, York have

Will Canadians accept silhouette?

By MARGARET NESS

NEW YORK (CP)—The tent silhouette is back,

Probably Canadians won't be wearing it until spring. We al- ways have to ‘see a style in newspaper and magazine photo- graphs for at least six months before we're, willing to gamble on it.

But 10 days of ‘sahbanteaiad fall fashion showings in New placed the tent

. tilthouette right in the forefront.

_ and stripes

It appéared all the collec- coe

Tt isn’t always called a tent. One fashion writer renamed = it the wigwam, as more appropri- ate for North America. Many ef the designers referred to it es the pyramid. This’ word geemed more in keeping .than tent with the return-to-elegatice theme noticeable in most of the collections. Other designers came up with dome. For those who were holdouts for the con- tinued bouncy young _the swinger.

Whatever you. call the new silhouette, it's wide skirted. Some of Pauline Trigere’s coats measured at: least 5% around.the hem.

in

The tent. coat swings hee 1

sma!! shoulders or from under a high flat bosom. Many of the designers _combine~the . tight,. high-neckéd rajah shape the top with a flaring hemline.

Tent coats appeared in all the.

winter fabrics, in tweeds, plaids They came in the bright new fall colors, too. Nor- man Norell featured a vivid pumpkin tent scoat and skirt combined with a bright blue turtleneck blouse.

Bright. colors_are also favor- ttes with Philip Tournaye, de- signer for Modelia. Or else he

“Hikes_his_big-coats_in-two-colors,

such as black with a camel

"A turquoise seven - eighths- length tent coat was teamed by Adele Simpson with a black-

~ and - white horizontally-

striped dress

Geoffrey Benne introduced the flaring silhouette in his new pseudo-suits, designed to be worn in place of a dréss. They look- like -a: two-piece. suit but aren't intended to be-~ worn with a blouse.

The jacket. which he calls rickshaw, is in pyramid shape, narrow at the shoulders and flares wide and low over a’ slim skirt. One interesting pseudo-suit was in steel-grey

mnel. He also = likes

brics as. tweeds, heavy silk crepes new suit. style.

The use of the tent silhouette in afternoon and evening fabrics is new but the silhouette itself

appeared some 20 years ago. This was the Joose-swingtig coat.

There was an ‘inert dif- ference. however,. In 1947 Chris- tian— Dior plunged the skirt down to mid-calf. So these tent coats really were tents. Today’s version-is short; as short as the dresses they cover. That's prob- ably the reason for the half- humorous description of fall's big coat as the pup-tent.’

The early tent silhouette was |

confined . to its. Now. it. in-

“eludes dresses. Tt is a change 1

from the slim sheath we've had

for so many seasons. And it by- |

passes the waist.

Mollie Parnis ‘likes the sil- houette in a soft, fluid but full shape which swings wide at the

hem. Donald Brooks calls his |

version the swing. “It begins at a deliberately flattened high bo- sor and then conceals. its ful- ness within an enormously deep inverted fold. at the front,” he Says. Wragge introduces a black yoke and black sleeves in a black-and-white tweed tent. dress.

For evening

the tent. sil-

y ards :

at |

such |

antk silk satins for. its

There was a big flora! printed cire coat in blues and yellows by Tournaye for Modelia. Oleg

Cassini presented poison green | sille with stained-glass circles.

'The ‘ensemble’ , feplaces classic single garment

lin Canadian coats, suits and en- ; \sembles for Fall and most of it thas to do- with fabrics. The en- semble look has taken over from the classic coat of suit that stands alone and it i« creat- ed with matching, co-ordinating lor contrasting fabrie textures and colors.

‘Just about every tmportant

it. Suits have three, even four | ipieces and the pant suit has” jturned up in regular suit collec itions to add spice to the variety.

Double-faced fabries and i ors are contrasted to give the g tegether—look—to—coats, dream and suits. Reversible coats often | turn from check or plaid to plain and the dress underneath re ipeats the fabric detail. | Some of the smartest suits Hollow —the—-dress-plus-—jacket- ‘formula. Often they are i dow- | ible-faced fabrics in two colors. The dress may appear to repeat poe color scheme of the’ jacket until-it is removed to reveal a | bodice ofa contrasting color. Coat silhouettes this year are | contradictory. Most follow skinny line but the new tent coat is seen in every; collection: small at the shoulders and swinging . wide. -.at ..the hemline. The officers’ greatcoat with ep-| aulettes and brass buttons is jreminiscent of the romantic fa-

movie. Plaids, checks, tweeds, diag- ona! twills and hard- surfaced

wools like gabardines are favor- | ite fabrics this year for coats and suits. In colors, the mem- bers of the plum. family, burgun- dy, and grape hold down top

position. Following close behind ~jare navy, colors of the brown family from. putty to cognac,

“the new tent silhouette for fall. The

THE FULL A-shaped dress in — checks’*by Wragge, and_ the floor: belted dress has a itted collar, Canadian manufacturers are length formal in pale yellow with a (cP Photo) é 5 sae bat melts a = oe

: { ts jewelled yoke, by Dominic, show i ade year Aig os Bap eign 8 houette becomes spectacular. Mollie Parnis created 2 einige 3 legged evening pyjamas and

'print. velvet dome on chiffon to look, perched Seguishly above a \jumpsuits have swept the fash- look like animated snakeskin. ‘coat. and dress, preferably in jion capitals of the world, but Mrs

For ultra-elegance there was ‘matching fabrics. |Average Canadian Consumer is her dome formal gown of pale | Another popular -shape is in-jlagging behind in her accept-

a total one and the latest hats go a long way toward creating this new integrated _oulook. | In keeping wih the emphasis on a total look, materials for fall millinery either blend with or match costumes and are shaped ‘|with an eye to new. silhouettes.

Shapes are small and close to |

N ewest millinery is close to head >

The fashion picture for fall is the head

pink satin, the long sleeves and lieleed by the Green Beret and ance of the trend. Our manufae-

shoulders paved in jewels. tends itself beautifully to ~soft |turers believe they will yet con- ifelts that blend with Fall fabrieBvert Mrs. A., judging from the and hues. - number of pant suit styles in the .Turbans that completely cov- |Fal! collections :

er the hair reflect the trend to softness; these often match their more than one color. Close cous- in to the turban is the scarfed, fez, usually draped in self-fab- rie and providing a dramatic focal point for any ensemble. .

varied.

tops, most of-

And of all things, the : to complement such inial beanie is enjoying a eal ten.in knits, and with matching styles as the skinny dress and jackets, Norfolk hunting jackets

the subtly flared coat. Fests sant ap. the beck od maa Jersey, 80 adaptable to the |head. It offers the perfect top-

There is lots of fashion , news

coat has a dress that goes under

the |

ishion era of the Dr. Zhivago |

—

(Unusual fabrics for bridal wear

The girl who plans to be mar- ried this fall will find that brid- al styles are following the new ., “high fashion’’ look

Accent 's on the use of new fabrics. Pace- -setting bridal‘ fa- brics are described as woolly, nubby and tweedy. Some are Florentine velvet, corduroy, wool Tace, mohair, tapestry and even suede!

Although there are many

Tent coats ‘are‘fresh |

inno-

fall trend |

| “Tenting today” is the theme jsong for fall, and new coats |pitch their tents in the height of | fashion. : | True tent shape, narrowed at the top and spreading toward

tthe-hem, adapts well-to full len- 7

eth ‘coats in windowpane and jtattersall checks, frothy tweeds, smooth zibelines, crisp gabar- | jdines. Of course, “full: length’’ is | somewhat abbreviated for fall, las coats, too, raise_ their —hem- ilines.

Other coats are dubbed “pup

jtents,” for their swingy shapes} —

jand their still-shorter lengths. — | three-quarter or, more often, | seven-eighths.

For slimmer coats, - bit of ‘added fullness frequently sug- gests the tent-trend in fall fash- ion

While the tent is the newest icoat shape, there. are fashion- approved silhouettes of every description from cigarette-slim lto graceful wrap styles. Panels, front or back, give many coats a_fresh_look..and-provide—an—air of motion without bulky width. Closings chance the face of | fashion. For dnstance, there's ithe fencer’s look, for coats that ibegin by —buttoning wide, ‘with the buttons then narrowing to a closer formation.

Both double and single breast- ed styles appear, usually with-a

|

other coats. Sometimes, these jside closings are bordered in ifull— just one of many ways fall fashion, transforms “Fur trimmed” into’ a totally new idea.

“Im general, fa'l’s approach to \fur for coat adornment is lavish. |The demure little collar of mink jor opposum or other favored fur - gives way to the “high rise’ ruff of fur—the better to flatter a lady’s face. i Coats are not only _ collared

fur for luxurious looks as Foal as: warmth.

The army and the navy con. tribute style> ~insp spiration for

soft, wrapped look so favored by’! ping for the narrowed suite and designers, emerges as an impor- dresses so popular for fall. tant fabric, for fall ‘millinery.| Still another classic, the roller,

THE BARED LOOK Se ee

Jersey clothes and caps wil] be gets a-new treatment this sea-|arrangements on season's seen on smart heads everywhere son... it's small, softer- looking newest bra tshions a ithis season. ‘and -more in= keeping with te-|ate backless ses,

The cap is a favorite young day's youth snap. halter and plunging

e

Look pretty even wid a red dose

Chie, according to authorities, is the essence of sual refine- ment. It is am almost indefinab- le quality, characterized by. pr4se and good taste.

Feeling and looking your best helps to/ make you feel chic, and others view you as such. How- ever, that ubiquitous spoiler of special occasions, the common cold, has been known to stam- pede poise in the most elegant of. women, with a wave of sneez- | es and sniffles. — '

You can fight a cold— you ean’t “cure’’ it— and look pois- ed and attractive at the same. time, however, according to the makers of cold remedies.

They recommend getting ade- quate rest and following the common sense health Tules—but there is more to it than that, they claim.

‘You should dress warmly, for example, whatever the occasion.

You can avoid spoiling the effect . 4

of fall fashions with layers of sweaters by wearing one of the newer, thin, close-fitting under- shirts designed for women. They come with Y-necks, low. necklin- es and with short or no sleeves so detection is impossible under your most “‘dressy’’ creations. |

Also recommended is closer attention to makeup. Cream your face frequently, especially around the nose, to prevent skin | from becoming red and chap-

ped. Also, don’t blow your nose

Me

too vigorously. In addition to marring the complexion, lieavy blowing can damage the mem- branes of an inflamed nose, and also force infectious material in- to the inner ear.

Other ways to recapture ‘your chic when cold-ridden-is to wear a light, perky perfume. Also dress-up your eyes with extra makeup to give them ‘‘sparkle ‘wd_carry some of the newer pa- | pa tissues that’ comé in. bright

patterns = colors,

LePAGE SHOE Co. Lid.

133 Grafton Street

LONG ON

Beguiling pumps with big floppy bows, straps that dip and swoop, ‘and heels that swerve in and curve out are among new collection. ,

5%

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oma ge N

Dial 4-4748

with golden orange flowers.—

many lively coats

Those lovely, lively wools -

. Step keep up with those ite va colored sheer jwools that find their way into ‘fall's. favorite silhouettes.

The tent: plum wool spashed

The sheltered shift... hooded 'zip- front skinny dress im pais- ‘ley border print wool.

Both. dresses are wonderfully versatile, go from desk te date with great aplomb.

COLOR APPEAL " Birthstone rings, besides their timeless and traditional appeal. hold an important place in the

' Ffashion picture because they add

a dash of color.

See The Latest Fall Fashions In 2

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_ Yes, it's a new-era.of fall fashions. styled.

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ice of the fashion, while the looser, more eoat 1s removed, the briae nas a

flowing back gives a gracefulfashionable dress suitable for af- ‘BD appearance to the over-all sil- ter-the-wedding occasions houette and allows more ease in’ Headpieces, ‘too, reflect the The predominant new style walking. too fashion news. Sailor hats, cloch- so fashion reports say, A great demand has been not- jes and ‘‘little girl’ visor caps a controlled front with a: skim- ed for coats te be worn with bri- are offered for fall The youthful, hign- dat gowns over a‘simple ‘sheath Many of thes rrested bodice has the look. of dress. ing or short When the have loose cage

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FUR TRIMMED - oT

Fur widens its borders em lurur- tously trimmed coats for fall and winter, increasing their beauty .

highlighting their magnificent ehapings. Come, choose your new ‘eoat from amongst. our newly ar- ‘Tived selections... im petite te gen- @rous sizes. >

Besides the exciting styles fm our Coat Department, we have much that is-new end interesting im cur Sportswear and Dress. De- partments. See these aew ereations of Canada’s fere- most manufacturers soce!

3

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Slipcovers

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