:\

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flnuorarb’

VOL." 22.

(From the JV'uuti¢al Magazine and Naval Chronicle.)

REPORT ON CABLE ISLAND, IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. us CAPT. tr. w. IAYIIILD. u. at.

(Concluded from our last.)

Pee north-esst bar extends fourteen miles out from the Grass Ha-ld-hills to the depth of IO fiitboine. Its direction is N. E. . . j E. for ilie first seven miles, beyond which it curves gradually till it tertriiiitites to E.S.[-‘.

The dry part of nearly four miles is succeeded b eight or nine miles of breakers when there is any sea running. have consider- ed thin but as ending at the depth of from I0 to I3 futhoiiis, and often it heavy breaking sen, ten nriles further to E. S. 2., and their ends abruptly; ilie soundings increrisiirg to I10 frttlionis, in it dis- tance of three tniles further in the satire direction.

lloili bars are extremely steep, and cniirisquently dangerous of approaclt on the tiorth side; the IIt)fIll~t:l|1ll lint, especially no, having 80 frithoins of water close to it. ’|‘o the lNllIIlI\VtII'lI, on the contrary, the water |It:tlpt'ttri gradually out for so many iiiili-s, that it would seerii nliuost iinpossililo for tiny ver-sr-l. usi-i cnrrimon pr-caution, to run on shore on that slidtt, either of the is and or its bars. Yet by far the greater nuttiher of shipwrecks have taken place there, affording a std proof oftlie culpable neglect of the sounding lend. *0 coiiiiiioir iii the iuercaiitile tiiririiie. sortie o these vessels crime on sh-ire iii titre, although foggy weather, after running for rnitti

miles in slinllow writer, when one cast of the lead would have shown them their danger, and in many crises snvird both life and property.

In most cases the vessels were thought to be kt to the eastward of the island, when they ran on shore upon it; having been set to the westward by the currents. That this alleged cause is the true one there seems little reason to dotiht. for the general tendency ofthe currents, hetweoii Newfriuiirllririd nird Sable lslrrn is to the west- ward. rtltl'u)tt1lI they are greatly trio.l»fi:d by the various banks over and between whicli tlir-y flow; and are also rendered irtcontant and irregular both in rrireiigtlt rind direetioii by winds present iitid lII I disttttice. 'I' use currents tire. first, the great currents along the coast of Newfouridliiid, wlrirah is dz,-II-‘Cltetl to the westward by the Great Ilirtik, and secrinrlly, the current out of the Gulf’ of St. l.uw- rence coinpo-ieil not only ot'tlie rllrcalll of the river St. |.a\vr-.-rice, but also of the branch of the ti-Irtherti current which is so generally found entering the Gulf through the Strait of Belle-isle.

avert ready rrir-ntioned the set of the tidal sirerirne over the born; they IlMIllTBlIllulI'lt!tl'4 tiiucli iiflueiir-ed liy wiiirls. It was di licult on account of the surf to aura-rtrtiti the exact tirrie of high writer on the full and change days, httt it was seven hours lllltl rt hitlfiieorly, and the rise not exceeding foitr feet. This was on the north sirleoftlie island. I am iiicliiir-rl to think. that it is up water rtorneivlttit earlier on the south side, as has been alleged, and that portions of the flood title w.rvoi after prltlttlllg round the bars, converge iiitd meet on the iiortlt side, riiakirig liigli tvater Il|t'|‘l! per- haps :iri hour or more later; but I ritti not aware that tiny preriso or sullicieiit obsrervatioiis have eter bi-eii tirade to tisrertniti this. It is laid by the people of the isltiiid, tli:it all fl-i.ttin;.v, things which have been lost overtiorird anywhere in the vicinity of the island, are sure to be found on it sooner or later. This would lead us to suppose ll prev.iiliiig circular tiiotioii in the currents or tidal strerittis. to which the nrrangeiiir-tit of the islzititl, its bars and the middle ground to the north ofit, in their peculiar shape. tnay in whole or in part

Sable Island, seen from the north, at a distance of nine or ten miles. presents the ttpputsritltca of a long range of l'|"d'hl‘l'r Iowa of wliic are very white. From the south, the range of white sand appears more coritiiiuous, and vcr low towards the west end. On a near approach. tiiany oftlie sitiirl-hills are seen to be denuded by the waves, so as to forrii steep cliffs next to the sea. In other parts they are covered with grass iirid deft-,n ed by it brood bench, which however c.inriot be reached without passing over ridges of I=tII|l. 00- vered with rmly it few feet of water, and parallel to the shore. at distances not exceeding one third of a mile; these form lierrvy break- ers, dniigr-rouir to pass in boats when there is any sort running. The laridirig lit. in general. iiiiprncticrilile on the south side. Illccptirrg uller several d:r_\s of northerly wind. (lit the north side boatp can land only in eontlierly winds. and after sortie c-intinuririce_ril line wr-ather; lttlI there are rrurl'-hunts, at the establishiin-.rit, wlitcli can lend dry, when it coriiiiroii hoiit would ttwrittip iitittaiittly. Tliese surf-boats have been found very useful in saving people and property

from wrecks, but being tlrt-liottoiiictl, they run sortie risk of being —

bliiwn olftn sea, in the event of ii sudden and violent iricrense of wirid occurring whilst so employr . _

A lifr--hortt, the-re-fore, that could soil as well as row: '9 "'“°l' want--tl wit the pririrripiil e-riablisliziierit; tirid tIt.'t‘II|l IINl'I<|W||fii'l|lt-‘ l" its complete vtlir-ii.-iir;y. In calrti nights succoerliiig bad wt-utlier, tho ftlilf of the surf, on the lt'l‘iItI and its bars, can often be heard frorri tlistances of iriniiv llil v-s.

lllf llie north side irf llio Islttlttl. eircoptiiig near the east end where the deep water l|'b|lvt|tIl‘.ltv‘l too near the < tore, the rtiif'lN‘“'3" is good l)l‘IWt9f'tI the do-pilnr of 5 and lo fatlioms, and the distances oforre and two lItIli'rl from the shore.

The bottom is of line s.iiid tlirt holds well; but the sea is so hert- vy, excepting with otl'-shore winds. that it vessel should weigh Ill- utiintly on the first sppearnnco of ii wiinl front the sea. Great cau- tion shou be used in ttpproar-.|iing frorri the northward at night or in thick wezrihrtr. unless certain of the vessel's position, because the east end of the island and the iiortli-east bar are very steep on that side, rililiorigli the soundings afford srstficisrit warning further to the we-itmrr .

'I‘he soutliriirle oftho island may be safely approached by the leitd, excepting near the liars where it becomes shoe and sage- f°||lr with-tut a coitirriarirlirig breeze, on account of the strong and uncertain tides and currents. Vessels seldom anchor rifi' the Iotilh side because of the prevailing southerly swell, and the consequent diliculty of landing.

The Ill-tttd is slrnnst entirely comprised of white sand, reserrihlirrg very tine \lri-eov.ido uttgnr in appearance. ooarser the 0 sound- ings about it: but nevertheless, easily moved by the wind! which cause it to drift like snow, and |.;..,,, pun observed to form and to remove large snird-ltillr. in . very few years. A erv very Iuutll and rounded quarts pebbles. and also tillttn-Ifdftlfi iron sand. form- ing; them are as large stories, unless it may be a few derived front the ballast ofwrecked vessels.

" is iioeppearitnce whatever of the island being based on rock. There are an rocltv urrundiiige any where irmir it; it appears to be Iivnply the surnirrit iifihe ' Fable Island Barilt,’ IfN|“l'-"1 ll‘ its exiting ftlfll by the action ot'the winds and WOW!-

In the IIIQIIIEO of airy thing deserving the name of soil. the unrount -IIIII variety rifthe rrtlnn on this gigantic sand bar is extrao ‘ eiury. llmidrse two kinds of grass, there are wild pens, and other plants, affurdirig subsistence to 400 or .00 wild horses, and innume- luble rabbits, liesrrh-s the dornqstic cattle uftlte eutahli-him-tit.

There are strawb--rrrr-s, hlue-lterrtce, eon-berries. The latter are so ubtiiidant, and of such tins quality, that they have recently been proposed as an article of export, the prom-eds of which might be it plied to aid in the support of’ the establishment.

ere are also iiisiiy flowers itrid shrubs on the island, but no 4799'. and not even ll bush large enough to afford shelter of any -ltiriil. Fuel is supplied by drift wood. mostly the pruillee of finch!- lI"W0lI Wilt‘! on he lied alitiost every where, by dialing a few feet into the sand.

'l‘he fisheries around Sable Island are exceedirtgl viilurihle, but the drtriger of reinainir near the island, rind its fr’irniirla Is an. has hitherto restricted I nurrilier nfvrissels engaged in thorn to a few schooners. Cnddsh, haddock, and ninckerel are abundant in their ser rltlfll, tire latter in such rrstonisliiog numbers, that the sea

iirs crowdstl with thetn at titties, as far its the eye can reach

a orig the shores of the lstand. Although the surf is in general too

vy or use of the seirro, than most often be smooth trrnrnr

vrheri the ivinolrerul might be taken by it to the amount of hundreds of barrels at u .

Seals etjll frequent the island in considerable nuinliere. bit the

walrus is now seldom if overseen. are sols, it- ll. &c.. in on road. ther with most of the stratum. fburrd in the neigh- dcotiu

b0II’ltl donuts Nap‘ ‘ We it no time to collect ipselnrens, but we sbsuvvsl. esvsrsl Mytllss. fscwu, t.'sr.tiurrt, Nan. hrger iliss

Of the feathered tribe, besides great numbers of grills, divers. snd other seir-fowl, there are geese, various species 0 ducks an plover in their season. Many of these lay their eggs on the island in spring and early summer. l"ror.n'tltis brief account of the natu- ral productions of the island and surrouudin see, it will appear a frrflrdless desolate place of residence than niig it otherwise be sup-

pos . .

It is said to be very healthy. and those that liavu resided on it for years speak of it in high terms of praise :—notwitbstsnding the fact, that a single auturtirinl or winter gale has borne large portions of it into the sea more than once, and that the thundering roar of the surf , shaking the island to its centre, seeriis to threaten a re- curreitce of it similar destruction during every violent storm. These things have no terrors for them. and even the mole immediate and real danger of their occasional occupation, in saving life and pro- perty from wrecks, may have is secret charm for adventurous spirits tliut riiay mid to their preference.

The climate of Sable Island appears to be greatly influenced by its proximity to the Gulf Stream, which is distant frotn it only about severity miles to the southward. Winds from that direction almost imrrietliately dissolve the snow which had previously fallen; cous- ing, with the alternating northerly winds, a wider range and et a higher mean tetirperature than occurs on the neighbouring conti- nent during the winter irtontlis. The southerly winds coining thus from a warm to a cotiiparativcly cold see, are compelled to part with a portion of their moisture, and hence are almost always accom- panied with ti dense fog.

’l'hsso winds greatly prevail during the summer months, the south-west espe-.r.i:rll_\ . arid the sitiid ofthe islatid thuri copiously charg- ed with tnoisturi-, and heated at the same time y it powerful sun, is enabled to support an amount and variety of vegetation, not usually found in such situations.

The barometer seldotti or never rises with these winds, and when it falls with thorn rapidly and extensively, rain and wind, and ifit be after the middle of August, a heavy gale iitsy be expected.

" I it mm between tho north and east prevail tiiosttlurina spring and early surrinier. 'l‘hey are sonietitiies, and res ccially wlit-ii tie it near tlrr: north, accoitipaiiirrd by the line weather that usually at- tends the rising lnirritneter; but at other times, and almost always in uutiirnn and whiter, the easterly winds bring bad weather ac- coiiipttiiied liy it fitllitig bnroitieler.

Some ofthe heaviest gnles in these seas, have been from this quarter, srid they are usually followed, almost itiiniediately after the barotiieter has reached its lowest point of depression, by an equally strong gale from between the north and west, and which is ulivays iiccoiitpanied by clear wcatliue and u rising barometer.

iaslerly as well its southerly winds are foggy. 'l‘lie latter be- come lees redoriiinsiti as the summer advances, when westerly winds utid cleiir weather become proportionately of loss rate occur-

9

enc .

,It is the fogs, even more than the irregular tides and currents, that reirdrir this island so daiigcrrius: they frequently lust many tllI_\tl and night in rtuwessioii with the prevalent easterly and south- erly winds of early rruniriier; and even as late as the beginning of August, when we were about the iultnd, only six days out of iiiiieio-.ert were entirely free from fogs. Winds between the north and west are, in general. frr.-queiit in autumn and winter. 'l'hcy alrno-tnlways bring fnie clear weather, witha rieii-.; barotiieter; but they are often ofgreut strength and in winter are iiccoriipanied with intense frost.

’l he position of the island. directly in the track of the violent, and said to lie circular. storms, that so frequently pass along the Atiierican coast from the Gulfof I-Icxico, would give to at iiir-re-iru logical rr-gt-tar, if fniilit'u|ly lzept, a far more tliaji ordinary interest; and would also he of ts.-ieeutiirl service in warning the people of the Island when eri.plo_\ed about wrecks, as well aethe vessels incont- tiiunicrttiou with thrust. of the a curb of danger. A nod barometer or trneroid, and a liermometer, should be suppli' to this estu- lrlishrrreiit, and a meteorological journal shoitldbe kept by the eu- peritrtetidctit.

The establishment on Sable Island is at present under the coni- nisrid of .\Ir. hlelieiinu, the superiirteiident; who liss under him I foreman or surouil in cotiitiiand, Mr. Jaclsson, tttid nine men; two of whom, with their families, occupy outports at the middle and east flag-staffs ‘

'I'lre principitl establislirnent, consisting of u cortafortiihle house l'or the supt-riiiieirdent and is atiiily, buildings for the men, sn.l the oer-arriorrul rrccoriirriodstion of shipwrecked persons, for stor- ing provisitiini, and pr ty saved from wrecks, a forge, ivoiltshop, barn and staliliag furdottiuuttc cattle, &r~.., is situated on the norili- side of the island. between the pond and the sand-liil.‘.s, on one of vihich stands the llagstufli 'I'lie distance of tlie priricipril flag- staff from the west extreme of the Grassy Sand-liille at the time of our survey, was Lilo futlhurs. and I state it here for reference ltercnftr-r, whunewr ittusy he wished to iircertaiii th‘ waste of the island in any given number ofyuurs. This .1 i,-_v-staffis strongly and sulir-tantiislly constructed on I ue ll forty feet high; and the crow‘:-risst, or look-out at it vuntil' is I00 feet above the sea; conirrianrlitig a litre view for riiaiiy miles along the islanrl, and oier the :ttsrI’tr|lIltIItt ocenii. It is in corrtrsmpliitioir by the colon to show it light frotii this fling-staff, for the benefit eiipeeiall_-I elythe I olrininl I-overntrient vessel that visits the island periodically with supplies; and the scltooiiers ertiploye in the rtemovnl of portions and property saved from wrecks; in the exportation ofwild lsorses, and III the inackcrr-l rind other fislierics around the island.

' ‘ ie ea-it llig-strilfcririspiruriusly plzic on a sand-hill close to the north shore of the island, is distant 2380 fotbetns froin the east extrrerne of the Grassy Hand-bil-s. lts lposition, it’ retained, will serve to indie-rte airy change, that may hereafter take place, either by iidditiori or r-uhtraction, from this end ufthti island.

'I'lie middle flag-stull'is situated further inland, and nearer the east end of the pond. t is intended til remove this outpost to a more advantageous position on the aotith side of the island, where there is it house. about half-wiry along the pond. and nlicre it will be better situated to observe and reports wrecks, as well its to render prompt ussistaricu.

'l‘l-e want of it post on the south side has been feltat times. when the pond has been rerirleretl itnpttesnble liy unsafe ice, and vvlieti tiiitrry hours were uiirtvoidalilyloet, in going round the pond. before assistance could be given to vessels that had come on shore.

Ilesiiles the houses at the three flag-staffs there is an unoccupied house of refuge on the north aide, which was distant, in August last, 320 fatlioirrs frrnii the west extreme oftlie Grassy Sand-hills.

No wreck can trike place on the island at a greater distance than six miles from some one of the posts; and in the event of one oc- curring, the outpost reports by signal to the superintendent at the print-.ipal establishment.

Wrrrclte on the bars are of course far more dangerous to life than those tlitrt take place on the island; and it is important in such cases to know on which but the vessel is, and the consequent direction in which to seek for safety on the isls This information, when the island is obscured by fog, or the darkness of night, must be sought by observing the dirr.-ctioii of tbe‘line of ‘breakers. which, on

‘ .. riii . tn.'&g., until near is . IV. Q N.

the north-east bar is between N. In. b its outer extremity; whist on tlte north-west bar it

"The setrtbliehtiieiit is supported by an annual grant from the le- gi..|..ruroof' Nova Scotiu. to whit‘. the ruperisl Government addr- rlll or ual sum; also by a salvage upon the sale of wrecked new and t sir cargoes; and by the occasional sale of wild horses. 'I‘he nurnber of these aiiiriirtls, at present on the island. is estimated at shout 400, divided into several gases, each tinder the leadership and oontroul ofa powerful mule, who adtnite of no interference with

ll. -

It is fife opinion of the distinguished Colonil Secretary of N u ~‘cotis, the l on. J b llowc, that much may be done to render the esmblishiiicnt in a greater degree self-ettpportiag, by improving the breed of wild horses, by u driiry—fsmi, including the roaring ofcrritls to a limited extent, by prosecuting the uiuclterel flsbsry in its srrrison. by sciitos or lines as opportunity ofered. and by the stile of crurihevriee, which are said to be in great demand to lie United States.

Ir connexion with the edablhhryient. it may not be out ufpluee to port put one irriportantwaut, which eeertts to have been ithert_o only iinprrfer-tly supplied. Iellude teesms pevtelou for_tbs reli- gioue and intellectual instruction of those. having_ been cast on ashore at the eotnnieueeuut ‘wider, lay be uuaverdsbly detained through several sftbemesny nsetbseftlis year. be- fsre they see be reweved fret tbs

Being without suflcierit occupation to fill up their tirrie, the op- tunity would be favourable for acquiring information. and the cat tneaus of conveying it, uunder the circumstances, would be to furnish the establishment with it library, selected with the view of combining trrtiusenrent with instruction; and especially with the hope of leading the tllottghtlouu, but often enerous-hearted seaniun to recognise his obligation to that infinitely rest Bein who having ruceatl saved him frotn an unprepared- for tam a death, mercifully invites ltim to be saved from death eternal ! The regular assembling of the people of the establish- ment and their families, to other with any others that may on the island, for pipilic worship on Sundays, will also greatly tend to the same desirable end, and it appears to be a paramount duty under the circumstances. ‘

Icaunot better close this account of Sable Island, than by die- chrirging the pleasing duty of bearing testimony to the order and efficient cotidition of the crttablisbrnerit under the command of Mr. McKenns,ibeiatrrlligsnisuperintendent, from whom we received eyery information, sssistnriceutnd kind attention which it witsiii his power to render us, during our visit to the island, for the pur- polfl of surveying it, utid verifying its position last summer.

ftlistcllancaus.

DISCOVERIIJS IN AFRICA.

A large portion of the vast peninsula of Africa is an unknown region. Notwithstanding the repeated elforts of such travellers se Bruce, I';itlt, Denhatn, Clappertou, Ledyrird and Lander, the iti- terior of the country liris been in a great riieusurs u sealed book to the European discoverer. A glance at the latest rnsp yet publish-

ed of the country designated as Ethiopia, extending from the Moth 5

tains of the .\loan to the tropic of Capricorn, will present to the eye urn llllllluil df.‘lI(I'b'llttll(; and wlliiit_ev$- js itIDOtI;lItI is rnudehu-p more rota i re unccr :iiri .-iccountsoitriirir. tom t e natives, i an fromeriy oell-uutlzeriticcted and reliable sources. Marty iiiipor- tunt discoveries lion-ever have very recently been raids in that bortighteil portirin of the globe. and preparrititins are on foot to push discovery throtighuiit the continent, both of North and South, the

results of which will be of vast importance to the researches of pby- ‘

sical science. A late Ziiglish paper sit ii :—

“ A iiinp of that coutitry is about to be published, corn rising the whole region from the equator to 19° of south latitttde. In this the recent discoveries will be l:ii down. we I it see Mr. Galtori‘s route of 1600 miles, from \l/allish Bay to Odoriga, near a large river nrtiiiod the Nourso, and to the country of the Ovumpo. des- cribed as an intelligent tribe of natives. We shall lirtd, also, that the snoiv-peaked niouiitaizis seen by the German iiiissionnrics, and cirlt-idcrcd to be the source of the \‘r'liite Nile, are not more than about 3-00 miles distant from the eastern coast; and it is said that no more promising enterprise could be undertaken than an attempt to ascend rind explore tlierii, starting fr.iin .\lombair. Barth, and Overweg were at the eastern end of Luke Tchud when last lieerd front; and we are told. that the ulnve-trttdurl, finding their occu- patioii decreasing on t e western coast, have lately, for the first time, peiietruted to tltrrinterior. and tempted many of the natives to sell their children for showy European goods. Lieutenant Mac- Ieod, of the Royal Navy, proposes to ascend the Niger in a steam- lituricli, and when up the coutitry, to cross over to,and descend the Gainliia, with it view to discover new sources of trudeg and Mr. Mscgregor Laird is still ready to carry a vessel up uuy river efthe western coast to which government may please to send him. Be- sirles the travellers nzcntiotted, there are others pushing their way in different parts of the south; and the French are not idls is the nortli—tliey have added to our information concerning Aby-iula, and the countries bordering on the Great Desert. But in addition to African geol , a vast portion of tlis interior is supposed to have been an in and sea, of which Ngami and other lakes are the remains; fossil bones of most peculiar character have been found, but uuly. of terrestiiil and fresh water aairnitls. A name is alrea- dy given to a creature of a remote secondur period; I’rol’essor Owen, from the examination of a few relics, pronounces it to be a !.l.'c5'rtorlori. According to Sir It. Riiichison, sucli have been the iniiin features of Africa during countless ages; ‘for the old roclts which forru her outer fringe, uiiquestioniibly circled round an interior intirslry or lucustrine country, in which the dicynodon tlourislted at at time when not a single rtnirnal was tiiiiiilar to any living thing which now inhabits the surface of our globe, The present central and iitcridirin xotie writers, whether litltt.-s, rivcs or marshes, extetiding from Lake Tcliad to Lake Ngurrii, on their banks. are, therefore, but the great motlerri, residual, geographical phenomena of those of at mesozoic age.’ "