*M0353 4°-1913- - -. . .f=1rssonAR1.o'r'rETowN GUARDIAN ' ' 1'_'PliGEfl¢R’_‘ ‘

r 1 , _ , _ -._:, __,,i,Y_”.._K._7,..,.-_..__2_._,;_ ___ ____

__ _ _ __ _ _ _ _. ._.__,,».___ -

\ _

_ .. - » i -:s_',,.1_f.'»._¥.i"’_lii__.

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’+ ~- ff" ____-fn. _._~r - . < »

'~ -1

. 1

_ __ '_ - _,_-__ , #_ _,gf _ :__

.~<@#g_ ~“_ ~ ‘__ __,» __ _ _ _

‘*=° ' » - ' _ '_ 1..-1-~< l f _ __ - ~ - ' = ff' “--

0 T G ARDIIAN T““i."::.i;.i;“’.“.';$i;£?.2"i~........

' --'l\\\l'1"‘-`~`-"""""`-`~'-'- '__'}`-if-=`-`-`-`-'-'==¢==--:-f:::_-_-f_-_-_-_-_._._._._._._________;f__ ___ _______________ ____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ __ ` __ ,__ ____ 9 O _ _

_ ._ = . _ \ _ __ _ ' ' ' ' ' "_' """"" ' ' 1'"-__""" 'i _-"""-*Z-=`C"-'~f-`-'-‘f-'fr'-~'~`-`-'-""' ` "`-‘-‘-‘-'-‘- ~`-‘-"ff-'-1'-‘-'-'-`~‘-‘=-'-'-'~'~‘-'-‘-‘ff-‘Y'"-‘-`-‘-‘-‘-'-rw-'f-'~'-'~-=-'~ =---‘--s -'-‘f-‘-'-'-‘ff-‘ ‘Yr '~'-'f-'-'~'-‘-'~‘-'f' ' ' ' ‘ 'ff-‘--‘-‘ -‘-‘ f- » - ~'-'-'f-'-'- ~ '-1 ~'-'~'-'~'-'-'f-‘f- - ff-1*!->-f. :-1-':.‘:.'::::.':.;~.~.-.-_-.~_-; - . __ lllF?lFE?EFllElFi===p##li=ssl=-~

A TORONTO. Oct. 1_3.-Th! BV“.'l'il Ol Trade itlintations for Ylllfctdsy were

l t sl n- re ers " A” ‘|°“l?'$&tl` t l sto F “'" ° ° Net lnoludl rss). “.m"°'”‘

No 1 northern. ll

1 -§of I _ o. I nor ern 11 . ..._He...s__w l lb- ~:.'::f~:f.:i.5??§."‘l’:f~~» l~~»-»-

HO.. I 0.W., 'I c. _

Extra No l lliio.

.1-.-

'N:` I ‘ rlci 41 x 'r

|l\lI‘ l’\ I, FIC ,

mo. s nude." lm..-dl-iod', nzzggf »..‘ z.°:'.:~'-.~.“:~°-:.°“- r-I-=,.._

e . cos

Frelshie épullisl. ~

I white. 'lilo to Ko, ' ........2 .‘.'.‘l.“'i ill’.‘.° 37°.. ..,..

Ol I I (I UI* M

No. il winter, per car lot, gill?" ,°

__ No. I winter, per car lg, 3,31,

‘ No, I fdprlng wheat. . No, 8 spring wheat. 0 JI. less (According to Freighte Outline). No. 8. nominal. . lsrllv _tN_¢_w Cwaaggcgrdlns to Fnlsms _ alanine. 01 to thus. lilskwllelt (Acc°l:_l_n¥ to Frelsms Out.

e .

Buckwh` mmsé ,(A:?otF_d__&:s to relslm outside). 'wnr 'Efi:l%y°,'z1°;.':§'.' (T°""'°" Debris Fleur la mas. rronpe slug.

1 _ s . ‘

O Mil

';&‘Y__E__51g_:E:_,}_% m.'.'s loat-

` Frolshtl. ‘shes lxglririsl.

Bran. per ton. 881.15. Shorts, per ton, $42.25.

- Hly (Track. Toronto);

. 1 per ton. 811 to ns.

stuod..o_::__i_on_i__§1a__xo___$2o. ___ '

~ IC , UNI s -(br lets. ver (ton. os to ago.)

inn wharf:-'§T»°r;f '§`;l'sF"` sung

I - i . DOI*

. s sm-ins. au

N2 s soon. ills ’°'h:s“§2f|‘ '

_- ` g

el.

= ts-No . seo d sv sung,

yr-Annual-eTi§:€rm` u "I

1 . ls.

Y-Timothy. 8;!! °:Sm¥z; 31- -ms. ed and clover, no go sag 9,, gt LIVERPOOL MARKETS. l@lv»%l. oct. 11.-Bohr, mrs :asia

--rk. prime mesa. western, gps,

-_ . short one 14 to is lbs., _

Cllmborhnd cut. iw to H1 las..

hols .14 _ _ ' dmumamw ie los 5 itos

' ll . li . .

100|: xo.. heavy, 8810 I3 lbs.. lu ' short olosr sodas. is to zo ins., 151|.

53101114011. lcllare, ll to 18 lbs., 1 ...l..f".w.":.'.:..::f.°“.1';i.:“i'.°.':’°'~ 1"'-"“= rd box; lm :_ s ‘mlffl

_ _ w. Australian in London

;ntine spirits, 125|. ‘ ".‘

__ n, common, Ms 3|-1, _

___l_;_.

mamnrrs

' WIITNIPEG LIVE HECK;

lllnlpes' Oct. ll. ts at k

B _ -Bbw slab Yardag u.ttle,‘=_0.d

r stssll. S3 to |ls;_heifsrs, Ill)

.16"to. $9-50: hulls. ti to 1.11-

3% to 69: stoohors and-xofdorsf

l0.60: veal' calves 05 to dll: loam. is to sudo.- eleots, 308.50; saws and heav. 0710 $14- : stars, $1150; llgam

nssmsuswamuvnsmoix.

°£3_t_”r3_du5io. yon. n._os_tuo-an no "I-Becoirtl. 500: 51 bisher: if to -Hell-ll l . : - ~.r.‘.:°:.:.:=."..-.._“' ....'°"l‘..' i... ...A ' ..- Ilsll-is_;=.°_;_: la-mia. no ig s'ims;'_ news . ‘ _ CHICAGO Uvlil Block.

cu&l‘0 0 l. 10.--H08!-Roos .

Hai-lion gunned mon; to iobmlfi llgi-,

dull, loo to 25:: lower on

bhuézshfa-9. S1l__}§_'¢o’_s.i%,&o§°li&_ #71-so' ro' sl'?.°»in.' root is out '

t-Receinw. 10.000. :su-uet_~ua~ 0o to 75o lower than Th

cattle. good. choice and prime, 9.35: common and medium its 2 butcher stock, cows and e still. 5: eannexa and cutters, $25.# _ 1 stockers and feeders, good,

and fancy, l1s.|.6 to ,ULIB

r. common and medium S to ll calves, good and choice# lit!! ; western range beef steers, 818.15 to : coke and heliers. $8 to 312.50. ~ een; sce|pts_ 15.000. Fat classes

mfra steady* good feeding steady:

rs and breeding ewes dull and lower;

hoico and prime. Sl5.75 to $10.25;

and good, 813.76 to $15.75: GNU.

¢|~ll,3‘s;wel,°dcholce land pls*

. ; m um an good

5; onlin, use to rl. ’

li ;~§_ v i- .gi-img

...éé

“S §Eo'

, “ Only 4,000 Escaped.

LONDON. Oct. 12.-A supplemen-

#sry oilleial War Oillce report regard- ing Byrisa operations reads: _ _ "Prisoners taken by the Egybytisa eapeditionary force, exclusive of #help taken by the Arabs, have risen tounors than 75,000. li is ostlmstod

w, of the entire strength of the

Kish fourth, seventh and eighth

llllllss not more than 17,000 have heaped, this llgure including 4,000

' _-"lilly-of the prisoners captured Vote in a lsmentable state of ex- h_l\l.stlon. They are receiving such troatment and attention as is poe- lllle.” -

Exit War Chiefs. AHBTIRDAI, Oct. 13.--Lt.-Gen.

jlohsneh, who recently was spoken of as»_t.se siiesessor of don. von stein. Mondeo! he German War Ministry. he been appointed to that post, so- cor¢li_ng_-to a despatch resolved here

‘Berlla._

~ mania. of Berlin, fcreshadows

'elective rises.

onoftwol Ger-

l.'f.::' c"r':.*a..*“'.‘:

o e 8090 n en

imdb as llnister of War. ~ 1 nevesepsn probally, refers to Don. Ludendorl and Field krshelwen Blldeallurs. .vhs re-

~mtiy nsvelsst iaueset their popu-

ty lndsrmeny. \

i 1 a¢}ism¢`o¢ nmisson.

oliimlvs Oct. 18.-_-A ‘grave move-

ment or sirlt leivepsx-ees at oes- ltantinopis ol such magnitude that

'1 l-till .. , _:.°'. _.gp-ir.-.~:‘.:::.i~‘..~.s=u

.cial-lay-llaltlis. ms in 'gms ng.

_ , Olhtllo Railway tillnnsei-

' . "'*'*-* . plligzalliheld e sitting :tuB`ral1tford

llllportant Evellfs Which Hay; 'with'-rB`s'l-1’d to,eon_servation of the Occurred During the Week. _:1v?s¥?211:f\r::o§u:v.i\m';:i° deTeli‘:io:.m”

struck by an auto driven by c.

T\1°__::\sy Wor'id's lsppgnlsgg an, 'gall il:_:illrg_nl in tr; hesd.t £-

y oogpuoq _ °_ -Year-o _son o .

had ,M AJ. ?:”“°° a. arg-shell, oi: si. phones. ,h fi* 'rheladvasplorlnslnthd _ ° _ . _ 0! 0" Pesos-s suest. _

l0|ll|`|\O\l.l"l_lfs,|0y-q||¢, , mx!

_ morspny, _ .Wilton wssosoid or sunimhon

_ pto___ail>ori roman. mast zom, mqgtiz soldier son psld 1. visit zo was ki ed in _ _ -

mont. a. sf°N::rT;i§:gt,`.,2¢°bh,,_ _ and T. Grouohn, or

ham, wg; k_u|e,{m muon ba Sem 27 Ki _eller both died inhide of twenty- H The dglgss and oil. wsrehouse of '°'.§`_E%'-“;§F Wh "nzlim k

aran '__c[1n _‘f __.___,l1 o vernm mae

edgy 11|-sro' mn W" dum’ .a hrgzcéghépmeut t.hut__ou§'ll1 the Cana-

issl... Las _ ‘ 111811 tiller. emenoverseas.

round degdyin Eognhégapgszoitswgs _~7°lll1 _Hw11on._ 92 years old. died you; of asm ;t_l;_l:dh_i:nse t_n?_lndsor. Slnc¢;q188l

Hog chow;-9, _gs repo -d 't be 0 een n' eemploy of lram

lillllilg l;_ak_}_l_l_g its appearratsce' ligand ._._°°___“we d y aroun . . _ _leon - a s re- gne, |,e,,,¢°,',‘f,'§' ,,n-mm ,_ mm cently, tho. British nruilory hurled

°V°l` I 11101101. Fornle minors will re- m°r°- m‘n-wan" “Nu °' 'hem °' 4" turn to work to-day _ “N3” '39 °“

The two m°`o‘on`system ls to be

T110 chief of the German ` lic in i V ~ . .»

Warsaw, pound, hu been Dfhote by illllllnratell. in connection with the an unidentified" person. ' ' ‘ Km3“°F nf? d°9ll'Ull°11¢. bckillilills A Polish Legion, ooinposodni-‘diy ~““_°_l'-'ll' 1'! 91 D°°°ll1l1°l‘-

of American Poles, was yesterday re- -. 5-- s.l°"°l1l°l1. 9! U19 L°l14l0l1_N°l'- celved into the French army. "3" °°u°l°» W9". tm 9"m°1P“| °P°“' ' R"_ Wm L w°_°_d_ “nor of me er___st the annlnl _Brant County

Ngwmuggp _1¢m,,,dw___Chm.¢5_ Med Institute, held at Brant. suddenly from a stroke of `aral s. '

A 'third death has occurrgd lnyzlle L°'d sh5u‘N“‘-’9°7h‘5r°u"°“ “`°m'

gmagm, cam,” N|“,_m_ from mum the presidency of the Canadian Pact-l env.. Pte. Gillespie, of Stratford, is 5° Rulny- H-T- E- W- B°°“Y» *h°` the victim. _?_‘_"tte";¢;'Pf;l:ml°nEi;:;k°0 U19 °m'~l°

Barney Belcourt has been sentenc- °“ Y ' m' 9-

ed to be hwgm It Ream, Jan fm. L. Weiner, a Toronto baker, has the murder of Mrs. Edward Beatty, had M' “°°_n9° " 5 bread bn” un' new The0d°,.e_ celled by the Canadian Food Board.

R97- D12 BNHS. book steward of Tm” 5k`°‘s"° _.W9 W." *°k°“_ “n M' tho morhodioi soon Room, Toronto, °°“l““°f ° °°°°“4 °l°l1°° °°mml“°'l| hos handed in his resignation. no is W "\Q~!¢'1Sl l¢8“1W°l1°- 32 yen, of qi Two young Leamington men, Ed-

Brig.-Gen. C. A. Doyen, commas- "Va B°'“°"'° “mi Wm* Edmund*

dont of the marine corps camp at w°r° “"“5”°d in w‘”d‘°r Wu” Quant,w_ vs" _died there, Sund” court charged with stealing an auto night of mg,,¢n“_ _ from Forrest. Wlgle of Ruthven, two

Orders have been issued from the mmnha °5°' They °“’l"m°d ' ‘Mt

Militia Department authorising the th” Md "ke" the °“" '° °°m° W

formation of a third tank battali winds" t° and W°'k' for service °ve,.se”_ °n Alleged to be a slacker, Horace

The London 1 Like Eng Ram” Corbett, 26 years old, of Chatham,

& Transportation Co. will cease tg "B wmed °'°" "° me mmwry °'“` operate-at ,_ _"ry.e“1y date_and_ the _t_hor|tl_es. The arrest resulted from _ _work of scrappi`ng'the road will coin- i”f°ri'""“°“ 3"” “Y Pte' Selby' "h° mane-9 immedmtell recently returned to Windsor to find

his wife had lied with Corbett, tak-

WEDNESDAY- ‘ ing with hor, it is nudged, $2,000 or

The Toronto Street Railway Co. ls his m°“°Y~

asking for the right to raise the SATURDAY. fares. John G. Watson, president of the

Rev. Nell Campbell, of Oro, was John Watson Manufacturing Co., died

elected Moderator of the Presbyterian ill ASH' Yesterday after a. short illness. Synod of Toronto and Kingston, Windham Centre Fair gate re- meeting in Toronto. _ I _ ceiilts were the _largest taken in by

Dr. Monro, or Smithville, appeared the society for more the-I1 lllty vein-

before Magistrate Campbell on a Over thirty deaths from lniluenxs

charge of haying liquor. other than or pneumonia were reported to the on his (own prlva e property. He was City' `Clsrk's ollice, Toronto, yester- assesssd $222. . day.

Word has been recei-ved of the` Mir. J. T. Simmons. s. Tillsonburg

death by accident in Detroit ot,Her- farmer, received information that his man Rowe, son of Wm. Rowe; Wood- son. Wilfrid, had died of appendicltis stock. He moved to Detroit about in France. two years ago. Mr. Charles Norris, one of Bol-

The new Canadian victory loan ton's oldest residents, died there in

was launched. The minimum amount his 87th year. His wife Dredeoellifld asked is $800,000,000. The rate of llllil four Yell!! 8.50- interest will be 5% per cent. per The Anglican Church has under- annual, free from all taxation, taken lb raise ll qlllrtcr OI 8. lhillioll \ Harry Boosey. sou oi J. M._sossey, dolls-rs by askin: Sunday schools to barber, of Bt. Cathm-lnes, died Mon- ll1l1'0Yll1l8 V10!!-11'? B011'-18. dsy from Spa.nish.iniiuensa at Camp Martha Cl-mDb°l1.,N0rlh Bev. will Sherman, Ohio, where he was in apply to Parliament next session for training with United _States troops, a divorce from her husband, Henry

Mayor Church of Toronto has ask- James Campbell, Toronto.

sd the Minister of Militia to have the Pte. A. B. Aitken, son of Fire Chief men or the sihei-inn. Expedition ro- Aitken. of London. OHL. was killed ,moved from _ Niagara to' Toronto, in action on Sept. 27. A brother. Cpl. 'where they om he-properly housed. I-Ierinsn Aitken. was killed in lhy.

Mrs. Delina Bidard ls _in Napanee 1017., _

Jail on s charge'_of murder. She is 'A proclamation will shortly ,I-1° 18' accused of throwing her illegitimate sued, it is expected, calling all friend- ilvo months" old ohild into the river ly aliens except Americans. Within to get rid of it, aeshe could not keep the Dominion. to register for mill- her job and look after it. lal;_y’__scgi°c- __ F __ must

e cow, which _he was rivl _ e sran or In °"

tooqlgla lit of frensy and atteckgl Rel: has decre:¥that British and French bon Higgs, an Ailss Grills farmer. 0°ll1l1101'018l l1l‘°P°"|°°» 11913 ill *full* yesterday snd`go'l-ed him into s sthte during hostilities, must be returned of uuconsciousness. He was found on to the owners- the road by his young son. His re- Bert Miller, u Toronto youth, was eovery is expected. struck down and fatally injured by

Arthur Comley was sentenced at an autoxnobile last night. He had

Stratford to._elght months, andl Geo. been on a visit to his mother, who is Roovoo to six months, in tho, ontario conllned _to_ s hospital- .Reformatory on a charge, to which A _scholarship hasbecn founded they pleaded ,guilt"y. _of assaulting by the executors of the late Henry ond whois; xorohdw suulutvoek. M- Horsey- °¢ Ottawa- st Qileflltg and robbing a Chinese restaurant in University, in memory of l-he ld. _ravntocm lu adggqw nm _ggggivgq .Erie Horsey May, who died of woun

the customery_l_ndet:;mlx;_a°t.e__:e{l_:e1_l_c: ill F`1‘¢ll°°- __

‘of not more sn o .- -

Ontario Reformstory, _ MMV W Q““?

LONDON Dc! 12 ---Au.sh'la-H\lll-

‘ THURSDAY. ' ' '

and._'.l‘ ke h v informed Ger-

. Thi’ l1°P“\*'-‘°“ °‘ Wann", I' sturdy that t§ey}wll‘l :ccept President 9,876, an increase of 1,051 for the wnmm.. neue ,enum wcm.d|“‘ to a nerrh alll t od comhrdl tho “°°’”°h ‘° "'° c“"""' Nm" 'mm

0 H “D 111' » A terdam.

Csmdi:M___b°1l1l 01° 0"? "°°P° *° n?r-in-soy hu made iwionniio pesos olltcl' 1 0 17-__ __ , - _~ ‘proposal oPreaident ilson accord' . ‘“°“.'::::: ;::::.l:2‘:‘.‘..‘Pz trawl: '-1- 1° -we umes A mor was rc on o

in a plalgt ii__earHNi;_g_l;rsBI":1lI;_n ___ .Psy-|s‘“1'3ouq\e yssierdsy aftei_-_:gosh

Rev. . . O . --._ ' ht() up bqend _r-

ducted as rector-01 Bt. 'Plaines' All- :dl 'iimif mg Qymmgn glicsn Church st..-St. Oath nes. ¢¢~|{,“'Nm¢z1- yu.” ‘gg-four Wm", {:hn___Sl¢l;l~:: 11:;“'°§::f:_°n*'*;‘; 'rumah socdi-mos worg_ln _gognind

lea ers D 0 0 dth in htra ng em. band. signs v°°"'_;'l_:§‘::_P'g‘r"£he .nwA§if1‘lzyi?ro;.°oo¢. 1|.;-_}>ro:oo-

I-411' °‘"‘°- _ is. _mac _on he vs_-1‘l_° 'lf PY-

peace letters, now declares that war :en~°§§_a»_~m?_Lbnf°n dafatghggl md must continue until Allies are vis- mfgnn fwéued _fn wumumn ¢°. torleus. V ' day. liste -Department dllicials ex-

The A1110! 1”°P°l'¢ 1111"" °*""“'°d preesed‘ deep interest in the rellortcll 11,000 orllvsw “'10 20° 1"” °“’° move by tho 'rumah cove.-nmoni, llll 01° Ufli- “Y °f “W 3*' Q“°““° but stated positively that no pro-

"hlt&.lc- DW N ‘_ Inxmm. at pcsals had reached 010111-

. _ ‘ , '

Chuxhill, has received s call to th; ne", Enthqmke shun

gulls: °*“"°" °‘ ‘§‘“‘°""°‘° " vwrolua. s.c., ooi. 12.-r. N. l'°° U- lliso f th Obse tory at Goll- llack Sud. I S¥\';;§0?°::|ld“i‘a:is:: we l~iNl°reD0:ts thlrtubeslnnilll at

Nll1l“°°- '" and H h d mg 7.15 o’ciock yesterday morning and fill' h°"""°¥ '"3"' ° . lasting for live hours severe earth-

peun_ils__:»_:i_h1;‘pDr_:_\:::_:_:. hu jumped 'quake shocks were recon-deil;_ou°th_e

Wil fl h ttbe station. e -

sane; R. _u_.f_§:¢»_: °°f.t‘{‘n‘_’{f,,§"‘,'{ :§'ilT»°fl§°di:moo oi a.1oo mud..

N00; If _° _ _ .

°~3f."."g$t’°' Sandman a"_°°' ‘M of Germans lhst Leaving Coast. `

F°{-,,', 'o..i..-si cosmos. or tho -.,o1~moN.oo¢. 12.-Loon Allied Methodist Church has scolded to 1-s__ngnnsisss.noes show that the Ger-l

!_w_“_ _ _ » nu., me ,um of 0.000.000 for mil- nga ham notginlg _nina ln_i_lit:_:'y 1:;

'nll $011011* Ilsd; ltsfias@flll .ibn purposes. The llllll °°"\" ‘ 'fl ‘th 5° uh°,,°“|;_ Th, qgp. sr would give him one he would

ltilsmis mn lr. .om rlsnlcs

Designers Exploiting Fresh Fashions by Use oi Discarded Materials.

no ourslos HELP nscesslnv

_GailM|‘y No Longer Must Ask What Il the Fashion, but ls Enabled to Pro-

` duos Sufficient to Supply

the Demand.

New York.--Paris is never handi-

capped in creating fashions by the actions of other designers. Thst is why she is powerful. ' America has al- ways lllIcted_ under this handicap be- cause she has followed Paris, asserts a prominent fashion nuihorlty. She has never been inclined to risk the exploitation of fabrics, fashions and coloringa that were not sponsored by the mother _of fashions.

It ls said ot us that we acknowledge

the best in every nation and bring it to our shores. We know the best in every department of urt, science and llteiihlre. If we ure compelled to put our knowledge to practical use, we at least have the best to go on. We are not ignorant.

The _time has come for this experi-

ment, as we all know, and-the observer

thinks that a few medals of honor sltoul be distributed to those who have gone “over the top" in designing clothes in this country. It took great commercial courage and it required a sound knowledge of the American public. _

what Frdnoo old Amoi-los oo". 'Here are two anecdotes which sc- cantnate the point. They happened a dosen years apart. Mme. Paquin saw several bolts of checked silk in a man- \lfacturer's hands. Neither the weave, the coloring nor the design was in fashion, to quote her own phrase. The manufacturer complained that he had ‘no call for this quantity of material and that he would sell it for about s franc and `a half s yard. Mme. Pn- quin took it all, went to her salons on the Rue de is Paix, turned the cheap check silk into an alluring frock of her own design, and then wore it at '.l‘rcuville-by-the-Sea. She made the frock, the design. the color and the fabric fashionable. Everyone wanted -to-wear--wht she wore. She sold

every inch of the material at n price

that brought her unmeasnred profit on the transaction.

Last month sn American designer

was looking over the stock of s lace

. |

Hsrs's a blue ssrpe osat split up the

sack se make commonplace blue serpe less inslqnlfioant. There ls a long eulrsse of colored embroidery on blue tricot, and the oeat is slashed to s deep V bsok and front to display the ylvld undergsrment.

i rtsr. ‘4'Nothlng new,” said the

. mpg importer. _“Here I am held up with

'ghost nity Spanish lace _scarfs which I bought at a venture, thinking I could distribute them in the trade ln Amer ies, but no one took them. The one answer was that they are not in fashion." '

The designer said that if the im-

lssrilssi hyevietersmiallsl- erlodoisvsyesrs ll I ° "1 ‘ M 1|

gr* . D °‘“"| .tuna l3ol:h:recm;lP:llm as .h:;bo::'J`aQt:2dmal`l'a°° t "ltr oitllitgr :c::f:,noaw:dndl‘t)i‘:>n t:l.at

, . ~-_._ . .

_ -, ....,.,».'

. :ldv _, __ .__,___,_,.\', _»_..._4,_._ __ _ ____T.__ *Gills - - _ _ _ _ ~ ._ _,_.._-_ _ _IL ___ ______ _ _

'me bargain was closed. The gown

was designed. It sold immediately. It was copied so fast that the other 49 scsrfs melted sway like flakes of soap in hot water. Spanish lace was oifered as a first fashion.

Thai: is a good example of the

change that has come over the Ameri~ cun merchant und the American de- signer. We no longer have to ask what ill the fashion, but sro probably enabled to make the fashion for our uwn continent.

Management of Black Taffeta.

It is easy to realize that tsifetahss

:ome into a ilrst summer fashion, al- though the popular mind does not re- gard it as one of the lovely weaves'

ill ___ _

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One of the new black tsffeta gowns

that is far from commonplace. The skirt is a series of small ruflles edged _with white sllk cord and cut In peg-top fashion. The elim bodice is mounted on s yoke of tsffeta braided with white cord, and the short sleeves are cut In one with the yoke. There is a pink rose with green leaves at the waist, and there are green shoes and stockings.

of the world, because it is plentiful. There is no trouble about getting all the taifeta one wgnts. and it is best that we model our wardrobes for the near future on the materials that can be bought in this country in suiilcieni quantity to correspond to our needs.

Much can be done with this mate-

risl that will result in a gown out of the ordinary and conspicuous for :harm nnd clevci-ness. If you could have seen u woiuiln who clune into a restaurant for dinner wearing u cer- tain black tuffeta gown, you would have been convinced in the twinkling of an eye 'that the fabric matters noth- ing if the designer has cleverness.

The skirt was made of narrow

:uflles that extended from waist to ankles, each rutile edged with u white silk cord. The hem wus excessively narrow. The foundation for these ruilles fitted the figure like a sheath There was a bodice, straight and sim- ple, and the major part of it was u yoke with short sleeves which' was braided with white cord in s fantastic design. At the side of the waist was s deep pink satin rose with green vei- vet leaves. The slippers and sbosk- lugs were green. There was nothing de-more about this black taffeta gown. Treat Blue Berge ln Various Ways. Blue serge is ii fabric that will al-

ways be with us, us fur us the muuu- facturers and the wsr board can look ahead.

It is usually midnight blue, and,

given s few ynrds of it in this color, the designers do not want to sit down -md turn ii out into insignificant frocks and inconspicuous suits.

A woman who crime to u "defense"

luncheon one duy wore a blue serge gown that was the product of a clever designer and it surely turned our ideas about suits topsy-turvy.

The coat was spilt up the back as

well as the front. It wus worn over il long culrass blouse, the kind that gains in importance every day. The blouse was made of n richly embroid- ered tricot in blue, black nnd dashes of dull red. It diil not cling tightly to the figure, but outlined it more than usual. Over it hung the loose blue serge cost, opening in a deep V in the middle of the front and the bluck. It was closed at the neckline and had s collar of the surge. There was s loose belt of the insterlnl, and the skirt was exceedingly narrow nnd short.

By the way, it is wise for any wom-

an who orders a new suit today to ses that the skirt has a sizeable hem, for the new order to the shoemakers. given by the government, which de~ mands low shoes for the duration ol the war. may change the skirt length

I doubt lt. The length may bl

changed, but it will not be because ol the low shoes, for galters. 'which are made of fabric, may be as high as desired, and women prefer them to high boots.

We may also adopt the French fash-

ion of wearing serviceable Oxford ties with straight heels and rounded toes The bootlsakars say they have more orders for these today than ever. With such shoestho avenge woman doe! not care whether her skirt is eight or ten inches from the ground, unless she is given to sdlerlng from exposed snkles.' ' -' ‘ ' (copyright, itll. 'sr the stoolule Itewmo

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considerable comment has been

made over the attractive appearance of this wrap. Vivid amethyst and Australian rsccoen combine to make this long-waisted evening or afternoon garment.

BUTTONS FROM NECK T0 HEEL

Closing Gown Down Back an ldss Ors- ated by Designer Aided by Smart Woman.

Primitive drapiug is in high fashion.

And right against lt, sitting in the same room with it and exploiting it- self quite ns proudly and successfully. snys a fashion correspondent, will be n gown that is fastened with bone buttons from the naps of the neck to the turn of the heel.

It is pure perverseness to employ a

line of buttons down the back of n l’rock_ The entire world of. fashion was stimulating itself to the utmost to provide new wuys with ancient ideas. It was on thc cards that we would drape ourselves in different ways. Then some designer. aided by a smart woman, mnde n tight bodice to s frock, buttoned ull the way down the back, and added a Japanese bow st the wulstlinc.

What was the result? Huge bows

nnd tight bodices, smoothly pulled across the bust nnd sinking in over the diaphragm, became an exalted fashion.

Perhaps it was panic, and not per-

verseness, that created this gown. It takes u skillful hand to wrap material around the body in a graceful manner, und we have not the art of the primi- tives. A modest woman has s right to rlemnnd that this drapery be well put together before she appears in it in public, to dance, to dino or to walk. The Japanese womuu cun wind her sarong ilhout her hips, :ind other an- cient races can tie invisible knots in material to keep it modestly in place, but we are used to hooks and eyes, buckles and buttons, and we are s bit afraid to go abroad in something that depends upon our skill in tying knots to keep us from being naked and ashamed.

HERE’S A NOVEL SLEEVE IDEA

Clever Girl Offers Valuable luggee-

tlons for the Woman Who Makes ~

Her Own Clothes.

Are you decided on the sleeve of

your new frock? p Of course. yon are undecided. Everyone is when it comes to sleeves; because they are such td* ribly important things. As a mattsl' of fact. most of the dress interest and individuality. center shnut the sleeve. One clover girl offers this suggestion:

Make the conventional not-toe-loose

fir not-too-tight elbow-lmgth sleeves. Now cut from the same material, or contrasting, should you prefer, two squares. A "hole" in the middle of each provides if hand entrance. After that you tack escb corner of the square to the sleeve proper, and you have achieved enviable ellie. Other awfully clever ideas can grow from this one.

For instance, you are making a tunic

blor' 9 of two colors of chiion or geor- gette. In that case you will use the two colors on your two-piece sleeve.

Also fetching trimming will

itself. What _do yon_eay to & the corners back with little glass buh tons, or iluishing off with two slsndt' tsmls fore and aft of the arm!

On your lingzdrmaynltlt

tnattilofoor

a border ofdl i

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as it

'niccoou Porutin rms vein ~_a,,,,_.s. M,” 1851;.

_ \lmp|lcl\¥'BllonId Rule lvdt 'ill _lm

-_ ments for “Drses.Up" Occasiona- __A\N!f.!!fl1\. Economy lleoslary. 1“0f_"d~ll-op" °¢mionsl.tbe sms :Y£°rc`e__u_lre two orumore sits of Ill- _ erwesr, n so-e cersqsnd-

:gl-l _:_lwuld- bo.ssnp||..llleds` ie

7°~ 9 _ ”‘*U“¥~. _lslldllllll-' '1`“""l1l11¢'_ my be homemade

edgings, feather sutm _rich-seek braid or.-one-of~thr 'o'-lamps; or emo: exists. be ‘lf Whit! and mono ot-spsllaorssh erdlne in_,_the severe: on ecs_ styles, or of muslin l_n a softer showing gathers and frills.

The “dress-lip" Deeds of the boy cl

seven and over are fully mot by a two- plece suit _of Canadian twecd, with |.\'at or cap to match. Shirt wallll ol' shirts of striped mndrss are worn with his Suit The younger bore “Snnds»y"snit can be u shirt-waist one, tI|s= panti- l00i1B. which buttonto the. wlllt, be- ing made of eithfr Wll_l_l_lbU material; or serge. He wlllneed east.

Wartime ecmiomy will sllg'i&t that

as many ss possible of these garnlenh be made from.socond-hanllmaterlal.

;l`h¢;=__indl_i;pensable :_weatsrcsat,may he us one from a lscssded In-Q one by redying and cnttingxlr oil. Boys' shirt walets may be made mem the best parts of iaen's discarded shirts, whlchllo “WMU I 01501 material. A womsn‘s cloth. skirt will make knickers for the qlsil boy Q bloomers or skirt for the girl.

In buying new materials avoid loose

colors. Lavenders, greens and blues cannot be relied upon.

FROCKS FUR LITTLE MISSES

Old-Fashioned Callco and Orohrlm is | Being Used to Good Adllsn&

for Olrls'.Appar¢l.

Frocks and the most tie aprons for little gir shown inthe shops devslopsd in ell- tnshloned calico and flowered me- tonne. Dresses for the older genus- tion were shown in alice some time ago. but it seems a msbsrial which is particularly well salted to the -all girl because of its strength and is brilliant colors in which it appears.

One dress, for emsm

in bright yellow

round 'neck is

and finished several of w the side of

other trim ' _

- An odd in s deep wllite. It

tie white repp

with the ealioo, U

old~fssblonsd ladies

pllqusd on.

The figured voll

seller at present a

tlful models in

in for a great deal of

The newest thing shown ric is u frock for s very lt is of white organdie wi

round collar and turned of the some material in la feather stitched in royal

tied with perky little

ribbon-Nugent’s.

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