a

The 04 i. VExammner

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THE DAILY EXAMINER

JANUARY iY, 1898.

FROM OCEAN TU OCEAN

A borrowed title yet» vew one; for tts conuctation bas suffered cuarge. To Priocipal Grant it stood for # mighty achievement; to us fora pleasurable ex- eursieono. For our fathers the words were brimful of dangers and didicalties, of um-

persibility, in fact; the present generation |

thinks of them in Connection with awed-

ding érip.

When a traveiler has a hairbreadth escape to recount for every day’s journey accomplished a narrative of his experiences is replete with interest; when one tells of new things men deligntto listen; but, when peither dramatic qualities nor novel ty can be claimed for one’s experiences, description alone must fail to satisfy. Therefore it is that I will eodeavor not to depict the scenes that offer themselves to me on my wayfrom the fiem of the Gulf to the Land of Gold bat rather to record the impressions they inprint, the memories they invoke.

As a loyai Canadian, one feele loath to accept aught that has its source in Gold-~ win Smith's “Canada aod the Canadian Question,” yet his definition of the geo- graphical situation of Canada has unques tionably mucb truth. Look as we piease we can not see in our Dominion ao un- broked stretch of harvest bearing country. Theiand on either vide of our great transcontinental line of railway does not invite at every point. Goldwin Smith describes our babitable territory as dis- connected capes of fertile land runziag from the international boundary lise northwards iato a sea of wilderness. Disconnected, they were before Confed- eration; disconnected, indeed,they were before the Canadian Pacific Railway was built; butnow they are so packed together, so closely morticed one into another that the longest anit of time required to reckon the distance between the farthest outlying portions is a week. The geographically distinct headlands of fertility are now all etrung on one unbreken steel line. Geo- graphically disconnected, they are drawn together by railway facilities and welded into political unity by the bammering ot United States Legislative enactments.

Looking at a map of North America we see that the State of Maine lies between the Maritime Provinces and Quebec. This part of the sea, beating againet the head- lands as far asit can be seen from the Railway, we grant at cance to be wilderness.

It baz veither beauty nor tertilityto cry mercy forit. The blight of unredeemed barreuness lies like acarse npon it. IIl- gvtien gains seldom proeper. The dwarfed undergrowth and the dry rampikes etand as monuments ofthe dgceit by which it wsst.ken from us. 4 hgadgful of soil

THE DAILY

| eons as all nerters cre and obliging, much ‘heted with babies and women with bundles, and what bundles. It would make anyone but a colored porter send in ation at once to have to dispose ) « yet our porter never was in the least worried. Hewould come with | broom ten times aday and clean up the berth of a lady and ten year oli child, he p a flurried lady get her traps io rder though they were piled veck high around her; he would explain the mvsteries of the timetable for an hour at a stretch to so irascible old gentleman who is quite ve he is on the wrong train, or that the train he is on is onthe wrong track, | he would listen to the patronizing twaddle hallow fop with allthe meekoe-s of | a henpecked husband; tut, Ob ! how little be thinks of one who on parting fails to | give hime his tip. ben there is the dining-room couduactor.

| his resis

of them;

posit

= ae

| This personage stalks through the car at fixed intervals with e strange dign'ty and

in {the solemn tones of a hierophsnt proclaiming the decrees of fate announces “Dinuer 18 now ready in the dining car,” or, “last cali for luoch in the dining car,” as the case may be. If the Great Sibyl were his mother he could pot be more ominously grave. Le is ueually far, some-

|

times unusually so, and his counten- ance advertises Lis wares. The conductor and brakeman call for no remark.

Among our fellow-travellere there were several Knglish people. A mining engi- neer is particularly wortuy ot note, astroug strapping, muscular,c ean~shaved fell >w in | his prime, @ great traveller like all Eag- lish tourists, knows absolutely everything, and thinks the natives densely ignoraut, is accordingly quite willing to instruct, if you cao pardon the good-natured compis- cency @f his manner, a very takeable, sociable kind of fellow. Then there @ 60h a)~=oyonng) «=New York dandy with his bride on the hovey- moon. Naturally enough for them there were but two in the carand their privacy is sacred. A New Brunswick lawyer travelling on busivess,ever b stling,m skiog periodic rounds of the car w have « chat, fullof information and always ready to maintain the greatness of Cunida and the littlenese of the United Stater, a solemn

livener of the company. There were seve- ral men guing to the Klondike, and others of both sexes, filled in and al! played their part in our society.

In the morning the scene bas changed. The soil seems to have vanished and the bare face of the col. grey stone is visible on every side. A few stunted trees hold fast to the crevices of the stone and fizht foraliving. Ali sigos of human and ani mal Jife are wanting, but the very Larrenness lends a certain attraction to the landscape. The utter hopelessness of the country removes all regret for what might have been, and when the lake appears and we run through tne headlands ot reddish colored stone and over arms of the sea_ in a much windisg course along its shores, the eve is charmed, and one forgets the in hospitality of the land in the grandeur of the scenery. It is pleasant to look upon a goodly body of water again. The salt whiff is wantiog, but the sullen roar of the Waves against the ragged headlands of rock testifies to the might of this inland ceean. The Neptune of the Lake has his trident and the self-communings which the God of the #ea sustained bis wrath against Ulyssese, the tempest-tossed muriner of old, we fancy we hear in the murnurings of Thunder Bay. We moderns speak of a storm where the Greek with his finer imagination thought of an angry god. After the great lake comes a series of lakelets. Beautiful indeed they are in their calm serenity, and their unrvffled surface seems designed to tone off the transition between the youghness of the rocky sbore of Lake Superior and the strange wniform-

' his,

remem brauce. detester of Daniel Webster, acted as en-

EXAMINER, CHARLOTTETOWN. JANUARY 19, 1898

selling the horns of the vanished bison. Who would recognize the kith and kin of “Laughing Water” aod “Hiawatha”? Soon these, too, will g», aod history and pa ontology alone shall koow them aud their wavs, Tne buttaloes have left their trails and waliow:; the lodians their muunds and burrows. Even today we ex- amine them curiously and surmise what manner of beast and mano lay in them.

Winnipeg calls for jituie remark. It is unquestionably the finest city between Ouvawa and the Coast. Phere are many five buildings, although but few good blocks. The city covers mach ground and conse- quentiy looks stragyling. Lhe churches are biodsome siructures, avd there are a¢ Veral good college buildings. All the colleges are distinct as regards teaching, and each belongs to a religous denomina. tion, but they grant a degree in commun and jointly make up the University of Manitoba Une would like to see all the buildings on the same campus, but that which p.events us from having a univer- sity of the maritime provinces grants, indeed, to the people of Manitoba a University forthe Province, but nota united staff ora single campus. Never- theless the advantages in having a singhe university are very great. How infinitely betier itis to have one strong upiversity than half a dozen weak colleges.

From Winnipeg to Moosejaw, the land seems quite level or gently rolling, The sun sinks dgwo intothe grass at evening and rises from the grass in the morning. At twilight a lignt blue cloud hangs on the horizon to the northward like a calm sea, and the stacks of hav aud wheat just visible in the gloom beneath it look ike advaocing bulls

From Moosejaw to Calgary the prairie is quite rolling aod the view is generaliy inmited by a range of low hills. One gets decidedly tired of the prairie b. this time, aod anxiouslv scans the horizon for the foothills of the Rockier. It was eight o'clock in the morning when we reached Calgary, and from a sight elevation a few miles out got a glimpse uf the mountains with their snow capped summits and cloud robed sides flashing in the light of the morning sun. It wasasight to force The great cuttings on the north of Lake Superior bad led vsto ex- pect marvellous things of mountain rail- roading, and the dreariness of a two days irip Over the monetonous prairie made a change heartily weiccme. Itis not sur- prising, therefore, that we gazed intently toward the southwest upon t.e firs announcement that the mountuins were i sight.

A day at Calgary quickle passed. The riding coetumes of the men teen upon the streets aud the prevailing sccent pro- claimed itacentre of rauchiog and of Englishmen, This is the headquarters of those who receive remitiances.

The next morning brings us to Banff, the Government Peak in he Rockies. We are surprised to find that we are at an elevation of nearly 5000 feet, so gradual has been the ascent. The het eprings at Baoft are world famous. ‘The water in the bathing tanks is quite warm, but emelis of sulphur, and tast+s villainously. *°T wad spean a foal!” to swallow a mouth- ful uf it. The stepsdescending into the basin are slippery and many an unfor- tunate bather has blessed the management while endeavoring to extricate himeelf, and getthe fluid from hismouth. No one ever fails to be de- lighted with Banff There is mountain climbing asd mountain scenery in all stylesani abundance, and a stroil by moonlight about the well-graded, well- wooded roads and alleys,or by the baak« of the boiling Bow, which goes ov to emp y its waters into Hudlson’s Bay, alarming Calgary and other places on its way, affurdsavery pleasurable entertainment

ity of the prairies. Gazing on these won-

temp:ed them forth, and lo! as they grow !t fails acd they die. Under present train arrangements we pass throngh Maine jn night-time, and “tis an eyesore tous Oaly yn onr dreams,

We ~:ach Montreal in the morning and

hers the transcontinental line is joined. This is made up of colonist, tourist, firsts claes and sleeping cars. The first-named are for settlers who wish to reach their new homes with least expense; the gecon4 for the soononsionliy ingliped travelling clase; the third (er *%° polish and the last for th® fest. On leaving Montreal we Wiss a fine iron bridgs, skirt the north Bank of the Ottawa River, pasa through Hull,and wind intoOttawa at about midday. During the afternoon the train follows the Ottawa River and passea through a fine farming section. The land is level, the houses tidy and daintily painted, the towns well laid off, in fact the whole valley delightsthe eye by its well-to-do ap- pearance. This is the outermcet fringe of Canada’s fertility in this direction. To the north of the Ottawa and stretching to the shores of Hudeon’s Bay, thence to the region of unceasing winter lies a Paradise for the Geological Survey, a waste of uckoown wonders. At nightfall the scene though somewLat roughened owing to less euliure, is not unpleasant.

Pausing a moment let us make an observation of vur company. The officials first; aud first in order of importance among them,the porter. What in the world could we do without him? Court-

— _ —

SIs your har Sreen?

3 It’s only another way of asking, ts your hair growing? For green means growing. You can MAKE hair grow by using

\Ayer’s Stair Viger

derful plains the lines of Bryant at once cnggest themselves i

~~

These are the gardens of the desert, thee

The unshorn fields,boundless and beautiful,

For which the speech of England has no pame—

The Prairies. I behold thea for the first,

Aud my beart swells -yhilg the sight

Takes in th, encircling vastnees. Lo, they stretch

In airy undulations far away,

As if the ocean in his gentie-t ewell,

Stood still, with all his rounded billows fixed,

And motionless forever.”

From Seikirk to Calgary this remarkab'e tract of country extends. The soil is very dark and as fine as powder. After tLe rain the mud sticks to shoes and wheels in a marveilous way. The horses’ feet ball a: with snow in winter. Bicycling is impos- sible in rainy weather. A wheel would be almost doubled in diameter after very few revolutions. The land is flat or gently rolling and treeless except for some scrub timber in the river bottoms and poplar bluffs in some favoured localities. The. |. dead uniformity 18 at first startling. Jy} looke as if a mighty rol'er had passed cver } the land when the Almighty was complet¥ ing his creative work. Right down through the centre of the Continent it passed, crush - ed mountains into plains and rocks into powder and left the prairie behind it.

Man hath no part in all this glorious work;

The hand that built the firmament hath heaved

And smoothed these verdant swells and sows the'r slopes

With herbage, planted them with Island groves

And hedged them round with foreste.

For ages the prairie lay uatrodden by the fcot of white men. The Indian disa puted for the possession of it with the buffalo. Mighty battles were waged en it in the mists of the dim past. The white man came and the buffalo vanished. The Indian too 1s going. What a pitiful jsight it is to see the havoc the white. men’s diseases have wrought upon the untempered con- stitution of the Red Man. The decrepit representatives of the once proud face are found to day at the railway stations

ai . wu dleu

A sea of wilderness buta grand and sub- lume sea,a sea that washed a golden strand suddenly frozen to its loweet depths ata time when a mighty tempest raged and the billows mounted to the welkins cheek and the epray mingled with the clouds. The impetuous ovset of the fuamiog Crests was stayed and hardened into glaciers, they glisten today on the summits Of the solidified waves as they move with vesistless vet impeiveptible motion ou and over the eige of some steep clitf to fall some day into the botlows be- luw.

as we pass through the mountains the brooks by the railroad track teem with red colored mountain ralmon, as thickly pack. ed as smelts in our eastern #treams in April. They almost push each other ont of toe walter in their stampede away from the passing train. When the Fraver River is reached the salmon itself appears. The water is far from clear so that merely tne tails and fins of the fi-h are visible above it; but one can clearly see that they are presentin great abundance, Soon we reach Vancouver and admire its splendid asphalt streets and its beeutitul park. Eleven years agothe ground ow which the city sisnds was covered with bush: but “busi on tire” as Lord Kelvin said a few days ago. Toxlay twenty thousand people live on it and an immense trade is carried on.

Six hours sail on the Charmer brings us to Victoria. On sealm, clear day itis avery evjovable trip. Tne iniricate scenery Of rlunket Pass is quite interest- ing, and the whales disporting and plowing in the distance engage the attention. It was evening when we came off the harbor of V ctoria avd we had the good fortune to see the sun drop like a shield of gold behind the southermost point of Vancouver Island, into the waters of the Pacific Ocean. On the same day of the preceding week we might have seen it heave its broad shoulder over fhe edge of the world, as it issued with radiant glory from the besom of the Atlantic. Just fifty years ago, gold seckers from the east were spending months ig earnest efforts to reach the far- famed sbores of California which were then as inaccessible as the Klondike is today. Whether Cape Horn was rounded, Panama crossed, or the broad continent boldly traversed the perils were equally great. How much easier and faster do we move more than they did fifty years ago.

W.S.F.

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for au evening. From Banff to New Weatm'nster there ig au cyorechanging, cverreprated pand:aiud of mountain

ovecer®, ashe g eat heap of rocks, as_ the | position of the layers indicate, by some tremendous upheaving agency were forced | through the surface of the earth far up intothe sky. Whata fearfe', awfal com. | motion must hye reigned in this portion cf the oniineat at that time! Le Bon Dien was manifesting himseif asthe God that spake to Jo» from the whitiwind, the awful Jehovah of the Genesis. As we proceed along the rivet v&lleys the moun. tains sweep past, each one apparently higher than the one preceding. Most of them are snow-capped, and many ef them bear on their. sides mighty slow-moving glaciers, Near Mount Stephen is the Great Mivide, in one direction runs a tributary of the Bow and inthe other the Wap a,a branch of the Columbia. From the tame ridge, nay, from the same fount, come waters for the Alantic and the Pac'fic oceans.

All along the track are small sheets of water that reflect the image of the mouns~ tains, At the foot of Mount Stephen we ‘look down upon the image of its summit lying buried in the bosom of a small lake, unruffied save by a ripple like to the undulations of Cleopstra’s hair or ike swell of a sea in fancy land. Io a moment it is gone, but it is graven on the enduring tablets of memory as one of the loveliest visions of the Rockies. From the breast of the Great Glacier issues the mountaiu torrent of the Illecilliwaet, “born of snows,”as the Indian neme signfies, ana a cold icy-looking stream it is. This quaint Indian name might well be applied to many of the rivulets which come coursing, like white steeds, down the mountain sides. Fair-weather lovers are they for the most part; for when the euu sets they freeze up and run no longer. The Kickiog Horse pass has allowed us to penetrate the Rockies. The Selkirks are opened up by the Rogers’ Pass and the Eagle pass leads us through the Gold or Qoast Range to the western slopes of the mountains. The Rogers pass is probably the least adapted naturally for railroading and the tortuvus course of the track eyeaks plainly enough of the diffisulties ever-

come. These three ranges, the Reckies, Selkirk and Gold are the natural barriers between the plainland and the ceast cities.

A

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