H *D “. ggi

-A 88'.. ,mn D’ ALL" THE CHARLOTTETOWN GUARDIAN lomnuo lmar

awe fa Go lo the Devil to See the ,

0P¢f4f10fi.'* Which Is Not is Torlurmg but an i

fo'

Instructrve Er erzence as is e ~ '

P . Quite Effectrvefy Shown t~,\}\i»» ol J 1

slit., u “-"j1f"“..*~

-. .V-4

-~.,.,.....-

mass. than leaving the upper part, which is to he the tip ot the BIC. IIC# tilt!! the lower part, which is to be the brim. Qlilt skill is required to adjust the air dx-att in the machine no as to mek; ju" on fiiiht distribution of fur.

But thu newly termed body is now thrice me ini-gg

for a hat and thrice 000 loose. It must be shrunk and Uzhtened 'I dont think the lady will can to see the shrinking" laid the guide. ‘The process “KGB illace in I. big wash house, vary damp and tuli ot hot air. it might spoil her hat.

G0 Weld." shi YBIDDMGG- “T|1ere's s wet wea h

el* guarantee with this hat, and I’ve had a large ex- D race with hot sir",

BY the "devil' the fur is picked by the blowing

machine it is cleaned thoroughly and made ready to be formed into felt. Zlfho blowing machine is a box- llke contrivance thirty feet long, divided into six Sections, more or less, with windows through which one can look, A Workman feeds the fur upon il HIOWIY turning apron, from which it is passed be- tween a pair ot rollers. In front of the rollers-we are “DW Betting the oiflclal description-is n. swiftly revolving picker that teases and loosens the fur, the Ilglllcr libres failing upon an apron that carries them to the next section, while the heavier sub- stances, the hair, pclt and dirt, fall through a space between the apron and picker. Thus treated in each section and constantly becoming cleaner, the fur at last leaves the blowing machine ready to be foiled.

For the initial stage of felrlng they use a large

apparatus, requiring considerable driving power. it consists of the following parts ranged in the order named:-A wide ollcloth apron, pair of rec-ii rolls, picker, metallic drum with small blades running longitudinally across its surface, an open turn table and an exhaust tan. It is called the forming machine. It works on this wise. - ~

'» - ff ,,-'.»..u`~ QL)

iColn'rl;:ili. liJl0, by the New York lleraid Cn. `A|l rimhis reserved.) _

- New York, Saturday.-

ITIJA A.\'GEl.lC.-\ went with me that windy March day. She decided suddenly. It was all on account ot’ it remark I made at breakfast- une oi' those remarks that just slip out and

~ ‘ iwcil n lot of v.\'plninlng afterward;

"You 1-nn go to illc devil, Ii’ you like,” said I, "und

l'd be glud to have you." _ *

.\'s-\-or shall I i‘orget thc look she gave me. She

has gray eyes, has ,luiia Angelica, with the slant of the lids that one notices in the orbs ot s tigress when cilnilengcll and abruptly attentive.

Aa m~arly as I can recollect sho had come upon an

a<l\-artisetncnt of n spring hat, some sort of Paris iomtuntion; had murmured something about having oecn-n good wltc, saved my tnont‘.Y» sewed on my buttons and bosscd thc cook amicabiy, and had asked me if she tlld not desc:-vc some reward. Conversa- tions oi' this kind I always try to avoid. No matter where they begin. they have only one end, and every married man knows what thntlis, ,So I replied cau-

such devotion, and imngincd I had sidetracked the subject with more than my usual skill. But I was mistaken. '

"Very well. then." she rejoined, with u rich under-

tone of cxuiiaiion, her manner suggesting ln u, strange, simile way the pose oi' an animal about to leap. "You may reward mc now, and I’ll make ii: easy for you. I want-I‘li tell you what I want-I want: you to buy me one hundred spring hats.”

It was the audacity ot the demand, the mingled

amazement and terror born* of the suspicion that she had been attacked by hatltis, the need of checle ing her instantly in ber downward career, that prompted my remark about 'her going to the devil and my being glad if sho would go.

“Explain yourself, sir," she cried, tiamlng up while

I froze.. “This is the iirst time such an expression ever was dung at mc." .

Abd then I told her, in ns many words, that the

devil I had in mind was it machine used in the manufacture of a derby hut, and that if she would 'go with me to ri factory lu Brooklyn I should be happy to have her :ee it in operation.

That was n lucky diversion for me. In ten mln-

utcs we started. I noticed she had donned. her latest piece of headgear. :\ malines toque. “Of course I couldn’t think of going to u swell hal: place without u decent chapeau," quoth she. “'l`hese people are so critical, and, though I nm going with you to the

devil, tI>‘=';e’s no reason why both of us should look nits lt." v

In the subway train that took us to Brooklyn Bridge

station, elle tell to studying n\eu‘s hats-<derby, alpine or tourist and silk, and the vm-tous shapes, too numer- ous to mention, and the way the men wore tb0n1-tlit- ed, cocked, jammed and otherwise, During the stop ntl Fourteenth street sae became philosophical. and in

this veln:-

"A innn’s hat and its uses, sentimental and sacra-

mental. Toss it into the air, and the mob says you’re happy. Thnt‘s the comedy of the hat. Raise it to a wolnnn, and she thinks you'rc polite. That‘s the farce. Pass it around for a friend, and you do an act of charity. 'l‘hnt‘s the melodrama. Go with it in your hand outslretclicd, and everybody knows you are nt the end of your rope. '.i‘hat’s the tragedy, yes, , the rt-ul tragedy of the dcvby.", .

with t|,ig,_of Lou;-se_ i agreed. but reminded her that

our itnlnedintl- purpose was to (ind out what the derby was made of and how the materials were \vorketl into the correct shnpe.- Soon we reached the

tsetory. in Nostrand avenue. near Flushing avenue.

Though very spacious, it ie- not the largest In the

trade; but it is unique in one particular. Probably it is the only place at whir-it high grade hats are ninth- where the entire process of assembling the ma-‘ ici-iuls~ is carried on under one set ot roofs. so t_o spouit. ,I~‘rnm A io the Dunlap derby is made right titers. and almost wholly of animal matter, the only vegetable material used being the cotton back of the g|||.|l) linlllf. < ‘

.-‘ ‘ ' Socrates and Lincoln.

battered into the oiiice ot Mr. Charles E. Keator, nulniiger ofthe works. we n\vaited his "arrival in ll. pimtsiint room' with the atmosphere ot a Fifth avenue but stormjnius a pretty girliandjn vase of iiowers. As the glance of .iuiln Angelica tlltted froin person to ~pera\»n.~ from thing tu thing. she‘made a running

comment. its \von'icn will. -' ' ' ~

‘fiaook at. this!" sits exclaimed.: "How odd. Bee

here a reprint letter ati Abraham Lincoln and an

.' ,V _i,

~ u

1.1 )` ,¢»‘» o, ,» ' ?\T¥‘°"}zt' it f\’ i

“'01” U10 fvrlnlnz machine the bodies are bronfhf

to they battery, and there each Workman isles. sly three at a time. spreads them on his plank. cprinilk them with hot water, using a sort at scrubbing bmah rar this and tuning patted don the dim-null vurrrfroids them ta u new and rolls them carefully '.i'ben they are unrolie-d, unfolded opened out. exam ined again ter imperfections, such ul (onlin mutter of any sort and particularly streaks on the errant! These streaks, known technically as 'lightning rods. ure the chief bane of tin- manufacturer in this branch of the business. according to Air Keutor The idui ‘sizing machine’ is out. that would shrink I D06] without folding it

.in spite or all the cleansing and blowing mo e or

less hair rcmuins lntermingieii with the fur. Rivlim the hat body, now sluunltcn pt-rhnps ilfty per cent, it coarse appemunle 'fo get rid of it the body when diy is gh eu to a uoikmali called n 'shaver' who Luis oi! \\lih a rn/ollllw Lillie tile hulrs that stick ont and pulls out the othcts. As shining leaves the felt more porous than it was, the body is sent back to the buttery, or plank llonse. for n second shrinking, this time in much hotter wait-r. Sizing is a very hot operation, and the \vorl;nn|n protects his palms with wood or lcutiicr slili-ids.

Nt-xt comes the stiiloulng. All moisture having

been rl-linivwi i’rom the bmly, the luttel’ is treilied with n solution oi’ .siwlinc <il.»~siilw-4,! in niqoiwi, called “wine stiti'i.-ning," very s-xpt-n.~‘l\'c mul only used for the high grade dt-rb_\'. 'i`nl;lu;__' n Lvruril, about 315 int-iles, a \vork|nun rubs tin- bully with the solu- tion. so that the slicllae may inf-rust ull the iilrrvs. rolling thc lnnly mi :\ lnnrlilc- sinh its lu seoutiri sitlllli. .Win-u illc alcohol has 1-\‘:lpo\':\li-il and the ta-il. is`dry ille lnnly is llc.si<~<l \\llI\ oilu-ls'~-in plies oi' at do7.i~|i sbt upon pins in at box; the ilox is ciosi-ii_ live stenin is lol ln, lilo sin-llnc l~: |l~p\l|l<-it nun in-nwll |n\\':\r\i from tin- surl'ncl-_ :\|'i<-r \\l\l~-it tin- holly is dlppe-tl in it sollltlim oi' born,\' or .soiifi nmi limilly in tcplli water. where it llcs till ulltnll llwwes are gime. 'i`l|\- sllilutllilg docs noi' rcllilvr tin- |»oll_v \\'nl\~l'|nn»i. but unless t'on~ tliiclvd \\'llll 1;l'c:\t cure \\li| lui-:tn :l in_\:l\}' loss i0 i& iunnufncturer.

\\'|»rl<mcn now (ako thc lnnlit-~', plnllgi- lin-in at I

lictbrl- the ilyo can he npplivll lln» hat lnu.~'l be left

for :lu hour in :I solution of, .~;n_\‘_ lll<°llt'¢»lm\l\~ oi' poinsli nm] l;\rl:\r, 'l`lli.~' is milieu] "|nor|i:tl|ii|1;:" null lirevviill tho 1-olorlnc multi-r from “1.'oiul: \\'llil" in the init. Various |\t<\1'<i:ln:s \\'lll| lin- saline ci_\'<» sillil’ _vlvltl rx vnrlcty of ~~t,lor,<. _\ good black <-ru be mania- \\'lll| li\;;\voo<l null :\ silmll elllnlllily ot’ mzllltirr. 'i`liv lighter lilo i`<-ll ilin in-ltor ilu- <|yolu_f:.

(luv elvrby is :\lni<»,<t vompll-io, but not quite .-\

w¢,\rku\:|n inkcs ll lo n all-nn|iu;; table. \\'i|crc are iron pot.; throu/Zi: xvifvh |»;l<.-»~_~ live ,<ii~.-im. lla- stvllllls the hat. hulls lt over n lllowl: so :ts-in ,Jvc lim 1-rmvn the iiuni Silatpc, :\p|.~iv.~' at l~i»:.t ot' sl\:llI:ll~ llis1<ul\'i°\l In nn niknli to the insiili- lu sll'v\lgli1<\l\ \\'l~;tl; |»l:|»~\-s, ilrivs ll, pulls ii' again over the blot-l; null |:-oils' mtl \\'rinlti\~s. The r;t'r|W1i :mil l,ri'ln| arf' rnillnfli wllil illlv su..Jpn[\|-r- "po\|uclu|_')" they will lt. :ml tin- |»wn-ons is ||n-<'lmn- lvzil--.=lu;:i~im_' luncliiul-s rl-m<»\|~ tin- long nap null a ililic i\iln'lr-_;t|\l t-\‘<-its up tile color and leaves tile whole :ls smooth as tiegsltiu.

,.. \ J

extract from one of the dialogues of Socrates. What

tzmg the Hat

in the name of all tllat’s strange do you suppose they

__tlous}y,_,_t_|;at no reward .could be large .eno,\x£h__,f_or____a_“__4i0mg in a but mem_ry?,, ,,,,,

Sure enough, on thc well near Mr. I\eato\"s desi and so hung that cvcry one who came or went must see both, were the tokens of-the great American emuncipntor and the great; Greek he intensely all mired and profoundly studied

"Search me,” was my answer. "I lm\'cn't the least

notion why." But»she mused an instant; thou softh thus:-"Don't you remember those |‘:tintln;_fs oi' l.in coin in which he wears nn cnol-moss ‘stove plpe".’ No doubt it was one of thc early Dunlnpsj'

"Very likely,” said I helplessly. “lint Socr:\tt~s. l"ic

died in Athens 2,300 years ago, by his own lmmi :uni :I cup of hemlock poison; he was the tlnvst tnlltvt- of his day, but the Athcnians condcnincil him for iutrodut-in; new gods. Whut‘s Socrates to l>unl:tp'.*‘

“My dear boy”-that is the way sh" lnlllrl-.~'<cs me

when contrasting my years with my li-n»>|~.un-<»--"it is perfectly simple. The Atlleuiails had llia-o\'l~1'etl that _he was talking tllrough his hat

Before She could cunvlucc me on this print ill

Keutor came in ' n mon of direct nn,»tln»¢l-_ if-two -f,'»cl-l-li candid manners, who Ixus lcclurctl on lla: m.|l<in;: I tore learned institutions, llc woulll put u< in 1-lmrtze of an expert and show us the pl-oc<~s.~: ot' lmmng out il derby' but before starting as over :iw w<»|l<.< in- mighi: as Well m`entlon that all the fur 'ls-l-il in mztltlnil

felt was received there already rl-un»\'l\<l tr-»n~. lin- skin ` Forming Machine

by the batters’ fur cutters

"Furl" ejaeulated Julia Angl-llt_~n. " »\\f.‘hl

was made of wool.

“There is rl wool felt," was thc |'o~:;>nu~.-<-, “but our

felt consists exclusively ol' the ln-st |1u:l|llil~.- .lf l>cnv»~r.

nutriil. coney and Russian hare. ’l`ln-.-i- nw mixvli by

“N0, mudnme. Our best llull'l:l is `Ii~‘f:li1Hl l"‘||.Y-`

us ln special propot'tlons~a trade .-ut-rt-l, lfrom limi son Bay we get a ilne kind of coney-a small rabbit, you know."

“Is there a Coney island up thcrc, tou':" sin- a.<l:t-ri, It costs about $12 a. pound in the bag. \\'c use in til-al of Russian hare." '

“Wouid you be able to use the fur of tin- nnni .\lnrt~h

hare?" asked Julia Angelica.

But here also the thread of her lhou_'~"\\i “`='»~' |ll"‘i<f‘f\-

Mr, Keutor‘s assistant camo np. :Hui H11' ~'|i"\il l\\\"‘l\'-'ll the works bcgnn. En route for "thc -*intl \\'?"’f"’ ill” thing really starts" our guide It-ll ns znronlrli a lu|':~*<~. high room ,on whose shelves \vo|'\- lmmli-oils of ihllillf bags 01' various sizes tllied with fur. i"\'o|n one he took n handful ot soft. tlukv muff.

“Beaver’s belly," he explaun-tl. “Put this or aa.\‘

of these furs under a tnicl'ost-ope and .Wil \\“‘\_‘|‘l “"` that every tlbre ls covered with iiny <l~ulc», .\ow. ll’ you mix* theriibres they will mat; if _von wot them when matted und roll them and pound them to~_"otln-x' they will knit more closely. silriukluir :Iii liar wlnic; and if you keep at it long enough tin-y_ \vlll at-l into mah a tnnglu by twisting and intcrt\\‘t.~'\Ilu§~ all UH? time shrinking, that _von will have ilnolly rl Slllili fabric. It will be i‘ur felt. To make lux- mat beilcr It is dipped into it mercurial solution ln‘t’ore we get it. The process is called cnrrotlng."

“Often beard of carroti' hair, but ncvor of can-\'ot_v

mr." me whispered. rsnu. n _ll cars 1" Hr' '"’"'l- doesn’t it?"

"Cart-oted, not carroty," I rctortvd: and Kill’ Slim”

ignored the impertiuence, .

_ The Devil at Last.

“When the fur reaches us." lic 00"*|"“""- "il I*-"-"

been cleaned in part, but there is nlw:\i‘>\ "\'"'*‘ <"' 'l`-"*

dirt, lang hair and blood clot, and this we nm-(2 ro- move. To do so we send the fur to the devil."

‘_ .r~"\ . 3; ~

_ 7iév,f,|~ tw

_ ~F~

lulll sugtllta looltd at inc steadily I hid made

gout!

As ho spoke llc llung wide lllc door of nnothci

"\'c.~‘. yes, I sec," she muttered, "the weird man

with llio pltcl\t'orl<."

"i\`o." rcspoudctl thc palivut expert. “IIe's tending

tin- lint-il~!ln» machine behind him. lic uses the i|ll<'|\iork tn fcntl wllll."

Here, litvn. we saw the first stop lu making n derby

hat. 'l`ln- mat-lllnc looked lli:\liollt'nl_ for it scenn-il to have 1| montll and eyes, 'l‘llluk ot’ a cone sllnped box four fro! high ntnl oi’ the s:m|c~ llistalll-c nclwiss the wlllv cud. all lined with large lcctii. \\'llhin it \vork.~\ u colin covc\'i~d with tcelll and revolving at u tre- inclldulis pure.

in front isa \vork|nan armed with n pitchfork, who

kr-cps turning over and over a lot ot’ llnrc and rabbit |`ur in lt metal box and from time to time tossing some into lin- mouth oi' the devil, At ihc lnrgcr cud of the cone :irc fan hlailcs that cause it dr:\i’t ot' air to now iu\vnrtl through the iecll hole and so on through a pipe into n receptacle for the ful' placed hack of the mnclzlnc. The teeth separate the libres, inicruliugie the mixture and prepare it by this picking for the cleaning process which comes next.

Checking the revolutions oi' the turntable, a

worknntn lifts oit the cone as soon as the latter has collected the fur for one hat. Wrapping cone and fur in wet cloths, he plunges all into very hot water, where he leaves them a minute. Unwrappiug the cloths. he removes from the cone a loose. cone shaped mass. about thirty by thirty~tive inches, and tunnis it to n workmen, called n hardencr, who wraps it in a not cloth and rolls this gently but iirmiy on ,| bencli. This rolling increases the compucrucss or lin- n1:|,~s, which is to be nt last the body of the [mtg

\\‘hlls~ thc dry fur is rushing ~tltrough the forming

umcliim- to settle on the cutie the law of gravitation wists the heavier libres toward the bottom of the

--_-\-~~--.---___.... ,,__ _ ,_ A

Silk Mill_Where Bsnd<\Arc Woven

.',-

Pmmlg Fur Into ,Blower I

Apron and reed rolls revolve slowly; the picker,

drum and fan rapidly. Upon the turn table is placed a perforated copper cone. Into the current of air created by the fan is thrown from the drum two and one-lznlt ounces of fur, the quantity for one derby. The drum has taken it from the picker, the picker from the feed rolls and the feed rolls from the apron. Tho right quantity ot fur is ganged by an automatic weighing apps;-gms,

The Hat. 'cf

Shrinking the body is called "sizing," and 1|; take,

Dlace in n bi`g eight-sided tub, callld A “buttery." Eight planks are arranged around tin! tub, one for cach workman. On each plank is a cloth, usually of

burlap. Th t bi till d in mndeused steemlli. s e wt water kept hot by

\ l

Softening the edge with a hot iron, another work-

man gives the brim the l`:\slrion.'|ble .shape and then places the but on :l iiollmv iron table, cnllvll u "baker," tl1rnu;gh which steam passes. The brim softened, the hat is taken to 1| bunch wltsrc with the aid ot a board re_-t-milling :t brim. called a °'-ctl»oa|1‘l."

the curl nnlst in vogue is obtained

In n brlzrht. airy room n<-ar b_v girls sow on the

binding nlnl Iumll-bot|| mndc in the fm-tor_v~\\~hir ‘fo the “sweater” oi' goat or .llnssln lenilicr null stick ;;

thc lining with rubber ccmcnt.

“Wlmt irocomcs of all that sluii"--fur. leather and

the rest-tlnit you reject? is it wasted?" asked

Julia Aiigeiira.

“lt is soirl to nmnut`:tr'turcr.= of second class hats." ' As wc |'cacll<si thc struct sho looked at any ||nu,].

gcar. “\\'hnt prlcc uns the llc-t°l»_v`l" I told hal-_

“l thought as much." mused Julia Angelica. "And

it's a dead one."

~ f fc f

gist-llrdey tuna. , req; img,

' omlntiofrjrrrowu uname . nggs, pe- asa. 11 eau ouailum

u . _ mmm , ao to SBIBN 0°) r' 1° *°

Oerrlmd Ra' uvvrrwsdnuqar and Gmane (no 11 to 14 nest (quarter) , 'e to

60 to I0 Fresh I-Ibrrinl (DOI-)

» _u rwnlm' as to 405 .1>smau, .pu al to as onaaea om

t _multi ~ ~ - to-can mmm, per an , , is rpms- can -

Em". Kwgitvni '

~ ' ~u\_o¢u\»m nn.;

, |5.50‘f.o"6l50 P||\¢",l -tv _ \

Cornell .Gdddsh (ib.)

ti.

ilettuce (bunch)

13 16 Radial: (bunch)

l__

SUMMERSIDBI MARKETS

11 Z0

5 _ 18 Oorrtcfal lor every Wohudey and

Bc. | Bntnrdllt but. . g,~.`

sprin¢I¢*'i><°1f~> 51-25 *° $1-60.511' utfowi ' u ins fruexews Marguerite, E1 Pr t- n oo. ` ‘

g l Rhubarb ini) g° '!.\Duck| 16 denrte and Van Horn. At Bc you :au Kztxi Strtleszrnn "g

` , V _ , , _ _zz

2° Potatoes 2o`0ats (white) 40 find few cigars to equal 'I‘uokett's

c EMT 9; to 113 gzfézéblnek) 42 to gonsnet, Peg T91, and st°n_°"“

Ol 5 to 7 ,,, _ V ac son. We keep those and other Drums me ‘ u w xo n Q" ‘L good ones at our mn and emu

Oilidksl I7 ° them to you in lust els” wa' _

l'l`“r\=~vl rv I2 ° keen mem . is pu-use feupgadia

to 15 ::At10c. there are iew cigars better patent bumidors 'fha `

.'.\ff ‘ -