By JANET KASK MONTREAL (CP) The htspare look." draped in cloaks. tunics. and full coats-—many in ill . canadi-on fabrics — high- lighted the fail-winter collection -- of thr Association of Canadian Couturiers.

The association's l7.‘h ‘ bined collection. featuring crea- tions by 12 ran ti‘-~. gamut from the slim. - mannish loook to the very fem- inine romantic. with a touch of -i he Renaissance.

@°Tlie influence of the Far East

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ntinued its popularity with he frequent use- of rich. gold paisley patterns in East Indian ~ silks. and slim gowns draped with tunics or stoles. Costumes were particularity ~- popular with Raoul Jean Foiire iintroducing the “L” line into a - series of elegant tunic - suits. ‘ from daytime to evening wear. . The “"L" was marked by a cut- \ out. cutaway treatment from neckline to hipiine. Two of his outstanding crea- tions were El Cid, a flaired red coat in Canadian viscose, vei- vet applique with jet sequins covering a black viscose velvet slicatli and El Dorado, a slim,

match- Mario Dinardo of ai introduced the pant-skirt, variation of the eulotte. Using combinations of black and brown and grey and brown. he showed tunic - coats and cloaks ' fastened at the top and back. Angelina of Toronto made all her creations one-piece. avoid- ing cuts as much as possible in draping and substituting seams Instea . Lou Berai of St. Catharlnes. 0nt.. showed a ollection of town and country costumes in Canadian wool - and rlon tweeds. featuring cape tops and cape slcceves. Montreal's Danjou. specializ- ing in the convertible costume. showed more dressy creations with big backed coats and cloaks over matching gowns. The theme East meets West was in the creations of Eve Lyn of Montreal—a green suit in Ca- nadian orion - and - wool tweed combined with an Indian cash- mere shawl and dinner dress in one piece. - France Davies of Montreal showed a dramatic collection iemphasizing femininity an "sober - elegant" while Marie .Antoinette also of Montreal fea- tured clothes with the Trompe- ‘oeil. uneven hemlines in some cases.

INTRODUCES

anadian designers -

Iewelry has leading role’

Fllli siisr snows isriuiéscr ‘Spare? look’ highlights collections.

mink-colored culottes attached to the dark grey skirt in this

BARELY VISIBLE are the outfit, featuring a skirt slit l

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up both sides. The suit (by Mario DiNardo of Montreal) in a pcttipoint weave of wool and Orion acrylic fibre was I

shown at the Montreal display of the Association of Cana- dian Couturlers.

(CP Photo).

Flat. fluffy. flattering furs flying

The fur is ﬂying in this fall's fashions. Outside. inside. from the flat furs to the fluffy ones. it's definitely a fur year as American for designers bring furs to an all - time fashion standard iii h

ety of styles available. There's s shape for every figure. Fitted an ltcd are h most vanced. Lightly shaped, and full are most dom nsnt. Seven- eighth: and fin- gertip are top lengths.

The fitted silhouette is typi- cal of the kind of new shaping that goes into the making of the most feminine look. with ﬂuid skirts for lean figures and flat furs such Alaska for seal.

FEMININE LOOK

Lightly shaped. both slim and full, encompasses new era chesterfields. coachman. reef- ers and trenchcoats, plus basic casuals enlivened with indi- vidual detailing, especially the many front shaped free back styles, interpreted in all from leopard to mink. Otters ocelots and opossums are the fashion swing. too. Seven -eighths and fi lengths are iedal for newly gant little boy looks. or rajah ‘costs and Oriental-flavored tu- nics — many bordered wit h contrasting fur trims, such as Southwest African Persian lamb with mink or sable. MAKING SUIT SCENE

Flchus, triangular scarfs. boas, blazers. peacoats. barrel back jackets and ponchos ea stoles.

Furs have made the suit scene in greater number with a cast that includes most of the flat hair them. broadtail and Lakoda natural sheared Alaska fur seal.

y coats are elegantly tailored with trim finishing touches of fabric or leather bindings, or dressed up with

"Runlcss" “Non-ru=n." "Run- reslstant." These terms applied increasing variety of stockings. highlight the prin- cipal news in hosiery for fall.

Meshy in construction. ti): stockings are said not to run in normal wear, and some are accompanied uarantees against runs. Early-in-use tests indicate that while the stock- ings may not be indestructible, they will. at the least, “run

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Against in background of ele- cantly - simple fashions in rich fabrics. jewelry plays a leading role for fall. _

Far Eastern look. with Egyp- tian and Indian influences. is one of the most important. in- terpreted in colorful bibs and collars. pendant pins. long ear- rings. outsiae rings. bracelets to multiply several to an arm. Pins are everywhere. in every shape. Large and bold, but light in weight. they blame with colorful stones or gleam with classic gold and pearls.

To fill in bateau or V neck- liiies are necklaces aglow with colorful stones or beads. These have the importance of a scarf or collar.

There's a “western influence" in necklaces. too. provided by shorter. tasseled lariats. Jewelry of all sorts stresses quality and the real look. wealth of gold appears. along with pearls and Jet. And there are _many precious and semi- Drecious gems.

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Diversity, Opulence Mark Shapelier New Styles

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Double ,1 breasted longer lacket with fur trim, ‘OPS s pencil-slim skirt.

SUNTER’S

Ladies‘ Wear iszcit. George fw 4-sci

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What's new in hosiery?

For Men's Wear Fashions

SPORT COATS

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vored with some other hue. ,, .. Delicate grays with a b l u e 1955- Wm‘ l°“g°" wearmg q““l' cast and beiges touched with ities than stockings of conven- greenish tones are two of fairs’ “°“°l °°"5tr“°ti°“' most important basic on - the-

Run- I‘ES|SlB|1l featllfﬁ 8PDll€S leg colors. Golden tones and l0 the body 01' the Stocking. ﬁnd reddened browns step forward.

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not to heels. toes or weits. CASUAL WEAR Since the new hoisery - tended primarily for casual daytime wear. there is also a wealth of fashion news in col- _ on and new textures for dress. for casual wear: paisleys B r o w n s, outstanding in . Orientals for evening.

PRINTS VARY

Many moods of fall fashion are expressed in new prints- checks. foulards, plaids, calicos an

For iltl

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Large plaids are featured l in fall and winter fashions he- . ing shown by the New York ; l Couture Group. The wrapped i

Casually chic, elegant

Maternity clothes are casu-' -ally chic for day and elegant for evening. Ladies - in-waiting: can wear fall fashion’s newest} silhouettes, adapted for the‘; - l

lsable or chinchilla. Collars are: :muffied very high. stay away from the neck or are complete- ly eliminated. achieving th e clean cardigan neckline. l

GE PLBIDS IN STYLE

11110 Guardian-The Evening Patriot

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printed French smock.

After -five maternity clothes -create a flattering illusion of slenderness. Silk chiffons with lfloating panels. capelets or ruf-

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fies. lavishly embroider"-;i sari- infiucnced dresses. and tinder- stated black veivrts s‘ar.

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throat. featured in this con i, is also a fashion highlight this year.

(CP Photo). :' :1 Choose your China pattern

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needs of changing figures. Free-flowing shifts compete with easy maternity suits. Maternity sportswear in- cludes Western look suspender skirts and ‘cowboy shirts. The current Indian influence ap- pears in rajah tunics paired with pants. From Paris comes fashion's latest love, th pea jacket, as well as the brilliantly

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