorious

crook and bank robber, known as

N i

"llddie Fay," was found shot to

Steam Laundry smashed every win

death in an allfey in Chicago. There

was a bullet .wound in his head just I

below the right, ear.

A gas explosion at the Sarnia

liowin theplnoeund severely burned wO0| ,lersey P0p|,||a|' Fabri() f0|‘ one of the proprietors, Ml-. McMil-

L0-NG SKIRT IS _

-Ill LIMELIGHT

lon Gas is ed undel the steam

These Simple Gowns.

. \.ls_ _ ‘

boilers, and while lighting this the

llraped Garment Has to Do with

etplosion occurred. _

FRIDAY. Earl Curson,‘m`ember of the Brit-

ish War Council it is announced, has

gone to the eont}nent on oihcial busi-

Imported Models Are Being Shown

‘ fel

_ Early Fall Wear _With s

. Large Collar.

Wool jersey continues to‘be exceed-

the entire Dep rtnlelit of Chemie Warfare, died in London followiu an attack ot p ` umonia.

An ord r in-<Tuncil has been ass

tomefree' list in- Canada.

army through Hungary from th

lay down their arms on Hungaria soil. _

ness. ' _Lt_-C°l- Heli-isop, controller. l.

wise prepared potatoes on the cus-

Balkans providing that the troop

I lllgly popular for the one-piece frocll

g of utmost simplicity. several or e

. gory good looking imported models ar

collar which can be dropped about the Deck. this arrangement being one which

. i? '-- _D

ed putting dried' desiccated or other- shown for early fall wear with a large

M‘°k°“'°“ mu' “ke hi” Germany lends an sir of distinction to its vv ar-

" fashion writer. It also gives an unde-

niable serviceable air to tl typo f

2 I er in these collarless days, observes s

Col, Bruce, who went to London frock which would formerly have don

from France to operate on Lord duty as ll sport costume, but is now

- Walstilne Quesilotl.

illlulleuusl se' cousiulsllso

Net Possible to Wesr Culrass Blollss and Chemise Tunic With the Nar- row Skirt That Sweeps the instep.

New York.-War necessity every-

svherei Illgenuity expressed, there- fore, in a thousand ways. Turning and twisting to find out how good results can be obtained through uncharted channels is the effort of each individ-

Beaverbrook, has _returned to his

considered suitable for all kinds

military duties. Lord Beaverbroo is now out of danger.

Complete and final liberation o

Great Britain and France.

Brown, who lives at Manilla, whil

charging the gun.

Empress Zits. of Austria has aske

lnent. ,to go with her children t

ll. pri-vate individual.

fornia, has handed his resignation i

son, who has represented labor i ille Cabinet i'or sonle time past, i

sion to Mr. Crotherll, and has hee sworn in.

¢-_»_q,~.3ns\ .--.

MONDAY.

defeated. _ _

ccptlon.

It is estimated that over 80,00

rnuto, on Sunday afternoon.

-mnl-ine band, under the leadershi

io' take part ill the Victory Loo caulpaigll.

work of feeding the people in th

Belgium. ~

the l1€0l>lés_of the Eastern Mediter ranean countries from the oppres sion of the Turks are the aims of f°" buck 3959?- this mafeflil be

A fatal accident; befell Mr. Wm.

out shooting robbits. He was walk-

ing along carrying his gun under his arm when he slipped and fell, dis-

The Great Lakes Band, a U. S.

Joseph R. Bruce, superintendent

before tlle’Sugar Pl'ogl‘altl Commit tee_of the International Sugar Com mission.

The Swiss Federal Council has il cided to break off relations with the

bers oi! thc Russian delegation were circulating Boiuileviki prolmgandlti Slvitzerland. -

Tile last note to bc sent to the

oid German Government, before ir. was overthrown was it vigorous pro- test made by the United States against the cruel treatment ol pris- onersof wal-__ _ _Rev. Dr. Chown, in u. message to Methodism ll-l Canada., said that the Allies ill the hour oi victory must rcluenlbel' that they are the trustees of God to see that justice is done in i.he wol‘1d. He uttered fl. warning against, the Jlngo spirit.

walncd the Government that til veterans had to be considered in th illlys to come. They said that. th ilo\'el‘nnlont llud been elected for the -aku of consrription and must now -xpért. some plain speaking.

_ Devil Blue ls Latest.

Devil blue is the latest choice made

for neckvvetlr accessories. Whether the color itself has a_ special charm or not it doesn't mutter; the popularity of the ll‘r_en`ch soldiers, who wear. the \=¢li_il2ua_l1-'9_fa_ul\l€i\ it _fakes ite we stasted the craze. for the color. 7. .a_l¢21n.`3o»»»:.jr_raa-las.-.1 --_- . »-~°~"

_ Where Traveling ls Bad. The Munchner Neueste Nachrich-

ten publishes a sarcastic letter on ` the joys of railway traveling in Gcrnlanyz. _The writer wonders how people: can complain _of railway cal-riage

routo held a meeting,_in which they

- e

V e

The Great War Veterans of To-| _

li formal wear.

° ut

I Navy blue wool Jelsey enjoys ecs _ favor as compared with blue serge, _ but there seems to be a decided vogue

int it r

- surprisingly attractive. Invariably

is embroidered in- bright colors o

e white.

_ One smart black jersey trock for *M13 fail wear was embroidered bold- ly ln black and white chenille

. The

d high collar and girdle were of knitted

permlsalon UL the Prague Govem_ chenille in blnclr and white. There

0 was a crocheted border of white

Brandeis Castle on the Elbc, in Bo- chenille around the tunic and white hemia.. She may enter Bohemia ns

buttons fastened the blouse and tunic down the side front.

lt was officially announced that

Hon. T. W. Crothers, Minister of Anomer wool Jersey Rock was in

Labor, who is -now en route fol' Cali

_ beige and of monastic simplicity, its 0 swothing collar being tied by a severe

Sh. Robert Borden and that it has cord, with weighted ends. This inter- been accepted. Hon. Gideon Robcrt-

esting collar and large patch pockets

ll afforded the only note of relief to the n severity of this model. '

addition to acting as chairman of the Satin gs very' mud, used for the mid. Canadian Registration Beard, has been appointed Minister in succes_ season frock and numerous smart new

n df-‘signs in black, gray und blue satin

are appearing these days.

A particularly smart model In tllupe

satin was seen recently. The gown is

An efg°|~¢ to give the vote L0 tm fashioned ou Russian lines and has no

women of the state of Louisiana was

trimming save for ll narrow frill of white at the neck and sleeves. The

Vilbjalma.r_ Stefansson, the Arctic blouse is fastened nt the left side of

explorer, paid at visit to Toronto, where he was accorded at civic re-

the front with small round material buttons. ~

people attended the great service oi’ SKIRT THAT SHOULD APPEAL thanksgiving in Queen's Park, To-

-»_3§.1->'. .

_ .-,, ._ wr _'_::`_»: .- _

‘lf ,L-’_\';-..:_=-' _'..E_f'l<f`._.'a-.'-'-, l;'*_`!_i; __-~---.,.1`.»;._;:<. ~ .-5-___,,___ _-14-_; .

D _ _ ___4_____ _ __ _ _ _

of John Phill Sousa, visits Canada -'-»;i¢»§’.=_i'-‘=‘_f-_é-j'fi,`2_'»_`f " . -_-.,

11 = ' ‘ .-_ 'wr -_ " =>1=%- -i ti-1 -2 -;={=i-*=_‘---;:--_---‘

U. S. Food Administrator Hoover 'gt-_fx-;¢:._.f_3§.:,._-_;;.ti ;_._-. ____ I

will go to Europe to look after the ,';,-'_..-_____L;_

" ri.l¢`-e'i;<.1;s¢i§-tr" 5;.. -_,‘f

redeemed portions of France and .`.e.:=_i_;;-D-;;_,__._j:_,-.' _;=a.;i»_ "`“=="-1-'».-_--_ _-,_-,1-1_,-,_

\.¢.i ...N , ,. t

.51-E5_-_i>l5`,I: ;;%;§:;f_-"`f1` - ~ ; _:§"»3` _ r`_ :;Ej`:;;__ ‘~‘ 15151:-: if-'F'-= _ __ - w -¢._»,_l_- ' ~ ~ -si;-if-~;. 3

-_2=.-‘;:<“-f'-elt-* --T-e_1~_.' :.1-_.;:~._ ‘_

of the Royal Bank of Canada., has- ;,,_l,{`,',_-` -‘-='{':,;‘-3§,v.____="~ __,_;';.";’t_l_;_._-,-f--.j. been ,appointed to _represent Canada [3 ;__j-'I‘ -;_-_____.'>-‘s=1€--»§;#,,>,s." ‘_

' ;`?" 'I ‘li '<25'-_`*'L _"1-1. "'-ff _

9` ` >` ` A. » . , " " 't‘ 23 t 115; ~<~ y .

Russian Soviet Mission. The mem- " -- Milt) .,f ` W _ 1,, \ > .p

3, \` -*- .;; ._

: - :‘-'_i_»,jj.l,~ .ids-;_ ,x »

;‘€:~" *~. =1=;

| 3’e2f;2i-="§}_f: :.1 y

'ii-1- '-wr;

| ,_ -. ,_;;;_»

._; -. 51 :<‘,4"_`§_§:;__

>< ’ \ . ~ 4

ag.

-.-

"` awlt .A

_ . ..-

~ .l l

’ . .‘- -. -» -c ».,...

5° \

9 Q’W{“ ..'..;',,

-._ _F T. =‘ - ‘

-'~ - ' -- _r ,.-_ -.~:>~=-:.1-'-ow---.-' -:'»~'1»zr'.:r:=- _.-1- 1- _ If -`= rv.-or =-‘1_r'.f 2:1- A ,.=

' ‘5";"-`-""1"-‘-"'-"'52"`:7f"":"` E12". ';f§'fEr::r"l§f~"'-11:1*_` ':- _.1

Separate skirt of silk peplln, with

pointed tunic at aides arid back. The Hat girdle of poplln Is finished with bead tasssls.

T0 MAKE THE PARASOL BAG

Contrivance Is _Roemy, Easily Spread ____Qp_c.rl_a_nd Vcry__ Beautiful-Yellow Lining for Black.

lf you haue a handsome paraeoi be-

ginning to show wear at the center et the top, carefully remove the silk from the frame and cnt out a circle 5 inches i ill diameter. ‘ From new silk, in a shade to match

not being heated, when they relnelll- ber how llnportullt it is not to scorch their costly boots upon hot pipes. lie thinks it is a great advantage t

down, ow ng _ ' nlr wilell-_sof many passengers are -_lmokillg beech leaves and hops, And what does it matter if the iioor is zlirtyysecing that it is clean in com-

Flanders.

ulats is welcome evidence of official

sei-ves to pigs. As* regards the state of smoking carriages, the writer can

People complain that the trains -are lllte-- twenty minutes' or an hour, or nn hour and tl half. What folly. since they never before knew tile un-

.. Again,` people _complain that tho

are warm.

the prcdomlnutlng color, cut two cir- - cies 7 inches lll_ diameter. placing pastebosrd between these. Fit this in- to the opening made in the center of

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travel in ll carriage with broken will- _

, to the need for flesh _ the parasol, this ifrming the bottom of

tl bag.

At the points of pttrnsol sew rings

covered with single crochet stitch. Through rings drnvv silk cord. flulsbillg

iiI\1'iS0H Wil-h the °“`3’“P5 ln with large tasscis sud also place tos-

3 sell at bottom of bug.

Then, again, the absence of toot- This bag ls roomy, many spread

_ _ d wh'_n_ 0-me ay that open and very beautiful. if silk ls ii:l‘:aml~la’.Iii,vvl;1; cal-riilgegc? are like pig- f-Nfl f\‘0lU W0". il “H1118 CID 08811! U9 sites they are only comparing them- added, using s section of parasol for

pattern.

, I A black parasol lined with bright yel-

only suggest that it miggtbe wellkw tow with black cord and tassels would m'°"d° “°“'°.m°l“”° ‘-vi* ka” ma' S' be very effective. A bunch of yellow

silk oranges could be uddcd.

___...._._._._--

Cspeooate of Mohair.

BDPH\<llb|° 50Y>ih°t *MY fee' When °° Smart capecollts are of navy blue U`“'|“"|°°°`“"`l“‘""“"W°!‘ ' ` ' mohllir with lining of blue and white

~ - folllllrd. \'1`llese copes nro pitulsllntly

trains arc slow, although they often - _ Zn the past pined for the good old 1133*' :ld e“;ly_it°t°“""ty ‘ger :£1121 days of the stage coach. Now those “ll 0 0|' 5" i- 9" Pm “_ 0” l _ times have returned, and passengers mei* BVOUIDKS- They nrt? Lil! iii 1 10 PH" can get out and walk when their feet. vnlling lines, with crossed wnistcout are cold. and got in again when they, suction thot holds the full cnpc to the

l figure ut the front. _

ual, the mass of shops, and the host

of designers.

This is the summing up. writes a

fashion authority, of the entire spirit as expressed in women's apparel. lt ‘it not a continental spirit; it is a tvorld spirit. It pervades lands where lighting is unknown; it rules in homes from which no lighters have gone and ill which there has always been xl sc- rene ccntldence in the ability to ar- rive at a comfortable conclusion.

The old, easy method of dressing

has vanished. Perhaps lt is gone for- ever. it is a temptation to dip but-k into the past rind recount the episodic lldventurcs -nntl experiences throullll which women htlve gone whcn BTW!" wars devastated ll country and used up its raw materials.

it is not only the constitution that

| follows the dug; it is womcn’s uppnrel that follows it for yeurs after the flag has ceased to be it symbol of battle und remains only a symbol of ptltriot- ism. All the great wars have ded- uiteiy changed the course of women's clothes, although they may not lliiV9 loft upon them the lasting impres- sions that-Wars have left upon nlell'e clothes. The ulnle portion of the world rarely thinks of this fact-that ever! garment he wears is almost directly responsible to some explosion of man- _ kind.

Rcverting to Pioneer Days. 1 lt is no simple tiling io saunter' flown Main street' totllly, drop into il shop and buy any kind ot’ galloon, braid, embroidery or other ornamen- tntlon for gowns. One finds that man- llfuctul-ed articles are becoming more :ind more limited. The war industries bollril has zone illtn`tllc situation with such thot-ollghllf-ss that mtlnufacturrrs lmvc been reuucstetl to lop oif several ‘Jhoustlnli items that ure considered as lmllcsseutinls.

(lncc upon a time this world, which

donrly loves u phrase. twisted and iul-limi tile worzis “irreducible nlilll- 'luunl" ill ffllltilstic wnys to suit tl va- riety of meullingu. This phrase was a

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The sketch shows a gown of heavy

black satin, with a barrel effect ob- tained in the skirt through width st the hips and narrowneae at the hem,

|and the whole surface Il-ld with fiat |tucks. The tight bodice finishes at the - normal waistline with a narrow cravat ibclt. There is a fence collar of white iorgandle. Thc`i'luted hat is of black satin with a crown of crmine. `

sister ln popularity to l°l'f‘f=lilCl1t Cleve- lnn<l's fnmous “innocuous ilcsiletudc." Tndily the expression that has super- ` soiled ull others is “the elimination of lli-l\i=ssentials." and there are thou- j sands of women who will tell you that

itllnt moons both “irreducible mini- |muul" nud "innocuous desuetudc." lt is well for nn extravagant continent ihnt tho irroducillle minimum can be al‘rl\-odat tllrougll compulsion. _

Trimmed with Blta of 'l'hcmselves._ A rcport of what women have delle

in devising ornnnlentatloll for their , clothes would relld us on Interesting hit of wal' history. Out from the depths have come some of thc orna- i lnelltxltions. The designers, however. -

lm rotate um ala wt my tl sur'

s gown ta with ltssif. little danger then of its ` I patchwork quilt. ` x Tuck# ha_v°__ returned- tl\°l'¢I°_'°- 'rltsy have launched on tilesw autumn-go‘lm’s.aa .nmetnlps of s- sev- elty. _They are not pernl_ltted_ in weal- enclotlies. because tl! ¢°!srliav|li¢ uslib us to omit every inch of _super- iiuhua womeo‘ millet-tai. but we..are omitting it by U10 d the inch. and ate__il_l_ldlng qulp- t-zllitm with t h v s h w in

hat s e' only -das -ef `tiiem. and-o nnooe st sil_. A women _depends on rs; copes and top costs

for warmth.

As for .the materials. which are

avaliable today, they may last through the winter. There ls mitch Nik of wearing satin, tsffetn., pongce Ind vl-

(ll

'fu

1.1-sv

Wlde tucks trim the moat fastldieus

gowns. The frock le of heavy Chinese silk, with -tucks from hip to hem and a row of white crochet buttons. The full sleeves are hold ln- with tucked wristleta

rtous heavy Chinese sllks throughout the cold weather, making them com- fortnblc for the open or for beatles! houses by the addition of warm un-

dcru-cur and top coverings.

The designers have banked heavily

on the usage of thin materials for nelt winter and therefore they have brought about this resurrected fash- ion of trimming a gown with itself. whlch is quite easily done when the material is soft and pliable.

When tucks are used they are sr-

ranged horimlntally. They do not con- fuse themselves with pleats. which are vertical. A few of the new skirts are tucked from the bone of the hips to me hem, the tucks touching each oth- er and made from an inch to two inches wide. Sometimes this consti- tutes the entire trimming of a goiwl. But when the skirt ls extra narrow at the hem the barrel effect ts more striking than it has been for tws years.

Feulard First choice for Autumn. There is really an extraordinary

amount of fouiard worn in the change- able September weather. It is so com- fortable in the house, and ao esaii! covered in the open, that it presents itself as first aid to being well dressed.

There are broadly checked foulsrds

in black and white, and others that have a dnll blue or orange stripe or figure running through the checks. Whatever the choice, they are made simply. One does not go in for Chl- nese blue. pink or amethyst these days, except when one wears gowns in the house that have served through the summer, but colors such as black curl white, purple and brown, gray and deep blue are chosen in these follsrdl for the street.

This fabric lends itself admirably

tn self-trimming. The skirts are tuck- ed from hip to hem or knees to hell. und when there is a peplum or a long Chemise tunic it has Ive or sldlt tucks to finish lt. '_

Affecting the wsliillne.

There ls no possibility of reducing

our wnlsts to a small measurement. The plunked-shad type which has pre- vlliled for eight years can wear its rushes where lt pleases. but what vlhout the thousands of other women, tl-_in nod stout. who have allowed thi-lr waists to broaden out into sculp- tural. measurements? 'These' walsts have muscles that are strong and un- piinhlé. and they “ill not be squeezed in by corsets. Therefore, ly the willow type-the slim. llttlefteneless youngster-can pull in her waist and ue a ml. mono it wits impunity. one thing is practically certaih: ff

the tight. draped skirt brings back .the normal waist. women will allow the straight line of their dgures to dew iillue, and they will manly drape the waist in its new. large measurements. iwtthout an attempt to mass them- * selves uncomfortable. ' ‘tCepyrignt, itll. by the lloC‘luge Newb-

peser ancients.) _

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